Soulpatch's 150 SC build

soulpatch said:
The slideouts have no signs of decay at this point after a year in use. I didnt want the ATI on top of the canopy for multiple reasons but athestics and the opening would cut the spread of light were my chief concerns.
Click to expand...

thanks for the update.
I went with the SCA sumps, I really like them because they are taller, I rearrange a few partitions fro my setup, Ill have a build thread soon.
On a side note Steve is great to work with and Im lucky enough to live close to his warehouse. FYI he sells pool tables also:eek1:
 
Yeah I am not a fan of their sumps. Both the height and overall look wouldnt work for me.

They are nice sumps but dont fit my needs.
 
Soulpatch so would you recommend not getting the PNP package if your getting one the tanks? Or is it a good starting point and then you can slowly upgrade/replace easier? I have been debating on this for a while.
 
That comes down to personal preference honestly. Some just want a set it and forget system but if you are planning to swap items out or add things then I wouldn't go PNP personally.

The sump eats up 90% of the stand leaving little room for other gear like ATO, reactors, calcium reactor, and more. The cost is a concern though as Steve has a decent skimmer that MANY are happy with. Most replace the return pump though so factor that in.

Before his normal discount the site is showing 2500 for PNP 150 with wood stand like I have.

You figure I paid roughly 1700 for the tank and wood stand. That left me 800 for the gear I used instead. My custom sump was 550, pump was another 200, and skimmer (usd mind you) was another 200. You can get new aquamaxx skimmers and such for 300 or buy the one through Steve for around 200 I believe. So just for my own gear and the tank/stand combo I am at 2650.

If you figure he gives a small discount on the PNP setup as he is akin to do you can figure out if the difference is worth it. For the "extra" 150 I spent it sure as heck was. No matter what you are going to use up about 40+" of the stand for a sump that can handle the tank so you have about 16" for other gear if you go my route. Going the PNP you have about 4" of stand space to use around the sump and since it is so tall you are limited on things to hang like reactors and such.
 
So based on what your saying is to start with the pnp setup and then upgrade as time goes on and sell off or hold as spare components what I'm not going to use. I guess I need to get in touch with Steve and talk with him. Thanks again for the answer.

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No I was saying the other way to simply get your own components as opposed to the PNP. Perhaps their skimmer but I dont like their sump and given its size and layout you are unlikely to find another buyer. Sump is not something I keep around as a spare.

I have a couple 20g and a 40 g tank for QT than could be swapped in in an emergency I guess.
 
I got the sump for the 120g, so its shorter and gave me some room inside.
I wouldnt do PNP either, the return pumps are noisy.
But Steve will take out anything you dont want and adjust the price.

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Yes i was reading that steve is good with doing that. I was also thinking i would have the holes drilled for the synergy overflow as well. My understanding is that is almost a must.

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I would not get the tank today without drilling it for returns and a synergy overflow. I had given him the templates for the synergy but couldnt wait for him to get the drill bits and such to make my tank.

I am also torn as to whether I would go thicker glass and not have the eurobrace as well. I think I would want just a brace in each corner (small triangle of glass) so I could rest a screen cover on but otherwise I would want no bracing I think. I do use my bracing to put stuff on as I am in the tank but I could easily deal without that by hanging a speciman cup or something.
 
I am anticipating building a slide out myself the more I looked at it last night after the gym. I have roughly 17 inches from the wall tot he tank which is more than enough for a small custom cabinet to be made. I also already have the sliders I had used to mount it to the stand so it would slide out then flip to the side. So I could leave it "out" all the time and when i need in the closet it can slide behind the stand and out of the way.

Now I have to see how crazy I want to get with it and I need some time to design. I am thinking flat extension cables to have a clean look, hide wiring behind false panel and organized with ties and same slot system I have now. Acrylic windows with accent lighting potentially...

I will have to sit around with a few good cigars and think it over. Nothing is likely to happen in the short term though with the exception of putting the ATO container outside the stand so I can fit the calcium reactor (though I could also put the calcium reactor outside for now as well I guess...)
 
I got the parts needed for the calcium reactor but still need to fill up my CO2 tank. Oddly even though I ordered on Wednesday everything arrived today which is much faster then I thought.

I was going to get CO2 filled on Monday as I was planning on working from home since the daughter was going to get ear tubes put in. That surgery got pushed so now I need to make time to get the CO2 tank filled.


More importantly I need to make the decision on moving the electronics out of the tank or the ATO container. One or the other needs to come out. I am leaning on electronics to a slide out but it would be MUCH easier to throw the ATO outside. Ugh decisions decisions....and more importantly time....
 
MDF, hinges, spraypaint, and such bought to do a hidden slide out cabinet for the apex gear. Now I just to to figure out how I want it built and organized and how I want to reroute all of the electrical...
 
some more fish have been ordered (well will be tomorrow via my LFS). I have some barlet Anthias and a foxface coming in. I need 1 or 2 more small fish after this such as a tail spot again and perhaps my harlequin tusk again if I decide to try that again.

I just need time to get my CO2 tank filled and this "cabinet" designed and built.
 
soulpatch said:
some more fish have been ordered (well will be tomorrow via my LFS). I have some barlet Anthias and a foxface coming in. I need 1 or 2 more small fish after this such as a tail spot again and perhaps my harlequin tusk again if I decide to try that again.

I just need time to get my CO2 tank filled and this "cabinet" designed and built.
Click to expand...



Looking forward to your cabinet design, I might need to appropriate some ideas as I am moving all my electrical into its own space next month and soon after adding an apex.


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Farmreefer said:
Looking forward to your cabinet design, I might need to appropriate some ideas as I am moving all my electrical into its own space next month and soon after adding an apex.


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Click to expand...

still trying to work it out. I will use the hinged slider I have so it can pull out and "flip" onto the side of the tank and when not needed will flip back and slide behind the stand. I think it will stay behind the stand most of the time as I do not mess with any of the controllers for the couple of pumps that have them (jabeo for skimmer and my pp8s) so no need to leave it out.

thinking of a cabinet with a top angled piece that the controllers are on so I can mess with them easily if needed. That will be hinged and the plugs and powerbars will reside inside on a false board with the wires going through grommets and orangized on back of panel.

I dont want it to be anything super complicated but something merely to get the electronics out of the way and in such a way that swapping things in/out is easier then it is now.
 
soulpatch said:
still trying to work it out. I will use the hinged slider I have so it can pull out and "flip" onto the side of the tank and when not needed will flip back and slide behind the stand. I think it will stay behind the stand most of the time as I do not mess with any of the controllers for the couple of pumps that have them (jabeo for skimmer and my pp8s) so no need to leave it out.



thinking of a cabinet with a top angled piece that the controllers are on so I can mess with them easily if needed. That will be hinged and the plugs and powerbars will reside inside on a false board with the wires going through grommets and orangized on back of panel.



I dont want it to be anything super complicated but something merely to get the electronics out of the way and in such a way that swapping things in/out is easier then it is now.
Click to expand...



The hinged slider is an interesting idea. I have to operate with the "pretty piece of furniture " approved by my bride to sit next to the tank in the living room.
c0a3041e2f4c2bd0bb29ef1bfbf662dc.png

Organization of the cords is also key on my list.


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I am guessing that the back to that is the cheap cardboard which is actually a good thing potentially as I wouldnt use it at all since you can stabilize the cabinet with some l brackets instead and have good access... If I were to use that I would:

Route an opening on the door and recess a Fire tablet for control of the apex.
Have the shelf if any in the middle and get some MDF from HD or such to build false back walls.
All equipment controllers mounted to the top false wall with cord grommets to pass through wires. A hole on the back of the shelf to pass to bottom area.
Fake wall on bottom to hold EB8s. 2 grommets around them to feed wires. https://smile.amazon.com/UU-BUY-Bla...8&qid=1485196584&sr=8-2&keywords=cord+grommet
On back of false walls use finger rail to organize the wires
Have a neoprene cord sleve for the wires back into the tank area similar to this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product...act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2N7NRZ9X3BHHN

For the plus I would also have them all plugged in behind the false wall and use something like this to plug in for uniformity: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product...act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3ACUPJ4C2HX16

And above all else label things on the EB8 and on the cords so no matter which side you are working on you will know what you are doing.

You could hinge the false walls as well for easier access
 
soulpatch said:
I am guessing that the back to that is the cheap cardboard which is actually a good thing potentially as I wouldnt use it at all since you can stabilize the cabinet with some l brackets instead and have good access... If I were to use that I would:

Route an opening on the door and recess a Fire tablet for control of the apex.
Have the shelf if any in the middle and get some MDF from HD or such to build false back walls.
All equipment controllers mounted to the top false wall with cord grommets to pass through wires. A hole on the back of the shelf to pass to bottom area.
Fake wall on bottom to hold EB8s. 2 grommets around them to feed wires. https://smile.amazon.com/UU-BUY-Bla...8&qid=1485196584&sr=8-2&keywords=cord+grommet
On back of false walls use finger rail to organize the wires
Have a neoprene cord sleve for the wires back into the tank area similar to this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product...act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2N7NRZ9X3BHHN

For the plus I would also have them all plugged in behind the false wall and use something like this to plug in for uniformity: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product...act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3ACUPJ4C2HX16

And above all else label things on the EB8 and on the cords so no matter which side you are working on you will know what you are doing.

You could hinge the false walls as well for easier access
Click to expand...



Thank you so much! Now I have a plan.


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