SPS Color Fading - running GFO

[phoenix001]

Ok, so I've shut down the GFO reactor and removed the carbon bag. I will watch things this week and see how my corals react then report back to this thread. I will go back to 1x daily feeding and continue my weekly water changes.

 

[Logzor]

Ok, so I've shut down the GFO reactor and removed the carbon bag. I will watch things this week and see how my corals react then report back to this thread. I will go back to 1x daily feeding and continue my weekly water changes.

Sounds like a good plan.

 

[curthendrix]

I run the outflow from my BRS reactor into one of my drain socks coming off an overflow as an additional safeguard against dust from entering into the system fwiw.

 

[Reef Bass]

My 2 cents: 16tbs gfo in 120 total gallons is not causing your sps to fade. It's something else.

 

[phoenix001]

So, I just pulled out my Elos MG test and found my level to be 1100!!! Could such a low Mg level cause my SPS to fade and brown out? Any recommendations on raising Mg safely? should I turn back on the GFO and Carbon?? BTW, my phospahte level this morning is .05 - was .07 yesterday.

 

[Logzor]

Possibly, some corals are more sensitive than others to Mg levels. Raise it 100ppm a day till you reach 1350 or so. Use to reef chemistry calculator to determine how much to add.

You may have to remove some saltwater and replace it with fresh, as adding this much Mg will raise you salinity.

I would continue to not run GFO or Carbon.

 

[phoenix001]

CA Level is @ 450 with Elos test kit

 

[Rabidgoose]

...I would continue to not run GFO or Carbon.

While I understand the caution with GFO I was not aware of any problem with Carbon. Can you explain this further please.

thanks.......chuck

 

[Logzor]

While I understand the caution with GFO I was not aware of any problem with Carbon. Can you explain this further please.

thanks.......chuck

It's not exactly about caution, it's more about simplifying the system to help narrow down the cause of the problem.

Although there is some need for caution with carbon. Carbon will make your water more clear, or less yellow/green, allowing more light penetration. Imagine if you swapped in new bulbs after 14 months and began running carbon on the same day. That could possible cause some lightening in your corals due to the increase in PAR and light penetration.

In addition, I don't know exactly what carbon removes from the water, I know it's impurities of various sorts, could it possibly remove something that your sps need? I'm not entirely sure but it can be good to rule that out if you're having problems in your system.

 

[Rabidgoose]

It's not exactly about caution, it's more about simplifying the system to help narrow down the cause of the problem.

Although there is some need for caution with carbon. Carbon will make your water more clear, or less yellow/green, allowing more light penetration. Imagine if you swapped in new bulbs after 14 months and began running carbon on the same day. That could possible cause some lightening in your corals due to the increase in PAR and light penetration.

In addition, I don't know exactly what carbon removes from the water, I know it's impurities of various sorts, could it possibly remove something that your sps need? I'm not entirely sure but it can be good to rule that out if you're having problems in your system.

Okay, thanks, I have used carbon in all my tanks and seen no ill affects. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't overlooking something. Yes, the most visible affect is clearer water which is something that can lead to higher PAR values rather quickly. I will also add that I have always used it passively in my sump.

thanks........chuck

 

[BowieReefer84]

I would think 8 hours of 250watt halide is fading your corals before a P04 level of .07 I think .03-.04 is the healthy range.

 

[neoalchemist74]

i would think 8 hours of 250watt halide is fading your corals before a p04 level of .07 i think .03-.04 is the healthy range.

+1

 

[acroholicreefer]

I would think 8 hours of 250watt halide is fading your corals before a P04 level of .07 I think .03-.04 is the healthy range.

I run my lights for 8 hours on and 16 hours off with no problems.

 

[BowieReefer84]

I run my lights for 8 hours on and 16 hours off with no problems.

Cool.

I'm just saying 8 hours is more than needed with the proper halide setup. 8 hours on 250 radiums with pfo ballasts in lumenmax reflectors would put out a lot more par than 250 radiums with galaxy in spider reflectors. I am just throwing it out there as a possible cause after his crash. The frags might not be able to handle it. Just trying to help bro.

 

[acroholicreefer]

Cool.

I'm just saying 8 hours is more than needed with the proper halide setup. 8 hours on 250 radiums with pfo ballasts in lumenmax reflectors would put out a lot more par than 250 radiums with galaxy in spider reflectors. I am just throwing it out there as a possible cause after his crash. The frags might not be able to handle it. Just trying to help bro.

Oh yeah, we all are. I didn't even think about the type of light in correlation with the photoperiod but I can see that.

 

[phoenix001]

Cool.

I'm just saying 8 hours is more than needed with the proper halide setup. 8 hours on 250 radiums with pfo ballasts in lumenmax reflectors would put out a lot more par than 250 radiums with galaxy in spider reflectors. I am just throwing it out there as a possible cause after his crash. The frags might not be able to handle it. Just trying to help bro.

That's a possibility as well. Prior to the crash, my tank was obviously quite a bit more crowded with corals than it is now. Since the crash, I have reaquascaped, so the tank is more minimal now and the rock is a bit higher in the tank. As such, the corals I salvaged have been moved around some as well. I wen ahead and dropped the halides to 7 hours to see if there is any impact. I also turned GFO back on but left out the carbon- I just don't think GFO is the problem. I must get my MG level up - just waiting on the Brightwell MG additive I ordered. Will also switch back to tropic Marin reef when my IO runs out. Will keep this post updated. Thanks

 

[phoenix001]

Quick update all. I have raised my Magnesium level to 1300 as of today. I also started feeding daily in the morning as of early last week. Kept the GFO on and the carbon off. I can tell you my colors have clearly improved. Green monti is a darker green instead of barely lime. Since I did just finish raising the mag to 1300, I have to conclude that I was jsut not feeding enough and stripping to many nutrients out of the water column - at least that's what it seems. I will keep watching but things are clearly better. should have taken some before and after.

 

[Trevor40]

What salt are you using? Use a salt that has a higher mag level if your not already.

 

[phoenix001]

I use IO right now. Seems to be good in Alk and I have a CA Reactor so will start buffering mag in my weekly water changes. I was using tropic Marin pro reef for a while and it's good, just too expensive right now

 

[iPolyp]

Quick update all. I have raised my Magnesium level to 1300 as of today. I also started feeding daily in the morning as of early last week. Kept the GFO on and the carbon off. I can tell you my colors have clearly improved. Green monti is a darker green instead of barely lime. Since I did just finish raising the mag to 1300, I have to conclude that I was jsut not feeding enough and stripping to many nutrients out of the water column - at least that's what it seems. I will keep watching but things are clearly better. should have taken some before and after.

Thanks for the update. I am following along.