Sps color wild colony

[redadeath]

My sps acro seems to be dark although it cames dark at the base and white at the top with blue tips now the whole. Colony seems dark also i have another frag that was purple when i got it now its color looks to be dark i use 250 watt hamilton tec mogul bas 2 bulbs should i upgrade to 400 watt or it is not lightning matter also have good polyp extension and signs of growth on my corals


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[Allmost]

lower N and P.

 

[toothman]

purchase a hanna phosphate photometer and a salifert nitrate test kit. Make sure you have a great ro/di, I like kent because it really gives great water. Change more water, feed less. What is your p, n, mg?

 

[redadeath]

nitrates zero
phosphate zero with sera test kit
magnesium is 1350
kh 9-10
calcium 450

so guys do u think it is matter of water quality ?!!

i heared that if it is phosphate or nitrates no polyp extention will exists

also some friend told me that wild colonies need very very strong light than aquacultured

advice please

 

[Allmost]

if you think about it, all corals were wild one day, they all come from the ocean. so wild = more light makes no sense.

water quality = no PE also makes no sense. Ihave had brown corals with PE. I dont think PE can be correlated to coral health.

brown in tissue, means too much nutritions in water most of the cases, your lighting is sufficient IMHO.

any sort ofalgae growth since you are getting zero on no3 and po4 ?

 

[eja99]

From your pictures I'd buy that your nitrates and phosphates are zero(ish). And I would not use PE as a measure of sps health.

Slowly move the coral up and eventually hammer it with light would be my advice. Be patient and give it 3-6 months to color up.

 

[redadeath]

if you think about it, all corals were wild one day, they all come from the ocean. so wild = more light makes no sense.

water quality = no PE also makes no sense. Ihave had brown corals with PE. I dont think PE can be correlated to coral health.

brown in tissue, means too much nutritions in water most of the cases, your lighting is sufficient IMHO.

any sort ofalgae growth since you are getting zero on no3 and po4 ?

I agree with you too yes i have algae growing in sump i also run chaeto and algae scrubber algae scrubber starting to be week after i stopped feeding my corals also chaeto is growing well so i do u think if my phosphate is zero may be my chaeto should be dead long ago ...... Advice plz


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[redadeath]

From your pictures I'd buy that your nitrates and phosphates are zero(ish). And I would not use PE as a measure of sps health.

Slowly move the coral up and eventually hammer it with light would be my advice. Be patient and give it 3-6 months to color up.

I did that before and now it is growing in its last destination.......i am gowing to upgrade to 20k 400 watt radium


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[Allmost]

As toothman said.

make sure RO/DI is good, zero TDS.

feed the fish a bit less.

increase water changes by a couple gallons weekly, till you reach the balance you are after.


and keep KH and CA++ as Stable as you can make them.

stable KH and CA++ are REALLY important for both growth and color, cause that would mean stable consumption of "foods" available by SPS. hence lowering what is free in water. and the most mass transfer.

both colonies have great potential to look REALLY great as u want them again. keep things stable and increase the export of the system, and they will thank you by showing nice colors again

 

[allsps40]

I agree with all comments. Lower no3 and po4 to near 0, though I have no color issues with my no3 at 10-20ppm (yes I am working on lowering it). Make sure you have 0 TDS RODI water only going into the tank. Also keep in mind that no wild sps will keep its colors once in a tank, there is just no way around it. Sunlight and the artificial light we use can not compare to each other. Stability also plays a key roll in keeping sps colorful.

 

[sahin]

The first one is very pretty. The 2nd one looks to have the potential to be a nice one too.

With wild corals (as opposed to cultured) you need to have really good water parameters and to ensure that these paramaters are stable and pretty close to NSW.

I bought 4 frags which the LFS took straight off of wild colonies that came in. I bought them 3 weeks ago. 3 of the 4 had some colour, the other was brown. By the end of the first week, the 3 that had some colour turned brown.

My water parameters are:

PO4: less than 0.01ppm (Hanna ULR Phosphorus)
NO3: Undetectable
Ca: 420ppm
Alk:7.5-8 dKH
Mg: 1300

Tank is about 3 months old run on the Prodibio system. Equipment specs are as my signature.

Since the past 2 days I am seeing a fast colouring up of the frags. A couple have so far coloured up and look better than when I got them. One other is still the same, but hasnt got worse. The frag that was brown is still brown.

I also bought 3 additional frags about a week ago: Aussie Echinata, Strawberry Shortcake and an unknown frag with metallic colours on the branch - in hues of green, blue and purpple.

The SSC has dulled somehwhat and the pink bits have browned a bit, but other than that it has kept colour. The unknown frag is looking better each day and is beautiful. The Assue Echinata had blue tips, but these are largely gone. Its a cream colour overall.

So...as long as your water is up to scratch, they will colour up. Some may need a few weeks, others can take months.

I would strongly advise that you resist buying a few frag or a colony and put the money towards a Hanna PO4 meter.

Whilst your PO4 may be at or around 0.03ppm, its good to get confirmation so that you can spend effort elsewhere rather than assuming its good enough. Most of the hobby kits are pretty much useless when it gets to measuring anything below 0.25ppm (except for the D&D Merck kits etc).

Good luck, hope your corals colour up nicely. Whatever happens, do come back and update the thread in a month or two.

 

[redadeath]

thank you all guys for the informations

my ro water is not zero tds it is 8 tds does that make problem to the sps

i will plug DI chamber soon

 

[Met3112]

TDS = Total Dissolved Solids

It depends on what type of "solids" make up that 8. The DI cartridge will help bring it down to zero.

You need to get a good photometer for testing phosphate. The Sera you have cannot measure as low as you need.

Yes, all corals were wild at some point. Aquacultured corals will adapt easier to your aquarium. Maricultured (wild) corals were grown in a natural environment so they are much more sensitive to being moved from tank to tank.

I Dont care what anybody says... I have grown maricultured corals into large colonies and they are all colorful and grow fast. I guess it depends on were you get them.

 

[sahin]

That 8 TDS can be anything. Its best to add the DI. That will reduce it zero and hopefully that will provide cleaner water. Goodluck.

 

[allsps40]

Yeah fix that 8 TDS, you have no way of knowing what that 8 tds is. When my RODI gets up to 2 tds I replace my DI.

 

[redadeath]

Thank you guys so i still didnt know is it water quality or light issue


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[karsseboom]

If the coral is getting high light and is still brown I would thinks its nutrients.

 

[Allmost]

Thank you guys so i still didnt know is it water quality or light issue


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water.

8 TDS means SI and po4 of tap water not removed.

first to leach.