SPS In-wall 2.0
- Thread starter javajaws
- Start date
javajaws
Premium Member
Thanks for the kind words guys!
So how close am I? Well I decided to make a "punch out" list tonight to see what I could come up with:
Install float switches on sump
Build breakout box for Apex
Program Apex
Setup ATO container
Plumb dosing containers
Build skimmer stand/setup skimmer
Mount/hookup BRS reactor
Create/install trim around back side of tank
Add probe mounts to sump
Build tank cover
Rinse sand
I wouldn't be surprised to see this list double in the next week! LOL
The sad thing about this list is that it's mostly a bunch of DIY stuff that I can't "buy my way out of" to make it go faster. In fact, I have hardly anything at all left to buy other than a couple more float switches!
So how close am I? Well I decided to make a "punch out" list tonight to see what I could come up with:
Install float switches on sump
Build breakout box for Apex
Program Apex
Setup ATO container
Plumb dosing containers
Build skimmer stand/setup skimmer
Mount/hookup BRS reactor
Create/install trim around back side of tank
Add probe mounts to sump
Build tank cover
Rinse sand
I wouldn't be surprised to see this list double in the next week! LOL
The sad thing about this list is that it's mostly a bunch of DIY stuff that I can't "buy my way out of" to make it go faster. In fact, I have hardly anything at all left to buy other than a couple more float switches!
110galreef
New member
Looks sweet empty! :beer:
Why build the breakout box. I see this alot on RC...but for the time & only like $40....why build one. Sure you save a few bucks, but the neptune one looks very nice, functions as it should, inexpensive, and takes up minimal space, etc.....
Most of the list seems realtivley quick, expcept for a few things. So we can expect water by weds, rock by fri, cycle done by Sun, Fish on Monday and full grown corals next weekend!:lol2:
Why build the breakout box. I see this alot on RC...but for the time & only like $40....why build one. Sure you save a few bucks, but the neptune one looks very nice, functions as it should, inexpensive, and takes up minimal space, etc.....
Most of the list seems realtivley quick, expcept for a few things. So we can expect water by weds, rock by fri, cycle done by Sun, Fish on Monday and full grown corals next weekend!:lol2:
javajaws
Premium Member
I hear ya on the breakout box - but the original breakout box they sell had crappy terminals on it and I had bought all the materials to build my own before I heard about them redesigning it...
There's probably a few items on my list that I won't wait on. The most important stuff is anything related to water (ATO, sump floats, skimmer stand, etc.). I'm hoping for water next weekend. By then my rocks will have been cooking for a month so I should be good to go.
110galreef
New member
The terminals still are not the best, but as long as you dont try to jam multiple wires in a terminal and keep the wire guage small like 20-22g you are fine. They works just as needed.
javajaws
Premium Member
WeeJ
Member
You could get one from myreefcreations.com
javajaws
Premium Member
Some updates from my weekend work:
First up was to create a mount for some float switches in my sump. Its not pretty - but it was built with scrap acrylic (only had 1/4" in black!) I had laying around the garage.
Its hooks over the rim of the sump and is held in place with 1 nylon thumbscrew that is screwed through the holder and the sump.
The middle float will be the normal "fill" float. The bottom float will be for a sump low alarm and the top one will be for a sump high alarm. Unfortunately I only had these three float switches with very short leads on them. I'll use them this week to get my programming completed but I'm going to order some new ones this week that have longer leads which won't require me to join wires in the middle.
First up was to create a mount for some float switches in my sump. Its not pretty - but it was built with scrap acrylic (only had 1/4" in black!) I had laying around the garage.
Its hooks over the rim of the sump and is held in place with 1 nylon thumbscrew that is screwed through the holder and the sump.
The middle float will be the normal "fill" float. The bottom float will be for a sump low alarm and the top one will be for a sump high alarm. Unfortunately I only had these three float switches with very short leads on them. I'll use them this week to get my programming completed but I'm going to order some new ones this week that have longer leads which won't require me to join wires in the middle.
javajaws
Premium Member
Next up was to build a skimmer stand for my SRO XP-2000i skimmer. I made it with the previously mentioned "freebie" from the scrap bin as well as some more scraps I had hanging around for the legs. I added some small pieces to the top to prevent the skimmer from sliding around. I generously rounded over the corners to make it the least intrusive as possible.
javajaws
Premium Member
And lastly, I got around to mounting my BRS reactor. At first, I had planned on mounting this on the lower right side of the cabinet. But the more I thought about it the more I didn't like it. Putting it there would make it hard to get to as well as require 2 more plumbing lines (those large ~1/2" unbendable RO lines).
So after some trial and error I thought about putting it right in front, above the sump. Doing this allowed me to have very minimal plumbing going to/from it as well as having the benefit of not leaking water in the cabinet when I need to do maintenance on it. One cool (I hope) thing I did was "hang" the MJ1200 from the input line so that it isn't actually touching the bottom of the sump. The lines seem pretty strong for this and I figure it would help make it quieter.
For the observant ones out there...no that's not the output line the pump is plugged into! I removed the unit from the hanger and turned it around so the input would be on that side. I still need to do something about the labels though since they are now backwards...
So after some trial and error I thought about putting it right in front, above the sump. Doing this allowed me to have very minimal plumbing going to/from it as well as having the benefit of not leaking water in the cabinet when I need to do maintenance on it. One cool (I hope) thing I did was "hang" the MJ1200 from the input line so that it isn't actually touching the bottom of the sump. The lines seem pretty strong for this and I figure it would help make it quieter.
For the observant ones out there...no that's not the output line the pump is plugged into! I removed the unit from the hanger and turned it around so the input would be on that side. I still need to do something about the labels though since they are now backwards...
javajaws
Premium Member
Thanks for the kind words! I assure you there are plenty of flaws when you get up close. In fact I'll point out the biggest one you'll probably never notice unless you could see it in person: I should have had the tank built 1/2" longer! It turns out you can see the black silicone along the left/right vertical seams just behind the trim (look really close at that picture above and you can see what I'm talking about). If the tank was 1/4" longer on either end you wouldn't see it. I've thought about the problem some though and think I can fix it later on with new trim around the tank with a slightly different profile. But that's for later...I've got more important things to work on now.
On another note...does anybody have a good trick for keeping RO lines at the bottom of your CA/Alk containers?
On another note...does anybody have a good trick for keeping RO lines at the bottom of your CA/Alk containers?
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