SPS question

Mikenroe

New member
I am just getting into SPS coral. I goess my question is this. Has anyone grown them under AI Hydra LED lights? If so, what are your settings. All my blues are in the 90% and white is about 25% lower than blues. I have UV at about 50%, and I'm using some red and green. Would love some help.

Also, I use red sea coral pro salt, but Im questioning that, however I do not supplement with, well anything right now, but I was told to do SPS I would definitely need to start doing Ca, Alk, Mg, However do I need to also does trace elements, or things like Koralcolor or other things like that?
 
I am just getting into SPS coral. I goess my question is this. Has anyone grown them under AI Hydra LED lights? If so, what are your settings. All my blues are in the 90% and white is about 25% lower than blues. I have UV at about 50%, and I'm using some red and green. Would love some help.

Also, I use red sea coral pro salt, but Im questioning that, however I do not supplement with, well anything right now, but I was told to do SPS I would definitely need to start doing Ca, Alk, Mg, However do I need to also does trace elements, or things like Koralcolor or other things like that?

Do some looking around and some searches. You'll find these topics have been discussed literally hundreds of times.

Not to fault you for asking the same questions thousands of others have but you'll learn a lot in few hours by reading the following threads.

Hydra settings thread.

Let's talk about Alkalinity, Calcium and Magnesium in an SPS Tank
 
Thanks reefvet for the reply. I appreciate your response, however I have been searching the site a lot and have not found what I'm looking for. I read an article on here staring the different elements important for SPS corals and if they are changing what mineral or element they might be deficient in. The article also stated that if a coral stats to turn white at the base it could be because there is a lack of certain elements. My question is should I be dosing trace elements? I want good color and good growth. I have all the proper equipment. Any advice would be beneficial. Thanks
 
I think reefvet is trying to get you to understand the single most important thing about keeping sps corals alive, to thrive the concept gets deeper. You would likely see many more tanks if sps keeping were easy, it is in fact quite complex. I will however try and simplify as best as I can for you, however, I would strongly encourage you to go to the sticky's on this page, and read, read, read, assuming you want the challenge?
#1 Big Three (Calcium, Alkalinity, Magnesium)
You will need to understand that sps corals, clams, snail shells, coralline algae, are all examples of invertebrates that consume alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium. These parameters need to remain stable in order for sps in particular to survive. So in order for your corals to grow, they consume these minerals, so you need to add the minerals back into the tank, as they grow, the consumption changes, for this reason, you need to purchase quality test kits. I personally use Lamotte for Alk, Salifert for Calcium and Mag. When you begin to add these corals to the tank, then begin testing, you will see how much per day these corals take in. For example, if I had a total of 100 gallons, had only a few sps corals, I would start with a test of my current water, then add 10ml of each, then the next day, at the same time, I would test again. See what your test reveals, if it is the same as previous day, your tank is currently consuming 10ml per day, and until the corals grow, or you add more corals, likely you can keep that dosing schedule for awhile. When I establish my base line for Ca, and Alk, I usually test everyday at the same time for over a week to dial in my consumption. Magnesium in my opinion is not something I am too concerned with, I test weekly, but see little consumption, so I only dose every so often, however, you need to stay in proper range, if not you will precipitate your calcium and alk rendering it useless, so mag does need to be in range for the ca, and alk to work. I prefer to keep my parameters at close to Natural Sea Water range, or NSW.
I test at 7.33dkh for alk, 400ppm Ca, and 1390 for Mag. Just my preference, my salt tests roughly at those levels, so when water changes are made, I stay in those ranges and do not have to adjust my dosing schedule, because if I for example did a 20 gallon water change on my 120, and it ran at 11dkh for alk, and 420 for Ca, I would raise my total volume to a higher level than normal, which certainly impacts my levels of parameters, and changes my dosing schedule for a few days. For this reason, I find it very important to use a salt that is in the range you wish to keep your parameters set. I use Neo salt from Brightwells, it tests very close to what I prefer my levels at, so I do not have to worry when changing out water, my dosing is automated, so having to change my schedule every time I change water would be a hassle. Keep in mind, I use 2 part dosing, however, you can use other methods to keep parameters stable. May I suggest the use of kalkwasser until you understand the importance of keeping calcium and alk stable, since it keeps both stable in a one drip solution. Essentially it is pickling lime, added to fresh RO water mixed at up to 2 tspoons per gallon, and dripping at the rate that your tank needs to make up for evaporation. So when you start, maybe your solution is at .5 or .75 tspoon per gallon, as your reef grows and the demand for consumption grows with calcium and alk, you then use more of the pickling lime per gallon, up to 2 tspoons, after that you have to make another choice for keeping your parameters up. You can also research Calcium reactors or balling method, both of which I would not think about until you become more experienced. OK, I am winded, I think that should give you some where to begin, hoped this helped you, I do think you need to read, read, read... Good luck.
 
plyle02! thanks so much for your reply. First of all, I appreciate your time and your response, and second I apologize for my previous post as the spelling and grammar were horrible. I was posting from my cell phone and stupid auto correct or siri did not hear me correctly. I am again attempting this post with Siri, so hopefully she does a better job. Even though, I am new to SPS, I do have a few years experience, which in no means qualifies me as an expert, but my point is, is that i do under stand the importance of the Ca, Alk, Mg. However, you brought up a good point about WC and how that can affect your levels. I use Red Sea Coral Pro Salt, however have been thinking about switching. I have been using the red sea pro testing kits and also thinking about switching to either salifert or hanna. So basically, I should test my water, make sure they are in the correct parameters, add 5 to 10 ml of ca and alk, then next day test again and see if my levels are the same, higher, or lower, then make adjustments, Correct? However, what about Iron, potassium iodide, strontium? I read an article stating that a deficit in some of these trace elements can be the reason why some SPS start loosing tissue from the base. Should I by something that I can dose that would replenish these, or will WC do that. Is a 20% WC weekly too much? I was thinking that would help keep the water clean. Do SPS also need food, other than good lighting, like reef roids or cyclopeeze. my current system is included in my signature. I do weekly 20% WC with Red Coral Sea Pro, I have some bright well Ca, Alk, Mg, and use the red sea pro testing supplies, but find it hard to read. Maybe I'll buy Salifert. Thanks for your advise and I appreciate all the advice. I will go and re read the stickies under the SPS forums.
 
Ok,
Good, I think you get the point and are well on your way, but let me clear up a couple of points. If you are doing 20% water change per week or even every 2 weeks, that will more than satisfy trace minerals. You can, like me, dose more trace minerals, that just allows for a bit of laziness as it relates to salt water changes. Base up necrosis on sps is usually lack of flow, pests, phosphate issues, but not do to lack of trace minerals, at least that I have heard :) Again, choose your salt based on YOUR desired parameters, Red Coral Sea Pro is elevated in Alk, reason I never used it. As far as food goes, have a health stock of fish, well fed, with a powerful skimmer is all you need for coral health, that and strong light, now go have some fun :)
 
Plyle02, thanks again for your reply. What do you think about tropic marin salt? I'm going to look at getting the salifert tests kits today. I do still have my red sea pro kits but it would be interesting to compare the results between the two. i have two MP40's on my tank set at their max, and I dip every coral I put in my tank with a coral cleaner, so hopefully i don't have any pest. As far as placement in the tank, is it best to place them at the top, where they will receive the most light and most flow? my lights sit in a canopy over my tank about 8-10 inches above the tank. thanks again.
 

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