sps tanks salt choice

Looking at this thread ESV gets some good results and stays consistent and not just for me. So IMO I would have to say yes. I know I'm pleased with it after all the years and trying almost everything I'm sticking with it but again this is JMO!
 
I hear you trk, just furstrated and its not even a money thing. Its more mention since I'm still wondering how my corals react to different alk/cal levels.
 
Yep I hear ya on that one. I have always felt once you maintain a stable environment over time corals adapt so IMO I would stay with one salt and let the corals adapt ya know? If they all survive they will be fine for the long haul and thrive in their comfortable condition. Think I said that right lol

Oh I should have mentioned not crappy conditions a good salt with good CA and ALK levels.
 
brad65ford said:
Well seem no salt mixes are coming up good for me. This time I tried Tropic Marine Salt, pretty odd they recommend 1.020 - 1.022 salinity? Anyway I tested at 35 (1.026) and Alk was off the charts my guess 14-15 dkh so I lowered the salinity to 1.024 and alk is now at 13.2 and cal is 340! I just can't catch a brake with these salts.
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I have read u c an use acid to lower alk then let circulating for 24 hours and all the acid will be go but will have lower alk. I have not done this I will try and find where I read this.

Found it. This is one of the head guys of the zeovit method wher and alk of 7 is highest level recommended so lower alk is very important to there method or coral bleach.

http://www.zeovit.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18309
 
whitesquall said:
As these salt mixes change their top tree parameters CA,ALK,MG which seems like every year, can some of you post the recent readings of your salt mix.

I been using RedSea Pro, I like it but have noticed when I leave it mixing for extended periods...it leaves a heavy residue in my mixing container (I know its designed to be used within 24hrs, but I like to keep 50gallons mixing always just incase I need it)

3/9/13 RedSea Pro tested out at: CA-450 ALK-9 MG-1250
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I was using Red Sea Coral Pro as well and I noticed it would leave a brown residue in my mixing tank after several weeks. My mixing tank is 45 gallons and I only use 15 gallons every month so I was holding saltwater three months or more. I have since switched to Instant Ocean and it mixes clean no residue. I add ALK and calcium as well as Mag so it does not matter what the perimeters are after mixing. I did notice that it takes more Instant Ocean salt per gallon to get to 1.025 SG. I've always used 1/2 cup per gallon of fresh IO/DI water of Red Sea Coral Pro and now I use 3/4 cup per gallon of Instant Ocean to get to the same 1.025 SG. It still cost less for Instant Ocean.
 
I don't know why but for years I have always thought holding salt water for too long is not beneficial in anyway and not necessarily a good thing. I have never mixed more than I can use in 30 days or less now I mix a day before at most just because I can but if I had to mix more and hold I would make sure it is less then I can use in 30 days like I mentioned above.

I feel this theory above is true because of exactly what was mentioned above people mix salts and dump them in their tanks every day I don't care what brand you use and never see residues like mentioned above (Brown,White etc.). Holding salt for extended periods of time really seems like something is breaking down. I have seen Tropic,IO,RC residue from sitting but never when mixed and added to a display so this tells me something is happening when it sits for too long ya know? JMO
 
rogergolf66 said:
I have read u c an use acid to lower alk then let circulating for 24 hours and all the acid will be go but will have lower alk. I have not done this I will try and find where I read this.

Found it. This is one of the head guys of the zeovit method wher and alk of 7 is highest level recommended so lower alk is very important to there method or coral bleach.

http://www.zeovit.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18309
Click to expand...

Though I agree for lower alk levels , not sure one would want to add yet another variable like acid to the mix. Just added my first water change of Tropic marine, I can't believe I allowed myself to use this stuff at 14+ alk.
 
I was using D&D H2Ocean Salt until last week. For some months now I've been in a constant high phosphate battle in my tank. The tank is now well over 6 months old. I was always registering at least 0.08ppm or as high as 0.1ppm in my tank.

So, last week I decided to test the freshly mixed saltwater; it tested 0.12ppm (Hanna ULR Meter). My tank tested about 0.06ppm. And I have been using at least 1 cup of GFO each week with a fresh water change...

Hence everytime I changed water, it just pushed my phosphates up.

I have now bought a new bucket of TM Pro Reef. This tested at 0.03ppm for phosphate.

That is a BIG difference. I have new filters, and DI resin in my RODI unit. I always change out the resin as soon as my TDS metering shows a reading other than zero.

The main thing I noticed with the new salt is that unlike H2Ocean which left a large amount of brown residue in the salt bucket, this salt mixes clear.

Much happier now.
 
sahin said:
I was using D&D H2Ocean Salt until last week. For some months now I've been in a constant high phosphate battle in my tank. The tank is now well over 6 months old. I was always registering at least 0.08ppm or as high as 0.1ppm in my tank.

So, last week I decided to test the freshly mixed saltwater; it tested 0.12ppm (Hanna ULR Meter). My tank tested about 0.06ppm. And I have been using at least 1 cup of GFO each week with a fresh water change...

Hence everytime I changed water, it just pushed my phosphates up.

I have now bought a new bucket of TM Pro Reef. This tested at 0.03ppm for phosphate.

That is a BIG difference. I have new filters, and DI resin in my RODI unit. I always change out the resin as soon as my TDS metering shows a reading other than zero.

The main thing I noticed with the new salt is that unlike H2Ocean which left a large amount of brown residue in the salt bucket, this salt mixes clear.

Much happier now.
Click to expand...

Good subject of of the RO/DI filters, I've always wondered if they hold or grow bacteria since at times they stay stagnant. Not sure how small bacteria is to effect a TDS meter?
 
sahin said:
I was using D&D H2Ocean Salt until last week. For some months now I've been in a constant high phosphate battle in my tank. The tank is now well over 6 months old. I was always registering at least 0.08ppm or as high as 0.1ppm in my tank.

So, last week I decided to test the freshly mixed saltwater; it tested 0.12ppm (Hanna ULR Meter). My tank tested about 0.06ppm. And I have been using at least 1 cup of GFO each week with a fresh water change...

Hence everytime I changed water, it just pushed my phosphates up.

I have now bought a new bucket of TM Pro Reef. This tested at 0.03ppm for phosphate.

That is a BIG difference. I have new filters, and DI resin in my RODI unit. I always change out the resin as soon as my TDS metering shows a reading other than zero.

The main thing I noticed with the new salt is that unlike H2Ocean which left a large amount of brown residue in the salt bucket, this salt mixes clear.

Much happier now.
Click to expand...

I have the same experience with this salt, and also with the Red Sea Pro. High Phosphate in freshly mixed water, and a Iron-oxide kind of residue in the container (to cover up high phosphates?). Won't use it anymore and don't recommend it to my customers. Switched back to TM Pro.

Leonardo
 
Leonardo_ said:
I have the same experience with this salt, and also with the Red Sea Pro. High Phosphate in freshly mixed water, and a Iron-oxide kind of residue in the container (to cover up high phosphates?). Won't use it anymore and don't recommend it to my customers. Switched back to TM Pro.
Leonardo
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Well, my friend its good to know that I am not the only one. I know Joe (JPM...something, forget his username...he has an awesome cubish tank) stated something similar about this the D&D H2Ocean salt.

I remember a few years ago there D&D admitted in the UK that a batch of their salt had high phosphate and they even sent out package of Rowaphos due to the phosphate affected salt.

Its also VERY interesting that you mention the RedSea Salt having a phosphate reading...I was told by the store manager of a major UK fishstore chain that RedSea Salt and H2Ocean are basically from the the same source...main difference is that D&D add extra Magnesium to their salt.

Well I am glad that your finding is same as mine.

I have also started using Tropic Marin Pro Reef. Other than Mg being on the lower side. Its a nice salt. Mixes easy and leaves no residue.

Since I started to use TMPR my SPS have also started to colour up.
 
sahin said:
Well, my friend its good to know that I am not the only one. I know Joe (JPM...something, forget his username...he has an awesome cubish tank) stated something similar about this the D&D H2Ocean salt.
Click to expand...

Hey I resemble that remark :hmm5:

But seriously half my fun in this hobby is "fiddling" so this thread inspired me to go back and try some "old/new" salts just for kicks. I've been using ESV for so long I thought it wouldn't hurt to try . . .

Anyways, I mixed up a batch of IO last week and came up with the unsurprising results we all know so well:

SG 1.024 (32 ppt salinity)
dKH 9
335 ppm Ca+
pH 7.8

I'm really zooming in on the pH as this has been a bugga-boo for my tank for a long time, and I'm starting to believe it is part of the reason I have slower growth and paler colors these days, but that's for a whole other thread as it is a by product of the CO2 in my house and not a function of IO salt mix.

Next up for trying, my old pal, Coralife salt. I bought 300 gallons worth for my big quarterly sump cleanup. I used to have a significant problem with white calcium carbonate building up on the lip of my tank right at the water evaporation line, and I thought for a while that it was due to the B-Ionic dosing I was doing, but Coralife always left an enormous amount of carbonate residue in my mixing tank so I'm wondering if I will see that white line again after I do a 300 gallon water change. We'll see . . .
 
Last edited:
kb1094 said:
Red Sea salt because the calcium of it is neutral meaning that it won't increase your calcium parameters every time you do a water change and also because it has lower nutrients for sps corals, however you can ge some Red Sea products to increase the nutrients.
Click to expand...

So you're saying if I keep my tank calcium at 400ppm and I do a 50% water change with Red Sea Salt that is at 450ppm, my display tanks CA level will stay at 400ppm? Please explain.


Also, I've used Tropic Marine Pro and it was great, after my bucket ran out I switched to Red Sea Coral Pro and it was also great, now I am using Reef Crystals and it works just as great as the other 2, but a lot cheaper. So I think I'll stick with Reef Crystals just for the price of it.
 
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