Sputniks 63G Rimless Reef

Sputniks 63G Rimless Reef

Looking good so far matey, your rock scape is cool :)

Thank you sir [emoji4]

Any updates?


And yes, there is few updates... The cycle is over and it did took a while with dry rock/live sand... Still got diatoms, but it slowly going away. Got some fishes to keep the bacteria happy and got some GSPs free from local LFS, a little test coral :) I'm gonna make a video on my sump and stuff, finally all done [emoji851]

Ammonia 0ppm
Nitrite 0ppm
Nitrate 10ppm

FTS
44db98be32beb4ae1b2bf6bc1e40b2c0.jpg


Left
8608f84ca1ee0c837d1b1591592bd3c4.jpg


Right
af3013aa01144f65a5808b98a576d3d9.jpg
b0597fb0c21dff02504c28930e7c9b1b.jpg
6b1145d528561f32a2697a8e7f3d2122.jpg
14cd75ad7fac2b7c022ae5f88649cd99.jpg
 
Around is better ...

Around is better ...

Excellent project ... and as you say that nobody notices to cosmetic tell you that I do.
I think to avoid these bubbles silicone will secure future leaks, it is best to stick around glass glasses making background.
So you give more aesthetic and finish your installation and also be much safer and work 100% silicone cordon joints.
There I leave my opinion humbly ... ...:spin3: Greetings from Colombia, !!!!!!!!:spin3:
 
Nice build. Subscribed. I like the pipe work.

Happy new year.
Thank you sir, plumbing was always my favorite [emoji851]



Excellent project ... and as you say that nobody notices to cosmetic tell you that I do.

I think to avoid these bubbles silicone will secure future leaks, it is best to stick around glass glasses making background.

So you give more aesthetic and finish your installation and also be much safer and work 100% silicone cordon joints.

There I leave my opinion humbly ... ...:spin3: Greetings from Colombia, !!!!!!!!:spin3:

Thank you very much :)

I didn't get that part, sorry [emoji4]


it is best to stick around glass glasses making background.
 
Here's a FTS of yesterday, I'm gonna make some more pics later on, thinking of getting good camera, my iPhone is not meant for this...
9a05c40d9073b7668194daf218ca11ee.jpg
 
Ah good and what I say it is better to paste the glass around the base.
Forgive but the translation by Google is sometimes not the best.
Now I send a picture thanks.
 
Sputniks 63G Rimless Reef

Ah good and what I say it is better to paste the glass around the base.
Forgive but the translation by Google is sometimes not the best.
Now I send a picture thanks.

Oh ok, yeah I was gonna do it that way but my glass panels weren't precision cuts, so I did it that way...

How is the Mag 12 handling the eductors? Any heat issues with the Mag 12 and UV Sterilizer?


Ok, you're a sharp shooter sir [emoji2] because this is on top of my concern list and mag + uv unit are the suspects... My room temp is around 72-75F my water is hanging around 80-82 tops, rarely it goes down to 78, on a cold day... Currently considering running a system w/o uv unit and going external return pump, it's quite a project, because I have to drill the sump... I'm trying to avoid using my Oceanic chiller, so I'm on it.... But yeah, you think that mag12 and uv are the heat problem?

On the educators, mag12 is doing pretty good job moving water trough all that head... I'm making a video I'm my entire system this weak.
 
Last edited:
Mag drive pumps are inexpensive and generate a fair amount of heat. UV sterilizers are not inexpensive and generate a fair amount of heat.

You do not need to drill your sump to run and external pump. I've been running external pumps without drilling my sump for almost 12 years now. Pumps and sumps have changed, method has not.

Use PVC to build am upside down U from the inlet of the pump to the end stage of your sump. To prime the pump, you will need to fill water from the outlet side.

Use unions and True Union Ball Valves, (TUBV's), liberally for future dis-assembly for pump maintenance.

Personally, I use TUBV's on the outflow side so that I can stop back siphon if need be, and unions on the inlet side since I'm more worried about dis-assembly on that side.

Use two TUBV's on the out flow side. One very close to the outlet of the pump, and one higher up. The low one is for pump maintenance, the high one is for outlet/plumbing maintenance.

One last suggestion,

Regarding your sump not being able to handle the back siphon from a power outage: Just raise the outlet higher in your tank. That will lessen the amount of water you back siphon during a power outtage.

Calculate the volume of extra water your sump can handle without overflowing, (lxwxh = A. A divided by 231 will give you the volume of water for that space. IE...Sump measures 24x12x16. Sump water level runs at 10 inches. You have 6 inches of available water space. 24x12x6 = 1728. 1728 divided by 231 = 7.48 gallons of water.)

Now calculate the water volume your tank will back siphon during a power outage using the same process. Tank is 36x36x16 but sump returns sit under 4 inches of water. 36x36x4 = 5184. 5184 divided by 231 = 22.44 gallons of water. Raising your sump returns to one inch below the water surface changes things dramatically.

36x36x1 = 1296. 1296 divided by 231 = 5.61 gallons of water.

Just something to think about for the future.
 
Mag drive pumps are inexpensive and generate a fair amount of heat. UV sterilizers are not inexpensive and generate a fair amount of heat.

You do not need to drill your sump to run and external pump. I've been running external pumps without drilling my sump for almost 12 years now. Pumps and sumps have changed, method has not.

Use PVC to build am upside down U from the inlet of the pump to the end stage of your sump. To prime the pump, you will need to fill water from the outlet side.

Use unions and True Union Ball Valves, (TUBV's), liberally for future dis-assembly for pump maintenance.

Personally, I use TUBV's on the outflow side so that I can stop back siphon if need be, and unions on the inlet side since I'm more worried about dis-assembly on that side.

Use two TUBV's on the out flow side. One very close to the outlet of the pump, and one higher up. The low one is for pump maintenance, the high one is for outlet/plumbing maintenance.

One last suggestion,

Regarding your sump not being able to handle the back siphon from a power outage: Just raise the outlet higher in your tank. That will lessen the amount of water you back siphon during a power outtage.

Calculate the volume of extra water your sump can handle without overflowing, (lxwxh = A. A divided by 231 will give you the volume of water for that space. IE...Sump measures 24x12x16. Sump water level runs at 10 inches. You have 6 inches of available water space. 24x12x6 = 1728. 1728 divided by 231 = 7.48 gallons of water.)

Now calculate the water volume your tank will back siphon during a power outage using the same process. Tank is 36x36x16 but sump returns sit under 4 inches of water. 36x36x4 = 5184. 5184 divided by 231 = 22.44 gallons of water. Raising your sump returns to one inch below the water surface changes things dramatically.

36x36x1 = 1296. 1296 divided by 231 = 5.61 gallons of water.

Just something to think about for the future.

Quoted my post because this is now on a different page and I forgot to add something....


I actually use 3 TUBV's total. I use two on the outflow side and one on the inlet side. Two TUBV's are as close to the pump as possible for disassembly and maintenance. Close them, unlock them, remove the fittings from the pump itself, and swap pumps....just about that fast. This really makes it convenient when a pump goes down for some reason...(you know...when you're already running late to work and you have absolutely no time to spare to diagnose a problem and fix it? Just swap pumps and come fix the malfunctioning one later).

And I use the 3rd TUBV higher up on the outflow side in case I need to disassemble anything on the far end....I run my return through a Sea Swirl, and occasionally they will require maintenance as well.
 
I'm about to make some update pics and stuff... Had a few obstacles, was battling major cyano outbreak for a while and just as I managed to make it go away, along came the dino... As soon as I noticed dino, I cut my light from 11 hours down to 6 hours, 4 hours actinics and 2 hours full spectrum, that way it's not progressing and I think it's going away. Some brown strings on the glass and sand... Will make some pic soon.
 
Late to another..
Really nice 'from scratch' build!
Beautiful plumbing job as well.
I like the scape. Nice and open... Soon to be filled in with Acro bush.
 
Back
Top