Stand concerns

[LinkinReef]

I had someone build me a stand m, but the way they built the bottom is different than what I've seen before. He said that it was built to handle a 100g tank. I have a 50g.

Based on the pictures, would I be ok the way it's built at the bottom?

 

[jduck]

Depends on the tank dimensions. If it takes up complete top of stand I would be worried about it tipping forward.

 

[TheAquatect]

At roughly 500lbs, the way the weight transfers down to that narrow base is key and critical. From the pics you supplied, your weakest point is the cabinet bottom panel which could bow inward. I would confirm with the builder that it was built to hold that much weight.
Also, what type of wood did they use? It looks like a mix of plywood and MDF. MDF will swell when wet and not a good choice for an aquarium stand.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[davocean]

It's built like a kitchen cabinet w/ a toe kick, not optimal for base support, could even potentially be tippy, but I also noticed a mix of MDF and ply, bummer, I am not a fan of MDF around water, better seal the heck out of it, and it if were me I'd at least rebuild that toe kick section or eliminate it all together.
All 4 glass panels should have vertical support from floor to panel.

 

[LinkinReef]

Depends on the tank dimensions. If it takes up complete top of stand I would be worried about it tipping forward.

That's my main concern. The tank measures 24x24 and that's what the top of the stand measures as well

 

[GimpyFin]

I wouldn't use it as is either. 3 of the 4 sides don't have full support down to the floor and all that weight is going to be on the piece of plywood/mdf between the bottom of the cabinet and the base.

 

[LinkinReef]

Stand concerns

Do you guys think I should have it made with different materials instead? If so, what materials should I have it made out of? I'm going to paint it white so I'm not looking for any kind of fancy wood since I won't be seeing it.

If I can still use this one and reinforce the bottom, what's the best thing I can use to seal it with so it won't swell?

 

[mattgumaer]

Most dyi stands are overbuilt so, maybe it's ok, but, I'd be nervous for a few reasons: 1) of the 4 walls of the stand, only the back wall is directly over the base, the other three are outside of the footprint of the base; 2) if it's mdf (particularly the panel to which the base attaches), this seems like a bad idea as it will get wet and mdf does not like moisture; 3) I would like to see some bracing that goes diagonally across the corners of the base; and 4) mdf can be a little finicky with fasteners like screws, so I'd want to be sure things were glued well.

If you're going to use the stand, I'd be tempted to add some strips of plywood to the sides of the base so that the side walls rest on the now thicker sides of the base and add four braces at the corners of the base. You're going to want to be comfortable with your stand otherwise, it will be a source of concern for as long as you have the tank set up.

Matt

 

[davocean]

Do you guys think I should have it made with different materials instead? If so, what materials should I have it made out of? I'm going to paint it white so I'm not looking for any kind of fancy wood since I won't be seeing it.

If I can still use this one and reinforce the bottom, what's the best thing I can use to seal it with so it won't swell?

If it were built properly I would advise sealing the heck out of it so you can get max life out of it, but honestly MDF is not going to last nearly as long as any ply no matter what you do.
You could possibly remove and rebuild that toe kick/base, or reinforce it so there is proper support, that would at least make it safely usable, but just not optimal.

Really ply would have been best, and also regular drywall screws will rust really fast, the gold colored/zinc coated are my preference, and I always use tightbond III glue at all seams(that stuff is water proof) but really any wood glue makes a big difference in strength and longevity, not sure if that was used or not, just saying what is best, but even if it was glued MDF just does not glue up that well or bond like ply would.

 

[LinkinReef]

So as it stands, I think I'm going to have another one built instead. I don't feel comfortable using this one.

Since I'm not good at explaining how I want the tank built, based on the advice here, how could I tell the person to build it how it's supposed to be?

I need to ask him to use plywood correct?

Ask him to glue all the seams and use zinc coded screws?

How can I tell him about the base to be built the right way?

Does anyone have a blueprint for a stand or is anyone good at this that could help me out make a blueprint for him? I'm trying to go for the Red Sea/Cadlights stand look with a dimension of 24x24x35.

 

[davocean]

I'm sorry if I sound like I'm knocking your stand as is, and I know it's dissapointing to hear, but if on here asking I just have to say what is correct and best.

I don't think you need blueprints, just tell him build the same thing but straight down flush all the way to the floor, no toe kick, and tell him to use 3/4" ply, no MDF or particle board of any kind, glue all joints, any nails or screws used should stand to salt water/marine applications, so I use stainless steel nails(some people might use hot dipped galvanized, passable if sealed w/ caulking and painted) and gold colored screws, those last.
I hope this helps you.

 

[LinkinReef]

I'm sorry if I sound like I'm knocking your stand as is, and I know it's dissapointing to hear, but if on here asking I just have to say what is correct and best.

I don't think you need blueprints, just tell him build the same thing but straight down flush all the way to the floor, no toe kick, and tell him to use 3/4" ply, no MDF or particle board of any kind, glue all joints, any nails or screws used should stand to salt water/marine applications, so I use stainless steel nails(some people might use hot dipped galvanized, passable if sealed w/ caulking and painted) and gold colored screws, those last.
I hope this helps you.

No, no worries at all! I take it all as advice and would rather have someone tell me if it's wrong rather than to use a faulty/sketchy stand =)

 

[davocean]

Here's a thread in the DIY that may help you show your guy, and he does not have to totally copy it(you probably don't need the shelves) and if he is good w/ a circular saw he could do what we call "dropping in" using a guide and unlocked table and he can cut the openings in one piece rather than what this person did, or do what he did cutting segments and using a kreg jig to connect, but more than anything the basic principles are shown here.
My only correction on this one is I prefer the bottom ply on the floor, gives max room inside, but either way works.
Also if you are looking for flush and no corner trim or detail moulding as this guy did, tell him miter the connecting ends.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=24938245#post24938245

 

[rtparty]

I don't have any plans but here's some pics of the stand I just built with my father in law. Okay, my father in law built 95% of it while I wasn't there. It is made out of 3/4" "good" plywood.

I wish I had more pictures of the process overall. It is rock solid. Glued, screwed, dado (spelling?)

Hope that helps.

BTW - the door you see in the one picture warped on us so we replaced it with a plywood door. I pick it up Friday and my build finally starts!

 

[ericarenee]

Its not structurally correct for a cabinet much less a aquarium..

the images above my post are much better .I would reject this work... there are several fatal structural flows similar to those on the front of a Kitchen cabinet.. the weight of the cabinet and tank will cause the floor to buckle with any moisture and the screws will not hold it together....

 

[LinkinReef]

Here's a thread in the DIY that may help you show your guy, and he does not have to totally copy it(you probably don't need the shelves) and if he is good w/ a circular saw he could do what we call "dropping in" using a guide and unlocked table and he can cut the openings in one piece rather than what this person did, or do what he did cutting segments and using a kreg jig to connect, but more than anything the basic principles are shown here.
My only correction on this one is I prefer the bottom ply on the floor, gives max room inside, but either way works.
Also if you are looking for flush and no corner trim or detail moulding as this guy did, tell him miter the connecting ends.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=24938245#post24938245

I'll pass along this info to him. He cuts everything via cnc I think.

 

[LinkinReef]

I don't have any plans but here's some pics of the stand I just built with my father in law. Okay, my father in law built 95% of it while I wasn't there. It is made out of 3/4" "good" plywood.

I wish I had more pictures of the process overall. It is rock solid. Glued, screwed, dado (spelling?)

Hope that helps.

BTW - the door you see in the one picture warped on us so we replaced it with a plywood door. I pick it up Friday and my build finally starts!

That's a nice build! I'll show him these pictures.

 

[rtparty]

That's 24x24 and I think 34" tall

 

[LinkinReef]

Its not structurally correct for a cabinet much less a aquarium..

the images above my post are much better .I would reject this work... there are several fatal structural flows similar to those on the front of a Kitchen cabinet.. the weight of the cabinet and tank will cause the floor to buckle with any moisture and the screws will not hold it together....

Thanks! Yeah I'm definitely not comfortable with this stand as it is.

 

[LinkinReef]

Just to confirm that its MDF, this is the material that was used: