Starphire Scratched - Looking for 1st hand experiences

[samwrang]

Through the perfect combination of mistakes I have managed to mark the front of my 200 with 5, 24" long scratches. They are faint, barely detectable with the finger nail test, but when lit with 400W hallides behind them - stand out clearly.

The tank is almost brand new, and there is no way I'm going to tear it down to replace the panel.

My question is this. With no limit on price, and not worrying about the amount of work, can I safely minimize these scratches without draining the tank and without making it worse?

I'm looking for first hand information for people who have done this before.

PS - For everyone else out there hanging lights with stainless chains, be very careful where the metal shards might end up. Apparently they are attracted to magnets.

 

[Jar*Head]

Hello Samwrang, you can use fine wet sand paper 1500 grits and 2000 grits to sand it down slowly. It will take a LONGGGGGGG time but it will helps get rid of your scratches. Whenever you get a chance to drain your tank (if that ever happen) you can use the CERIUM oxide part #
C0301 (glass polish) to buff out the haze on your glass... Hope that will help.... You can go to the glass shop and ask them for the pad...

 

[samwrang]

Jarhead, why do I need to drain the tank?

 

[samwrang]

Sorry Jarhead, I missed in my original post the scratches are on the outside of the glass.

 

[Jar*Head]

Dang, that is even easier... Use the wet sand then the Cerium Oxide...

 

[samwrang]

I see I can use a power tool to polish with the Cerium but what is your process for the wet sand paper? Just sand it by hand along each scratch?

 

[Jar*Head]

Yes sir.... just sand it by hand Make sure you fold the sand paper as small as you possibly can

 

[samwrang]

Jar*Head, you've actually done this on Starphire Glass? I've read in a a few places it might react differently than regular glass to the sanding.

 

[ricks]

Dang, glass tanks scratch???

 

[Muligan]

I would get a small piece of starphire to practice on first

 

[Jar*Head]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11056233#post11056233 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by samwrang
Jar*Head, you've actually done this on Starphire Glass? I've read in a a few places it might react differently than regular glass to the sanding.

Starphire glass much softer compare to regular glass. As far as reaction with sand paper i think you were talking about the thicker grits. 1500-2000 grits is super fine. To be safe, just use the Cerium.... I have done it on starphire glass without any reaction......

 

[samwrang]

I'll try just the Cerium first then if it isn't working try the sandpaper.

 

[Caragol]

It's going to take a long time, but will probably be worth it if it works. Just remember to post back here once you've done it, I'm curious to see how much work it took and if it did the trick. I'd also suggest working a small area first, perhaps in the middle of a scratch so you can see your progress more clearly as you'll have the other scratches to compare it to.

No experience with this at all, good luck.

 

[Jar*Head]

It will take long.... I hope you have the patient...

 

[tbone28]

I put a 2" long scratch on the exterior pane of my tank as well. I used a Dremel with the buffing attachment (round, cotton) with toothpaste. It took a long time, but I got the scratch out.

 

[samwrang]

I'll be sure to post the results. It might take a while, I'm looking at close to 72" of scratch.

 

[khoivo1]

can i do the same thing with sand paper and Cerium Oxide on regular glass too?? or should i used a 1000g sand paper on regular glass seen it hard glass?? does Cerium Oxide harm fishes?/ i am thinking to lower water down and then sand and buffing it,,,what do you guy think?

 

[Jar*Head]

Khoivo, i don't recommend 1000grits it may be to thick and will do more scratch then good. With Cerium Oxide, you need to drain the tank to be safe. I have seen folks did it which some water in the tank but it was fresh water. I don't know the affect on salt water...

 

[Caragol]

Khoivo,

Keep in mind that even if it is reef safe it's going to take a lot of time, so your water level would need to be low during that time. If you're relying on an overflow and a sump you may have a problem. Without water overflowing to the sump due to reduced water level in the display, the equipment down there wouldn't be in use during that same time so you'd need to at least make sure you have decent heating/chilling/water movement in the display.

 

[Jar*Head]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11089353#post11089353 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Caragol
Khoivo,

Keep in mind that even if it is reef safe it's going to take a lot of time, so your water level would need to be low during that time. If you're relying on an overflow and a sump you may have a problem. Without water overflowing to the sump due to reduced water level in the display, the equipment down there wouldn't be in use during that same time so you'd need to at least make sure you have decent heating/chilling/water movement in the display.

You will have to do it couple times before the cratches disappear...