Starting a 120 reef tank, questions

StaySalty

Member
So I recently bought a used 120 reef ready tank with dual overflows. Hopefully you guys can provide some insight on some of the questions I have.

1.) Does the tank really need to be "sterilized"? I bought the tank used but it was broken down quite a while(atleast a few weeks) before I bought it so it's very dry. Can I just use warm water and some elbow grease to remove some of the dried up algea and water stains on the glass?

Some people say to run bleach or vinegar. Wondering if this is really necessary?

2.) I've never done a tank with dual overflows. I believe the the drains are 1" and the returns are 3/4". I am tempted to just use barbed bulkheads, vynyl tubing, and hose clamps for everything. This is basically what I did with my 92 corner and it worked fine for me. I'm not sure if the same has any negatives with a tank this size and one more overflow. I am going to be using an Eheim 1262 for the return pump. Thoughts?
 
1) Pathogins like ich or coral parasites are probably already dead if the former owner had them. But vinegar or another mild acid (plus a razor blade - glass only) is probably needed to remove tough salt or mineral deposits and will also help with algae residue, which should be removed. I'd invest in a few gallons of vinegar. You only get one chance to start right.

Properly installed PVC plumbing is ideal and the most trouble free "sleep well at night"
option. That's a lot of water to common the floor. I would use both overflows if you already have them. Effort is minimal in the big picture & you have the security of two instead of one. And flow dynamics may be improved. Just my opinions, not scientific fact.
 
1) Pathogins like ich or coral parasites are probably already dead if the former owner had them. But vinegar or another mild acid (plus a razor blade - glass only) is probably needed to remove tough salt or mineral deposits and will also help with algae residue, which should be removed. I'd invest in a few gallons of vinegar. You only get one chance to start right.

Properly installed PVC plumbing is ideal and the most trouble free "sleep well at night"
option. That's a lot of water to common the floor. I would use both overflows if you already have them. Effort is minimal in the big picture & you have the security of two instead of one. And flow dynamics may be improved. Just my opinions, not scientific fact.

Thanks for the input. Vinegar seems like a good compromise between nothing and bleach.

As far as using hard pvc, my main concern was it being potentially difficult to work around in case I need to do work in the stand, add new equipment, etc.
 
I have a 125 with dual overflows. Use the overflows I suggest all hard plumbing and all slip connections. Threaded connections leak! Do not glue in the drains that are inside the overflow (weir) just set them there. The 1262 is going to be too much flow for your return (I have a 1262) so make sure you have a gate valve on the return to crank it back. Put valves on the drains for maintenance as well as if you want to go full siphon you'll need a valve to tune that. Also use plenty of unions so you can take apart the plumbing for maintenance. True union ball valves are probably your best bet since they are fairly cheap.

Vinegar goes a long way in removing all of the deposits that are still in the tank.
 
Do not glue in the drains that are inside the overflow (weir) just set them there.

Sorry I'm not sure what you mean. Do you mean not to glue the durso standpipes into the bulkheads?

The 1262 is going to be too much flow for your return (I have a 1262) so make sure you have a gate valve on the return to crank it back. Put valves on the drains for maintenance as well as if you want to go full siphon you'll need a valve to tune that. Also use plenty of unions so you can take apart the plumbing for maintenance. True union ball valves are probably your best bet since they are fairly cheap.

Ya I read that it might be too much. Strange thing is I used it on my 92 and did put a gate valve on but I just left it fully open. I couldn't really see any obvious issues with leaving it like that. How are you supposed to know if the pump is too much for a tank?
 
Yes don't glue the durso's so you can just pull them out if need be. If you glue it you'll have a miserable time removing a trapped snail or doing routine maintenance. A slight leak and the water will just flow down the pipe so no real risk in terms of leaks.

A pump is too much when the slurping noise it unbearable or your sandbed gets blown around. A herbie type drain system will let you run whatever flow you would like. (it will require that your return pipe goes up and over your tank)

If you decide to keep with the durso's you are really limited to about 600 actual GPHs with a herbie you can run about 1,500 at which time your overflows will be underwater.
 
Back
Top