Starting Hyposalinity today for ich

[MrsReefK]

Unfortunately we are battling ich. We purchased an established reef and all was good for about 6-7 weeks. We added 5 snails last week, and we're showing ich now. Our chosen treatment is Hyposalinity. I think I'm on information overload, can you help confirm if the plan below will be an ideal approach to help rid us of ich? We did not have a hospital tank ready or cycled, so the plan below is the best I have for now.

Current tank:
40g reef - Do 50% water change, put the removed 50% into 40g hospital tank
Remove skimmer from reef - place on hospital (is this OK? I see folks using HOB's, but why can't the reef run without the skimmer and put the skimmer on the hospital?)
Remove all fish - leave inverts and corals. (Should I feed them... weekly to get some food source for the inverts/corals?)
Leave tank with 0 fish for 72 days at the minimum

Hospital tank:
50% Water from current infested tank / 50% fresh SW - mix correctly to drop salinity to 11-12 PPT (1.008-1.009 SG). Drip acclimate fish to the PPT/SG mentioned, do this at this speed rather than slower so ich cannot adapt. (Is this correct)
Temp: 82* (is this right?)
Once the last spot of ich is gone, keep SG/PPT at the above numbers for 21 days. After day 21, raise SG/PPT back to normal numbers over 48 hours, be very cautious when raising as oxygen is an issue. Is 21 days enough?

I have read of others having ammonia and PH problems. Some mentioned baking soda as a solution, but didn't mention HOW it was a solution. What should we have on hand as an emergency fix for Ammonia and PH?

Thank you all, I know there's several ways to handle this, but would like to cover all topics in one area if possible.

Also, I'll have to tear down the entire tank, we have one goby that is a hider, only have seen him one time - when we transferred tanks originally. We know he's still alive, but living under rocks. Should be an interesting evening.

 

[MrsReefK]

Anyone? Heading to the store shortly, it's about an hour drive, so not something convenient if I forget something small/big. Thanks!

 

[snorvich]

Unfortunately we are battling ich. We purchased an established reef and all was good for about 6-7 weeks. We added 5 snails last week, and we're showing ich now. Our chosen treatment is Hyposalinity. I think I'm on information overload, can you help confirm if the plan below will be an ideal approach to help rid us of ich? We did not have a hospital tank ready or cycled, so the plan below is the best I have for now.

Current tank:
40g reef - Do 50% water change, put the removed 50% into 40g hospital tank

No, use newly mixed salt water for all treatment tanks

Remove skimmer from reef - place on hospital (is this OK? I see folks using HOB's, but why can't the reef run without the skimmer and put the skimmer on the hospital?)
Remove all fish - leave inverts and corals. (Should I feed them... weekly to get some food source for the inverts/corals?) yes
Leave tank with 0 fish for 72 days at the minimum

Hospital tank:
50% Water from current infested tank / 50% fresh SW - mix correctly to drop salinity to 11-12 PPT (1.008-1.009 SG). Drip acclimate fish to the PPT/SG mentioned, do this at this speed rather than slower so ich cannot adapt. (Is this correct) No. Use new salt water which matches salinity in current tank. Bring down the SG to 1.008/1.009 using RO/DI water.
Temp: 82* (is this right?) No. Cooler temperatures mean more dissolved oxygen in the water so about 76/77 F
Once the last spot of ich is gone, keep SG/PPT at the above numbers for 21 days. After day 21, raise SG/PPT back to normal numbers over 48 hours, be very cautious when raising as oxygen is an issue. Is 21 days enough?

No. Hyposalinity, is the least effective ich "treatment" and must be much longer than 21 days, ideally six weeks or longer

I have read of others having ammonia and PH problems. Some mentioned baking soda as a solution, but didn't mention HOW it was a solution. What should we have on hand as an emergency fix for Ammonia and PH?

Emergency ammonia fix is Prime or equivalent

Thank you all, I know there's several ways to handle this, but would like to cover all topics in one area if possible.

Also, I'll have to tear down the entire tank, we have one goby that is a hider, only have seen him one time - when we transferred tanks originally. We know he's still alive, but living under rocks. Should be an interesting evening.

Keep in mind that the best, most effective method to eliminate ich is tank transfer.

 

[MrsReefK]

Steve,

Thank you for the response. It is very helpful. I am fine with taking 6 weeks - as the DT needs 72 days being fishless. It doesn't bother me taking so long, they'll be in this tank either way. I'm setting up ATO along with a Salinity probe to my apex, so there's not much manually I'll have to do each day besides observe.

Why is the TTM so much more effective than this? Do you have a good thread or info to refer to on this that you can help with? I am willing to do anything and have the tanks (3 empty tanks right now, 1 40 and 2 20's) available if needed. Clock is ticking, leaving for the store in an hour, no pressure.

 

[MrsReefK]

Steve, I found your wonderful thread. I wish I would've found this last night, I would've chose this method. - http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2388428

So for TTM, we will setup the fish in fresh mixed SW to match the salinity of their current tank. I will not be putting on any type of filter, just PH's.
- Transfer the fish to a newly mixed tank that was washed with vinegar and dried no more than every 72 hours for 12 days (assuming transfers are on the 3rd day each time, could be more if done sooner)

After 12 days, all fish will remain in QT until the DT is ich free for 72 days.

All equipment needing two of:
Tanks
Heaters
Thermometer
PVC Elbows
Air tube & Air stone (need 4 of these, throw out after each transfer)
2 power heads
(I will treat with Prazipro, might as well while going through this)

What temp do you suggest? Any params I need to be watching during these changes?

 

[snorvich]

Steve, I found your wonderful thread. I wish I would've found this last night, I would've chose this method. - http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2388428

So for TTM, we will setup the fish in fresh mixed SW to match the salinity of their current tank. I will not be putting on any type of filter, just PH's.
- Transfer the fish to a newly mixed tank that was washed with vinegar and dried no more than every 72 hours for 12 days (assuming transfers are on the 3rd day each time, could be more if done sooner)

After 12 days, all fish will remain in QT until the DT is ich free for 72 days.

All equipment needing two of:
Tanks
Heaters
Thermometer
PVC Elbows
Air tube & Air stone (need 4 of these, throw out after each transfer)
2 power heads
(I will treat with Prazipro, might as well while going through this)

What temp do you suggest? Any params I need to be watching during these changes?

Exactly. I tend to keep my temperatures at 77/78 because dissolved oxygen is higher and that temperature is conveniently maintained without heaters. Prazipro should be two treatments a week a part, many do so during TTM.

 

[MrsReefK]

Exactly. I tend to keep my temperatures at 77/78 because dissolved oxygen is higher and that temperature is conveniently maintained without heaters. Prazipro should be two treatments a week a part, many do so during TTM.

This makes it much easier. The few descriptions I read were too complicated for such easy steps... :crazy1::crazy1:

Thank you again, the only negative I see where I have a downfall is that my tanks are only 8 feet from my DT, you suggest 10. They are in the same room, tank is already setup or I would move it. :headwally:

 

[snorvich]

This makes it much easier. The few descriptions I read were too complicated for such easy steps... :crazy1::crazy1:

Thank you again, the only negative I see where I have a downfall is that my tanks are only 8 feet from my DT, you suggest 10. They are in the same room, tank is already setup or I would move it. :headwally:

Not worth moving. The aerosol effect is quite real, however. For very vigorous water agitation (and hence greater aerosol effect), greater care must be employed.

 

[ThRoewer]

Cross-contamination via droplets is highly unlikely unless you have a massive and sustained outbreak in the originating tank and an airstone that aerosolizes the water of the infected tank. A cover on the hospital tank and turning off anything that generates droplets from the infected tank should be sufficient.

To be completely on the safe side I would combine hyposalinity and TTM.

 

[snorvich]

To be completely on the safe side I would combine hyposalinity and TTM.

By this hyposalinity, SG would be at 1.016/1.017 to help fish osmoregulate.

 

[MrsReefK]

Not worth moving. The aerosol effect is quite real, however. For very vigorous water agitation (and hence greater aerosol effect), greater care must be employed.

Awesome, I'll keep both tanks covered, there's not vigorous water agitation going on, should be alright.

Now... off to the store. Then an afternoon of catching fish, this should be fun. :hmm4:

 

[MrsReefK]

Cross-contamination via droplets is highly unlikely unless you have a massive and sustained outbreak in the originating tank and an airstone that aerosolizes the water of the infected tank. A cover on the hospital tank and turning off anything that generates droplets from the infected tank should be sufficient.



To be completely on the safe side I would combine hyposalinity and TTM.

Thanks much for the info!

 

[MrsReefK]

Well, store took much longer than expected. Temp of tank is not where I need it to be yet, so the first day in the hospital tank will have to be tomorrow. Thanks again for your guys help, made this much easier!

 

[Giovanni]

Cross-contamination via droplets is highly unlikely unless you have a massive and sustained outbreak in the originating tank and an airstone that aerosolizes the water of the infected tank. A cover on the hospital tank and turning off anything that generates droplets from the infected tank should be sufficient.

To be completely on the safe side I would combine hyposalinity and TTM.

There is no need for the added stress of hypo when doing TTM.

 

[MrsReefK]

There is no need for the added stress of hypo when doing TTM.

I'm doing TTM only. I do not know enough to try and cross two methods, TTM is supposed to be the most effective, I'm sticking to only TTM.

 

[ThRoewer]

There is no need for the added stress of hypo when doing TTM.

Hyposalinity is rather reducing stress than adding.

 

[snorvich]

Hyposalinity is rather reducing stress than adding.

What he said. Non therapeutic hyposalinity (1.016/1.017) reduces the osmo-regulatory stress for the fish.

 

[Giovanni]

What he said. Non therapeutic hyposalinity (1.016/1.017) reduces the osmo-regulatory stress for the fish.

Whey then don't we keep our fish at (1.016/1.017) all the time?

 

[MrsReefK]

Whey then don't we keep our fish at (1.016/1.017) all the time?

Great question, was wondering that myself. Is it a need to keep SG at 1.016/1.017 during TTM? What's the advantage?

 

[Giovanni]

Great question, was wondering that myself. Is it a need to keep SG at 1.016/1.017 during TTM? What's the advantage?

It is not a need. I have never done that. Also you can lower SG fairly quickly, but if you raise it fast you will stress or kill the fish.