Starting over and have some questions...please help if you can

Alex T.

Active member
After a year of vodka dosing and running a low nutrient system with undetectable nitrates and phosphates, my sps began to recede and stop growing. At first, I suspected flatworms. Then when I was speaking with someone I got many frags from at MACNA in Atlantic City last year, he confirmed that he was having a flatworm problem in his system.

I acted drastically and dosed twice the amount of Salifert Flatworm Exit and to my surprise...nothing! Then I set up a buffered freshwater dip, and again...nothing. I immediately knew I had rushed to judgement and just did something very stressful to my (up until then) fast growing colonies. I started checking at night with a flashlight at the base to see if there were any eggs, bitemarks or other predators crawling around. Then I decided that I would stop vodka dosing and begin feeding my fish a little more and feeding some Oyster Feast at night.

Within weeks I started to get a full on hair algae outbreak and everything has suffered tremendously for the last 5 months. In the meantime, so many things have happened that I can't point the finger at any one thing in particular. After a water test last month I found that my alkalinity was barely holding 6dkh while calicum had skyrocketed to 600. I slowly switched salt mixes to something a little higher in alkalinity that wouldn't throw my reactor's parameters out of sink. I also started dripping a very weak solution of kalkwasser at night and run gfo and carbon through a BRS reactor. I no longer have the hair algae, polyp extension and coloration is creeping back slowly, and 2 new frags are showing very healthy and promising signs. I've never missed a water change, and routinely perform 16% per week. Because my reactor has stabilized to the new salt brand's parameters, there is much less instability than before.

My parameters are as follows:

NO3: 5
PO4: undetectable (Salifert)
Calcium: 430
Alk: 9 to 10
Specific Gravity: 1.025
Magnesium: 1320

My tank is a 72" x 18" x 27" 150 with one center brace. Because of this I have two island structures under each "bay" with 400 watt Radium on new Galaxy e-ballast (love the look) over each bay. This is complimented by 216 watts of actinic lighting as well. For circulation I have an Iwaki 30 RLXT returning from the sump/refugium with 4 (that's right 4) Vortech MP40's on alternating reef crest mode. Flow is extreme and chaotic, but no corals get pounded for any length of time due to the randomness of the pump program.

My main question is this: Even though I'm slowly inching my way back and not running an extremely low nutrient system, will nitrates at 5 ppm be an obstacle in keeping my sps from coloring up and calcifying. I know I have plenty of light and flow, and my skimmer (ETSS 900 with Iwaki 55 RLT) skims wet at half a gallon of crud a day. I feed much less than I used to do while vodka dosing.

Sorry for making you read a novel. I just wanted to try and get it all down so that I minimize the amount of further questions I may have to answer for the pros out there.

Thank you in advance.
 
My main question is this: Even though I'm slowly inching my way back and not running an extremely low nutrient system, will nitrates at 5 ppm be an obstacle in keeping my sps from coloring up and calcifying.


5ppm nitrate will not pose a problem of any kind:) Sorry to hear about all of your troubles, but I can definitely relate as I have had more than my share as well:rolleyes:
 
I definitely share your pain. Six months ago, I had red slime and GHA outbreak and I did drastic things like put in many different types of filter media, removed the 11 years old sand bed (it was really dirty and smelly) and started dosing remedies. I made the water parameters totally unstable and I paid the price. Several SPS died, some zoa closed up. Now I have stabilized the system somewhat and the color of SPS slowly goes from brown to green and back to original color. The lesson I learned is to change the water parameters very very slowly. My NO3 is now 5ppm and seems to be okay. PO4 is zero from Hanna.:bounce3:
 
Thanks Westreef,

I guess misery loves company. Good to hear that you're back on track. Nitrate seems to be hovering between 2.5 and 5 ppm. I started feeding a little less. That will be the only dosing I'm going to do from now on. Not that vodka doesn't work...I just don't think we know enough about its' long term effects yet. Growth and coloration go crazy, and then it's almost like I hit a wall and started sliding backwards into the abyss!
 
don't dose vodka everyday if you are to do it again

i used to dose Vodka everyday to my 29g BC until the 2 month mark, i started gett cyano and my corals started to react badly, i stopped dosing for over 6 months and got things stable again

i then went back to Vodka dosing but only dose it 2-3 times a week now with good results, this method has worked for me and made me realize you can still get the good effects of Vodka without the negatives as long as you don't daily dose

i know some people still daily dose but from my experiece it hasn't led to good results

you should set the skimmer so it doesen't pull so much wet, kindof a dark tea green so that way you aren't just emptying it out for the hell of it, also the darker it is the more concentrated the DOC's your pulling out are

i don't believe 5ppm of nitrate would have any ill affect
 
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How stable is your specific gravity in your tank? With pulling 1/2gal of skim each day, do you top off with salt water also?

-Chris
 
Lyfey,

My specific gravity hovers between 1.025 and 1.026 tested with refroctometer. My ETSS 900 really does pull a lot of gunk. I have sort of an odd type of filtration system I came up with. Both of my drains empty into a large Rubbermaid tub with no baffling. This tub keeps water for a longer period of time rather than moving it through swiftly. Because of the high flow rate of the skimmer, the longer water circulates in the tub, the better. From here, I have a 29 gallon refugium drilled and plumbed to the Rubbermaid sump. Chaeto used to occupy that space, but has since died off as nutrients fell. It's now filled with live rock and a BRS Dual phosphate and carbon reactor. From here, water is returned back to the display via an Iwaki 30 RLXT. I think the reason I pull so much is how long water sits in my sump. When the ETSS builds a foam head, it can pour a liter of gunk in 5 or six hours. When I set it up initially, I had the same concern regarding specific gravity.

So, to make a short story long and answer your question, specific gravity is actually my most stable parameter.
 
OH ok, was asking because I just upgraded from a DAS EX-1 to a ATB small 2.0 and I noticed a big change in SG cause my collection cup holds alot more yuk.

I shot out my thoughts, anyone else have any ideas for a fellow New joisian?
 
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