Still struggling to get good coral pics with my SLR....

[reefdude135]

Recty, thx for the feedback! I think there is some level of diffraction; beause of where I am capturing this subject, there was a bit of an angle. I'll try a more straight-on approach. I'll hopefully remember to shut off the pumps this time!

I have some old pieces of clear acrylic laying aound; wish it was black. I'll see if I can find a source.

I find it interesting that the better pic was the one using the pre-set macro mode. Interesting!

Reef Bass: this tank has a lot of corals (five small to medium SPS colonies) intertwined. It's just a very busy area! For some of the coral (i.e. the green slimer pic), it would be impossible to put anything behind it, as a bonsai colony and it are grown into each other. The colony located immediately behind the tort is fused together with another acro. I don't even think the black drop cloth would work!

btw: the provided shots are wonderful! thx for the inspiration!

Dr Blue Thumb: just started to learn about histogram..... and I'll work more with that tool. Great suggestion!

 

[reefdude135]

A few shots..... more focus on keeping the tripod steady (it's a Best Buy $25 total POS), and also ensuring a straight on shot to minimize difraction. I need to work on using the histogram next.

Thoughts?

 

[Recty]

Better every time you post

As far as the tripod goes, you can always hang a weight on it to make it more sturdy but you shouldnt need it inside with no wind affecting you at all. Are you using the timer feature of the camera like I've mentioned a couple times? That's really all you need, along with a tripod, to get literally 0 detectable camera shake on an indoors shot. Set it for 10 seconds, or 2 if you want, and take the picture, then wait. You shaking the camera by pushing the shutter release will have long since worn off and calmed down if you're using the 10 second timer and even the 2 second is probably plenty.

I think at this point in your progress, you just need to work on subject. Right now, you're choosing two pretty poor subjects. The green slimer has so many branches sticking every which way you'll never be able to get a good shot that doesnt have something distracting to the human eye. Out of focus branches between the camera and the point of focus ruins the shot. And to an extent, not out of focus enough branches behind the point of focus also detract from it. Basically, that coral is never going to be an AMAZING subject, it's just too busy.

The blue one is better but only slightly so. It's got tons of arms going on. You need a smaller coral with some point you can really focus on. And with the blue coral, it has so many other corals of similar color behind it that you just lose all your detail because it just looks like a big blue photo. If it was black behind the coral you're taking the photo of, it would be a better shot but still pretty busy.

That little goby is cool. It would be a much better shot if you had his eye in focus but unfortunately you have the focus about 2 inches in front of him. He is still decent but definitely not sharp. Since that's IMMEDIATELY where the human eye is drawn when looking at that picture, you really need it (and especially the eye) to be in focus otherwise it just never looks right.

You're definitely posting way better photos than when you started this thread though, keep up the good work and learning

 

[reefdude135]

Thanks for all the fedback! I feel I have learned a ton via all the insight here.

My tripod is well beyond horrible. I am using the 10 second timer, as it is still visably moving after 2 seconds. Very disappointing. It also presents a huge challenge to maintain the level. I need to get something else... soon.

Once i get the new tripod, I'll try with some new subjects.

 

[kissman]

Are you shooting with a true 1:1 ratio macro lens? Some lenses claim to be macro and arent a true macro is a 1:1. Another thing on my dslr if i am in manual and just press the shutter button but not take a pic it will give me a light meter reading and then i can adjust f stop ans shutter speed to the light. Hope it helps

 

[twilson]

These final ones really turned out. Would you mind posting what your actually settings were on the camera? I am struggling throughnsomemof the same issues.

 

[reefdude135]

Thx for the kind words! I am working on more improvement. I fixed my wobbly tripod (yeah!) and my next step will be to acquire some black acrylic.

The final settings were 1/15, f 4.5, and ISO 100.

 

[reefdude135]

I've acquired some black acrylic...we'll be breaking out the (repaired) tripod soon!

 

[reefdude135]

I grabbed a few pics on my friend's tank. The acrylic was hard to get in the back of the subject (a symphyllia) without totally re-arranging the tank (I'll have to work on modifying these acrylic pieces for increased maneuverability). Anyway a few shots.... feedback welcome!

 

[troopa]

You have progressed so much mate. Congrats to you! I would maybe up the contrast and nip the saturation up in post process just for a deeper colourful look!

 

[reefdude135]

Thanks! Looming at these last two pics, it's like "wow! Where did that photo come from?"

Much appreciation to the RC Photography communty for the coaching!

 

[Misled]

OK, now start using elements. I went over the second pic a bit and removed the snow. Also a little shadowing, contrast, and sharpening.

 

[reefdude135]

Wow! That was quite an imorovement! I had kept the photo work pretty basic with Elements.

when opening, I adjusted color temp/tint, and cropped. Then, in Edit mode, all that was done was "Unsharpen Mask" and "save as jpg."

Curious on:

- What function did you use to remove snow...and was that applied to the entire photo?
- what Elements function is best to add clarity and sharpness?
- how much did you sharpen and how much contrast was added?

Thx!!

 

[Misled]

- What function did you use to remove snow...and was that applied to the entire photo?

I use the clone stamp tool. You pick a clean area then drag over the area you wish to change.

- what Elements function is best to add clarity and sharpness?

Some can be done in the first raw window. It's in the Detail tab on the right. This doesn't change things much, but also doesn't affect the or degrade the photo. The other is in the bottom of the enhance tab after opening the photo. I don't do over 3 on the radius, and adjust the amount by eye.

- how much did you sharpen and how much contrast was added?

Thx!!

I answered the sharpening. On the contrast, there wasn't very much. The thing that brings more out in the pic is the shadowing in the Original box that opens when you go to edit. You don't have much control in this window, but you can adjust the histogram somewhat. Your pic was a bit over exposed, so I toned that down some and that brought the colors up more. You also control some shadowing and highlights in the enhance tab in the second window.

HTH and you're welcome.

 

[reefdude135]

Hi folks.. I have been thinking about acquiring a macro lens. These pics were with the Nikon 28-80 lens, a.good basic lens, on a Nikon D50. Would this basic dslr benefit from a macro lens?

 

[Robb in Austin]

Yes. I'd recommend something in the 100mm range for decent working distance, vs a 50 or 60.