STN base peeling away, lack of light?

neuro

the cat did it
It's been hot here, and my controller has my MH's off for at least the week or two. I have had actinics on only at these times. I've raised the overheat temperature from 82 to 84 now.

I monitor PH, alk and calc weekly. No swings; only thing different that has changed was the hot weather and the MHs being off:


My red planet colony (about 6"x6"x7") has started to STN at the areas where the actinics didn't reach it--around the base, and any areas where there was some shadowing. The temps today finally reached a level where I can keep my MH on, and I JUST noticed the STN today.

Has anyone seen this? A search tells me only of 1 or 2 anecdotes where a similar situation happened, but no confirmation.
 
If your parameters are indeed correct (it would help to see the numbers - that's what the above poster meant by posting the link) I think it's a combination of temperature and lack of light.

Is there any way you an at least get a fan to blow over your sump? Quite often that enough to drop you're temp a couple degrees. Then you can run your lights .
 
I feel it's the lack of light. I personally don't worry much about my temps until they get above 86ish. It happens very rarely and only for short periods of time, but corals seem unfazed.
 
My tank sits anywhere from 78-84 with no problems at all.

I feel it's the lack of light. I personally don't worry much about my temps until they get above 86ish. It happens very rarely and only for short periods of time, but corals seem unfazed.

Thanks guys, this is good info, and huge relief. thank you! This makes me feel better about higher temps (assuming I don't go above 85 or 86).

If your parameters are indeed correct (it would help to see the numbers - that's what the above poster meant by posting the link) I think it's a combination of temperature and lack of light.

Is there any way you an at least get a fan to blow over your sump? Quite often that enough to drop you're temp a couple degrees. Then you can run your lights .

Totally almost forgot about using a fan! I think I'll put a fan up and see how low I can get the water to go. Answer about the numbers below:


Sorry for not posting parameters, I wanted to get experienced responses so I automatically assumed that veteran SPS keepers would understand what I meant when I said, " I monitor PH, alk and calc weekly. No swings; only thing different that has changed was ...". For those who are curious about my parameters/status are/were:

Alk: 8.5 (no swings)
Calc: 450
Phosphates: 0
Dosing has not changed
Salt has not changed (type and salinity is the same)
Water changes @11-15% a week with temperate water, as always measured with refractometer, never an issue.
Running GFO, changed once prior to heatwave, no observable stress or issues before the heatwave.
No bugs or pests, only occasional cyano that gets siphoned out every week

thanks guys. it's too late. i had to frag the colony and some pieces didn't make it by this morning. Hopefully the other pieces will grow.
 
Also for research purposes:

- No other acro in my tank has problems. I have about 7+ kinds in my tank.
- The red planet is the only one sitting farthest from light, about 2.25 ft away from light
- Red planet had been growing extremely fast. Multiple new nodes/branches growing within a month.
- All other acros sit at the top, probably about 1.5 ft away from lights
- My tank size is about 60-70 gallons
- BB / barebottom
- Never had issues with keeping SPS until this extended heatwave.
- Tank is 1.5 years old, had one crash during new year's, 8 months ago, and things bounced back quickly within a month.
- Had previous issues with planaria prior to crash, treated and never came back.
 
imo i would point to lack of light also. the temps you are at will be ok, i prefer under 80, but without enough lighting for extended periods will definitely cause stn at the base. happened to me when i lowered lighting period to battle algae.

i see 2 options. turn halides back on for 4 hours a day or so to start and hope temps to go over 86 or add chiller.
 
I agree with light, some of my tabling acros will have problems at the base when they get real tight growth. I try to cut a little section out to let light in when possible. It doesn't take much light to keep the base alive but they do get too shaded at times.
 
imo i would point to lack of light also. the temps you are at will be ok, i prefer under 80, but without enough lighting for extended periods will definitely cause stn at the base. happened to me when i lowered lighting period to battle algae.

i see 2 options. turn halides back on for 4 hours a day or so to start and hope temps to go over 86 or add chiller.

that's a good compromise, great advice, thank you. anecdotal info like this is what i was looking for. i can stomach 85/86 as long as coiral are ok with it.

I agree with light, some of my tabling acros will have problems at the base when they get real tight growth. I try to cut a little section out to let light in when possible. It doesn't take much light to keep the base alive but they do get too shaded at times.

I was thinking just the same: make sure tabling acros don't grow over themselves next time. the red planet I had definitely had grown a shelf over parts of itself. that's where most of the major damage occurred.
 
It's true about the temp and corals but the fish don't care for 86 much. Not a whole Lotta oxygen.

Not true, the main change is the peak saturation levels, and fish can and do thrive at levels well below saturation. Also, the difference in those saturation levels at say 80 vs. 86 is small enough that it's almost not worth talking about.
 
My stylo colony have the same issue one side of base peeling off every other acro seems fine i also think it is lack of light i had cut few branches on that side to see if that works
 
Not true, the main change is the peak saturation levels, and fish can and do thrive at levels well below saturation. Also, the difference in those saturation levels at say 80 vs. 86 is small enough that it's almost not worth talking about.
You may be right but compared to 78 it's about 12% less. That's not small enough to call stable.
 
Not true, the main change is the peak saturation levels, and fish can and do thrive at levels well below saturation. Also, the difference in those saturation levels at say 80 vs. 86 is small enough that it's almost not worth talking about.

You may be right but compared to 78 it's about 12% less. That's not small enough to call stable.

My tank is supposed to be at 78, but in practice, it averages 80. I would say the change from 80 to 86 would be on the far end of the bell curve, my tank has never hit 86, and the highest is 82.5 degrees. (readings taken from reef controller logs).

I forgot to mention, at the same time, one of my anthias decided to take a forever-nap. I still have two clowns and one anthias (male). All seem healthy with no issues. I don't know if there is a correlation, and at this point I can't prove it. I've never had luck with fish in general so I can't say for sure.

My stylo colony have the same issue one side of base peeling off every other acro seems fine i also think it is lack of light i had cut few branches on that side to see if that works

Most of the colony is gone. I have a few frags left, but I don't think they're going to make it. I even cut the frags far away from the 'peeling' edges, but only to see the peeling happening anyways on the new cut frags. It's like the entire base sent out a signal to start peeling at gradual intervals. How are your cuttings doing so far?
 
Definitely could be the anthias giving off some bad stuff when it passed.
I usually change my carbon in an event like that and do a pretty big wc to know my parameters are back to better. Then ride it out trying to keep alk as stable as I can.
 
This fan keeps it under 80 no problem. You get a lot of evap but oh well.

ATTACH]
 
Definitely could be the anthias giving off some bad stuff when it passed.
I usually change my carbon in an event like that and do a pretty big wc to know my parameters are back to better. Then ride it out trying to keep alk as stable as I can.

This fan keeps it under 80 no problem. You get a lot of evap but oh well.

ATTACH]

thanks lynch. i think i'm going to do a large water change this weekend. probably %30 or so.
 
My tank is supposed to be at 78, but in practice, it averages 80. I would say the change from 80 to 86 would be on the far end of the bell curve, my tank has never hit 86, and the highest is 82.5 degrees. (readings taken from reef controller logs).

I forgot to mention, at the same time, one of my anthias decided to take a forever-nap. I still have two clowns and one anthias (male). All seem healthy with no issues. I don't know if there is a correlation, and at this point I can't prove it. I've never had luck with fish in general so I can't say for sure.



Most of the colony is gone. I have a few frags left, but I don't think they're going to make it. I even cut the frags far away from the 'peeling' edges, but only to see the peeling happening anyways on the new cut frags. It's like the entire base sent out a signal to start peeling at gradual intervals. How are your cuttings doing so far?

Natural reefs hit 86 with regularity and without issue to corals and fish. It's when things start getting in the upper 80's for extended periods of time that things get dicey. Some of the most diverse and healthy natural reefs in the indo pacific have an average temp of around 82f. Just something to keep in mind when you're looking at 82 being the highest temp your tank has ever seen. Also, there is nothing stable about the temps on a natural reef...
 
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