Strategies for drain and return lines through garage wall

[theatrus]

My system currently sits up against the garage wall. As part of upgrade plans, I'd like to run the sump in the garage, which means plumbing and wiring between the house and the garage. Since this is a fire rated wall, what strategies have people used for routing the PVC and electrical between?

I'm aware of the fire-stop collars for plastic pipe, but would like to retain open conduit for sensors + other control wiring. Is this possible, or is the only real way to use the proper rated sealant?

 

[d2mini]

I'm curious what's different about this wall vs the others in the house?
I have the same setup (you can check out my build thread in Reef Discussion) and when I cut holes through the wall it seemed like any other wall.
I even had to cut out a fairly large hole about 24x10 to fit an overflow box that literally sits in the wall.

 

[theatrus]

The garage wall barrier is fire-rated and any cutouts need to be of the same rating, at least in my house.

 

[d2mini]

So you have some kind of fire barrier?
As far as I'm aware, the only "fire rated" thing about my garage is they used 5/8" sheetrock.
But I have several holes for pvc or the big window I mentioned above. Although technically they are all now in a room that is in the garage since I just put up a couple walls, to wall off the fish room from the rest of the garage.

 

[slief]

I've got lines and electrical that I ran through my exterior wall into a shed where my holding tanks are. I used a hole saw to put 2" PVC size holes as well as a 1" PVC size hole through the wall which is how I routed my electrical and plumbing. I ran a length of each pipe through the hole to join my closet to the shed and provide a tunnel for the water lines and electrical. I then used spray in foam insulation to seal the lines into the wall as well as the lines going though the PVC pipe to insure that the voids were sealed and air tight. If you go this route, I would suggest adding an extra pipe through the wall for future use. You never know when you may want to expand or need to run an additional line or wire. Having the extra pipe though the wall can come in handy down the line and you could always cap it off with some PVC caps.

 

[Barney97]

My system currently sits up against the garage wall. As part of upgrade plans, I'd like to run the sump in the garage, which means plumbing and wiring between the house and the garage. Since this is a fire rated wall, what strategies have people used for routing the PVC and electrical between?

I'm aware of the fire-stop collars for plastic pipe, but would like to retain open conduit for sensors + other control wiring. Is this possible, or is the only real way to use the proper rated sealant?

There are fire rated boxes and fillers that you can buy that will allow you to run wires through the fire rated wall. Something along these lines http://www.abesco.net/

I am not recommending that company they are just the only one I have heard of. I have never used their products but those are the type of products you would need. I believe 3M also makes stuff and I am sure there are hundreds more out there

 

[uncleof6]

Always check with the local Authority Having Jurisdiction, before messing with anything that can even remotely have building and/or other code involvement. Although local codes will seldom if ever be less restrictive, they can often be more restrictive.

According to the IRC (International Residential Code) dictates most of the codes that apply to modern construction: (some does not apply to your situation.)

"Unlike separations between dwelling units, the separation between a residence and the garage attached or detached is not a fire resistance rated assembly. Likewise, penetrations through the separation are not required to meet the rated penetration requirements for fire-resistant assemblies."

That said, generally what they are looking for is a limited resistance to the spread of fire, rather than a fire rated wall. 1/2" gypsum board (drywall) from floor to the underside of the roof sheathing takes care of that. There are also requirements for the door from the garage to the residence, (1 3/8" wood solid core, or steel) but again it need not be fire rated. Interestingly, the door must be equipped with a self-closer device. Large openings obviously not.

What you need to be concerned with is:

A) Openings from the garage into a sleeping room are prohibited. (Openings being any door, or other penetrations.)

B) Ducts are not permitted to open into the garage. Other penetrations, such as steel or plastic pipe, require only that the space around the penetrations be filled with approved materials, such as fire-resistant caulking.

 

[theatrus]

Thanks uncle!

Of course, talking with various groups (city and contractors), I've gotten various levels of opinions on the situation (as all code interpretation seems to entail). Often the knowledge stops at "using approved fire control mechanisms and devices," which could be anything from rated caulk to fancier stuff.

What you need to be concerned with is:

A) Openings from the garage into a sleeping room are prohibited. (Openings being any door, or other penetrations.)

B) Ducts are not permitted to open into the garage. Other penetrations, such as steel or plastic pipe, require only that the space around the penetrations be filled with approved materials, such as fire-resistant caulking.

This is also the only consistent advice I've gotten on the matter