Stream 6110 problem

[SPC]

I have been running my 6110 with Singlecontroler for about one month. Last night after the food timer went off the alarm sounded for the first time sense I have owned this unit. I cleaned out the suction housing (not much cleaning needed, only around 5% was blocked and checked for any other blockage. I pluged the unit back in after 15 minutes and it ran all night.
Today I turned up the speed to about 50% and the alarm went off again. I decided to clean the entire unit but this did not help as the unit will not restart as the alarm continues to sound.
Also, when I put the unit back together I noticed that the red O ring seal was loose in the drive shaft housing (by loose I mean it was towards the top of the drive shaft housing). I looked at the directions but do not see where this O ring is supposed to fit exactly.
Thanks for your help,
Steve

 

[rvitko]

Something is out of alignment, most likely when the unit was shipped to you the top bushing came loose, it took a while to work loose enough to sound the alarm. If you have fine sand particles could be creating excessive friction. The red O ring is a vibration dampner that goes on the bottom of the lower bearing, the complete dissassembly is illustrated on page 48 you will see piece 3h (oring) goes on piece 3g. Make sure piece 3a is completely and firmly inserted also make sure piece 3f is not dragging or attached to piece 3g as the result of sand or calcium deposits.

 

[SPC]

Yes, when I plug it now I hear it rattle as if it is trying to start and then unplug it immediately of course. I have cleaned it 3 times but have not taken the top bushing out, is this what I need to do? And if so, what am I looking for?
Steve

 

[rvitko]

You do know that if you are starting it dry the alarm is going to sound? All you should do is make sure this bushing is inserted firmly, push on it. Make absolutely certain the lower bushing(with Oring) and the magnet spin freely on each other, if these are sticking these will cause an alarm, fill the magnet cavity with water, place the propeller assembly in and now place it in the water. If this doesn't do it, check out the brake assembly, has fine sand or debris obstructed this assembly? Also some alarm for a few seconds on start up is normal if air is present in the cavity, this is also a run dry alarm. The alarm cuts the power only allowing renergizing of the coil every 10sec. Do not worry so much about damaging the pump, this is near impossible, if you cannot get it, I will advise you to return it to me and I can repair it. It is some simple obstruction to the brakes or bearings, their really are no other possiblities.

 

[SPC]

Posted by Roger:
Make absolutely certain the lower bushing(with Oring) and the magnet spin freely on each other, if these are sticking these will cause an alarm,

-OK, this is the problem. I have taken this assembly apart (hope I can get the breaks back in the right way) and see where there is a calcium build up already which is impedeing the spin of the bushing.
Thanks,
Steve

 

[rvitko]

Double check water parameters, that pump is designed to resist the build up calcium, my typical observations of aquaria that cause this problem on our pumps is excessive use of Magnesium supplements, high KH or overuse of Kalkwasser. Normally a pump should go at least 3 months between cleaning. I have always used 1part white vinegar to 1 part warm water but I have heard CLR is a good product, just rinse thoroughly.

Roger

 

[SPC]

Hi Roger, everything back together and running well .

PH = 8.17 - 8.3
Alk = 3.25
Cal = 400

- This is the first pump of this kind I have run in salt water. I have never used power heads and only relied on my return pump for circulation (Amp Master 3000).
I have been running the pump on the lowest setting and just began to turn it up yesterday. I have it on a 180, but wide open was too much to start with.
I do use kalk as well as Bionic 2 part for supplements, don't dose Magnesium.
Thanks again for your help,
Steve