Stupid Question?

Funky_Fish14

New member
Hello Everyone,

So I have a question that I know is rather stupid. Now, im sure I know the answer, but just making sure.

At first, for some reason, I had thought that I could run an external pump on my sump that would draw water from inside the sump, up and over the side of the sump, and back down to the pump(Basically, without drilling a hole in the side of the sump). :rolleyes:

Im not even sure the pump would start sucking, even if you primed it? Haha.

So obviously, the only option is to drill the side of the sump?

Thanks!

Chris
 
it should work fine if you have a way of priming it, unless the pump is above the water line. You can't run a line into the sump then have the return pump mounted much higher than the water. From what it sounds though your pump is below the water line which should work just fine if you can get it primed. Cheers
 
So your saying that if I can get water where the water line is(Say by pumping water into it with a powerhead(A T above the intake would be too risky due to it sucking air if improperly sealed)

PumpSchematic.jpg


This should work? But in the event of a power outage, even with a siphon break, the pump is not likely to start again reliably, because the water flowing back down is likely going to have enough energy to empty it down to half the water level I could get it to when primed.

Thanks.

Chris
 
Actually, I guess I could T the intake above the waterline, provided it is sealed, while still having both intakes below the sump water level, and run a maxi-jet powerhead's output (Should start back up after a power outage) into one of the T's? In this way I would not leak air, and it would still be able to prime the pump after a power outage? This is my biggest concern with this system. Initial priming is nothing.

Thanks!

Chris
 
It should work you may even have enough water in the line to prime itself. It may take a minute but it may work. Since it's easy to setup tryit and make your own power outage to see what happens. You could also use oversized tube before the pump to increase the water volume left in it. A check valve would also solve the problem but be warned that check valves will fail eventually.
 
That is how I have both of my sumps, I didn't drill either one.
The key it to have a "T" at the highest point, with a cap on it, that way
you can prime the line.

Here are some pictures of my set up.

Over all shot.

P5240040.jpg


Intake within the sump's return section - the bigger pipe in the back
corner - the smaller ones are for my carbon shelf.

P5240043.jpg



Leaving the sump, the larger piece is a check valve (it is only used
to hold the prime when the pump is off, I do NOT count on it to stop
all flow into the sump, there is a syphon break in my return line)

P5240044.jpg


The "T" with screw cap - allows me to prime the line. Use Teflon tape on the threads.

P5240045.jpg


I have some more pictures if you need, but hopefully the above will help explain how it works.

HTH
 
Thank-you very much for all the tips! I've actually elected to be safer and just get the sump drilled... If it cracks, my dad will buy me a new one! Haha.

It would actually cost the same in plumbing to go up and over and back down to get the hole drilled. The hole should be more reliable(No priming).

Thank-you very much!
 
that IMO is the best way to go :)

get the bulkhead before you drill to make sure you know what size hole you need different brands/types =different sized holes.
 
Well, I work at the LFS, so when I drop off the tank, I can just look at the plumbing section, haha. Same Senario for the tank im having built. Thanks for the tip though! Is there really alot of variation? Or should most 1.5" bulkheads go into a '1.5' inch hole?

Chris
 
1.5" bulkheads should go in a 2.25" hole I think.

1" bulkheads go in 1 3/4" hole...

Most of them are the same, but occasionally the cheap ones will have wierd dimensions.
 
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