Styrofoam under tank

[rrasco]

I know people use styrofoam under their tanks to reduce pressure points on the tank. My question is, for a large tank, how do you put the tank on the styrofoam without destroying it? Normally with my large tanks I set the edge of the tank on the stand and slide it into position. I can't do that with the styrofoam on the stand. This is a standard 210, so it's not the easiest to maneuver. I don't have styrofoam on my other two large tanks (125 and 150) but those are on commercial stands. The 210 is going on a stand I built and I'm doubting it's 100% flat.

 

[letoan]

I know people use styrofoam under their tanks to reduce pressure points on the tank. My question is, for a large tank, how do you put the tank on the styrofoam without destroying it? Normally with my large tanks I set the edge of the tank on the stand and slide it into position. I can't do that with the styrofoam on the stand. This is a standard 210, so it's not the easiest to maneuver. I don't have styrofoam on my other two large tanks (125 and 150) but those are on commercial stands. The 210 is going on a stand I built and I'm doubting it's 100% flat.

I used 1/4 styrofoam (for insulation at home depot), it's come in a big sheet, put the tank over it and use a razor blade to trim the excess.

I also use molding to hide that 1/4" foam to make the tank looks more appealing to the eye.

 

[dzfish17]

I had a similar situation when I put the styrofoam under my tank. I fixed the problem by putting a 1/4" piece of melamine on top of the styrofoam and then the tank slid into place fairly easy.

 

[Telaverus]

I did the same as Letoan with my 250, had an oversized piece and cut off the extra.

 

[rrasco]

I was doing more reading and I know this could be a fairly confrontational question, but should I even use styrofoam? My tank has a trim, which some people say means you should not use the foam between the tank and stand. However, while my stand is about 95% level, the ends are slightly lower that the rest, one corner front to back and one from side to side. This means the time won't be 100% in contact with the stand, unless it bows. That is a problem. The argument I have seen to not use foam on rimmed tanks is because it compresses enough it creates upward pressure on the bottom of the glass. I measured the gap between the bottom pane of glass and the bottom of the trim, it's 3/4". If I got foam 3/4" thick or smaller, it couldn't possibly create upward pressure on the bottom pane, could it?

 

[dzfish17]

No, it cant. The styrofoam under my tank only compressed about 1/8" and my tank with water is around 6000 lbs.

 

[Plumbcrazy]

I have never put foam under any of my tanks. What is the main reason for this?

 

[rrasco]

To act as a 'gap filler' if the tank is not 100% flush on the stand.

 

[Telaverus]

My tank was a flat glass bottom, I was assuming yours was the same, don't no why.

I have read about not using styrofoam under a rimmed tank also. What you could do is use the thin pink foam from HD, it's the stuff you use when you are putting 2x4's on a concrete floor I think it's about 4" wide on a role. Use two layers of it from the sounds of your level issue. Your gaps won't be that much under the rim so this will do the trick. Your tank won't be able to push down far enough to have the buttom of the glass touch the foam.

 

[Red_Blenny]

I read that it's a no-no if you use styrofoam under a tank that's supported by the edges but it's okay if the tank is supported by the whole bottom (assuming it's flushed with the stand).

 

[betamed]

tanks with trim don't normally use foam.

 

[syrinx]

Originally the acrylic tanks required a styrofoam base- this was in the early days of there production. There have been a few glass tank builders that have suggested the same. Unless your builder requires styro- to me it is a urban myth to use it. It to me is similar to how when haligen bulbs came out, and the directions were not to touch them with fingers, or the oils could cause them to shatter. People took that bit of information and applied it to SE halides and everything else. All I know is in the building trade- if something weight bearing needs to be level- the last thing anyone would do is put styro under it! Of all the tank lines I have retailed- other than a couple of acrylic lines from the late 80`s- no manufacturer has recommended styro - just tank on stand- level stand.

 

[SC Reefaholic]

tanks with trim don't normally use foam.

+1

 

[rrasco]

Well....my tank does have a trim, but my stand is not 100% level. It is almost perfect, but it is slightly out of tolerance on an end or two, but not by much. I've disregarded this same issue with smaller tanks (40 long, 55), but the 210 has me worried. What should I do then?

 

[syrinx]

Get a six foot level, determine how much it is out of level and shim under the stand. Remember also that a full tank will sometimes go out of level as it weights the floor. If you are talking a slight lack of level-say 1/8th or so over 6 feet you should be fine. As I said that much change is common upon filling.

 

[rrasco]

That's not the kind of level I'm talking about, that way it's fine. I mean the trim of the tank is not 100% flush with the stand, there are gaps between the plastic and wood.

 

[dzfish17]

That's not the kind of level I'm talking about, that way it's fine. I mean the trim of the tank is not 100% flush with the stand, there are gaps between the plastic and wood.

I would put the foam on the stand and then put a piece of plywood on top of the foam for the tank to sit on. You wont have to worry about the frame sitting on the foam.

 

[joegoersch]

Why not put a little plaster on top of the stand to make a level surface?

 

[NanoReefWanabe]

To act as a 'gap filler' if the tank is not 100% flush on the stand.

foam SHOULD NOT be used to true a stand...if the top of the stand is out of true and the tank dont sit flush, fix the stand...that is all there is to it...take a 6ft level, find the high spots in the stand and remove them...once the high spots are removed, shim the stand to the floor to get it level...There is no questions about this...using foam to correct a funky top will do nothing to true it and you will likely still blow out the tank once full, as a result of uneven pressure being applied to the glass...

Why not put a little plaster on top of the stand to make a level surface?

plaster does not have the density nor the durability we would require under a tank...you could however, place the stand where it is going to rest, shim the stand dead level on the bottom, the frame up the side of the top and pour in a 1/8" or so of self leveling epoxy, strip the frame work off and set tank on perfectly smooth level epoxy top...

 

[rrasco]

No matter how much effort I put into it, the top of the stand will never be 100% flush, I can guarantee that. There is no way to eyeball level when you are sanding, etc, even with a level. Trust me, I've tried on previous stands. It typically ends up worse.