Sump Baffles

GiantBen

New member
I've decided I'm going to put some baffles in my sump. The main reasons are two fold:

(1) Restrict the amount of water that can get pumped out of the sump if my overflow gets clogged. This is the main reason. It will ensure that the heater stays under water and the tank doesn't overflow if somehow the overflow cloggs.

(2) If I want to add a fuge in the future, I'll have the space baffled off and won't have to drain the sump to add it.


Right now I am thiking just two baffles. A 10-1/4" baffle on one end, to create a section for the skimmer, reactor pump, filter socks. Another one at the opposit end of the sump that is 9-3/4", which will create an area purely for housing the return pump. This will leave me about a 18" long and 9-3/4" deep section in the middle. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

Also, I was planning on 1/4" acrylic from tap plastics, but would 1/8" be okay?
 
If you are having to do a baffle for those reasons then you might have other issues latter,

Having the sump partitioned you will have less water before the pump start to run dry so you will have to top off more often.

If the return pump run dry for extended amount of time it might get burned out. I would wpend the time and effort in making sure the overflow doesn't get clogged up.

Having a small fuge is better than not having one, but the benefit is not that great to go through all that trouble.
 
I see your point on the pump. My main thinking was that I'd rather have the pump wrecked than the floor. I have an ATO with a 5 gallon resevoir, so I'm not currently too concerned with top-off. I'll just need to make sure that the baflled area + 5 gallons wouldn't flood the display.

I am thinking I'll probably want the small fuge at some point. Since the tank isn't setup yet, I don't see the baffles as being too much trouble. Just buy acrylic, and seal it into place. If I don't do it now, I do think it would be a pain to add later.
 
Also, I was planning on 1/4" acrylic from tap plastics, but would 1/8" be okay?

In my experience I’d go 1/4. I know it may cost more but when you clean it the baffle will not bow, you have more contact to the sump to glue and silicone.
 
Sounds good, I'll stick with the 1/4"...btw, did you just say cleaning the sump? Not sure that will be an issue for me :p
 
Most TAP plastic stores will have scraps that they will sell to you for dirt cheap or if you bought something else like glue or something, they would simply give it to you for free.

+1 to 1/4 due to thinner would result in bowing.

I'm sure you've already thought this through but here are some of my thoughts in case you haven't.

Think about the height of water and what your skimmer likes or doesn't like when building.

Think(test) about power going off and how much water then gets drained down into your sub my the return lines. With your fuge, that limits the amount of "free" space that would take in the water from the tank.

Putting in valves to control the amount of overflow and return will help you dial in the amount of water going in and out.

Best of luck and be sure to have fun doing it!
 
If the return pump run dry for extended amount of time it might get burned out. I would wpend the time and effort in making sure the overflow doesn't get clogged up.

I see your point on the pump. My main thinking was that I'd rather have the pump wrecked than the floor. I




Ben - I run small return sections for this very reason. I look at it like this: small return section the pump will burn up sure but no flood, but with a large return section your tank will flood/overflow AND your pump will burn up once the water level drops. HHHMMMMMM I'll take the "Lesser of two evils" for $500 please. LOL. But seriously your pump will burn up in either scenario if you are not there.

You can prevent this by using a LOW LEVEL float switch to shut off your return pump if the return section gets to low.
 
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