Sump Design - Requesting Feedback

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Sculp1n

New member
Hey guys I'm looking for some feedback and to see if I've missed anything major on a sump design I'm working on. This is my first custom sump and it's a big one. The tank is a 235 and I have to build the sump in two pieces to get it to fit.

It's a very rudimentary drawing but give it a look see and tell me what you think.



Thanks in advance!
 
1. I would do away with the socks for the fuge. Not needed as you have them in the sump. Then you can make the fuge larger or smaller and make the sump one unit.

2. Tee off the return to feed the fuge and have the fuge baffles higher than the sump. That way you can control the flow through the fuge and the water from the fuge can gravity feed back to your return section.

3. You have the float for the ato in the last baffle. this last baffle is not really doing anything as your return pump is taking water from the bottom of the first baffle. I would remove it.

4. What drain system are you going to use? If using a bean or herbie only one baffle is really required (these drains produce no micro bubbles) and that is to set a constant water height for your skimmer.
 
you wont need filter socks, its paint to change them + you can use that space for something else or more reactors
 
Not if he has dual overflows. And not to begin a debate on filter socks, but almost all TOTM winners use them. Something to think about.

Can you post a pic of your stand? Most center uprights can be removed.
 
CuzzA said:
Not if he has dual overflows. And not to begin a debate on filter socks, but almost all TOTM winners use them. Something to think about.

Can you post a pic of your stand? Most center uprights can be removed.
Click to expand...

And the most stunning reefs I have seen, do not use socks, and some of the most mediocre tanks I have seen do use socks. There is more to this hobby than using methods that cause more work and potential problems, or not using them.
 
your last chamber (where the ATO float switch is located) is extremely small - it will cause the ATO to cycle more often and also give you very little time before the sump runs dry if the ATO runs out or malfunctions.
 
I've been considering ditching the set of filter socks on the refugium side. I kind of like the idea of raw mater being unabated for the fuge. I think I'll ditch it. One less thing to clean but the ones on the left sill stay.

As for the reservoir chamber where the return pump draws from, I think I will increase the size a bit. It has been a concern of mine as well and seems like it may be a problem.

Here is the updated design, please let me know what you think.



Thanks so far!
 
Last edited:
One thing I noticed is your ATO float needs to be in the chamber where your return pulls from as that will be the only chamber to fluctuate with evaporation.

Also, I don't think you want to pull from the fuge for the return at all; risk sucking up fuge goodies. The water that goes into your fuge will naturally flow to the left chambers through your connection pipe. You can probably eliminate the baffles all together in the fuge as well. I would have the connection tube between the tanks exit on the left side above the water line so you don't get back flow.

Your feed to the fuge, I would T-off and send it to both sides, so this way you can control the water flow to the fuge with a gate valve on the fuge side of the T without lowering the flow potential of the rift drain drain. I'm assuming your tank actually has two overflows?
 
I would think to move the CA reactors towards the front of the left chamber and push the skimmer back a bit. I don't use reactors just dosing pumps so I don't really know how set it and forget it they are. I know that once a skimmer is dialed in its removed for routine maintenance only so if you need to tinker with the CA reactors more often it might be a pain to work around the skimmer. Additionally, will there be a higher "wall" on the left intake on the side that has the probe holders? Just to make sure water is forced to flow into the filter socks and not spill over on that side.
 
I think every single sump I've seen lately has had socks for filtration. If you are recommending no socks- what do you do for mechanical filtration?
 
You can use a sponge, I suppose, or allow detritus to settle and siphon it out, but it would require much slower flow than you will likely have.

I tried without a sock and quickly added one again because detritus was easier to clean out this way for my setup. I change and clean them regularly.

It's up to your liking really. Pros and cons discussed for each option.
 
If you leave them for an extended period of time without cleaning, detritus will collect and they can become a source of high nitrates in the tank when the detritus breaks down. Same with settling chambers really, unless, I guess rhe settling detritus in a fuge where fuge goodies can work on breaking it down.

Not to mention, a sock could get to an overflow situation if you leave it long enough, so don't do that!
 
I personally feel keeping it clean is plenty adequate. People that do not run socks, I'm sure, have other opinions. Hopefully one can chime in and give you a good, broad understanding of both sides.

You could design the sock tray as removable so you can add/remove it down the road!
 
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