Sump Diagram, any Flaws?
- Thread starter SoulFish
- Start date
wonder if the refugium would be better in the section next to the skimmer and the return at the end, just another view from me, otherwise the only other thing is do you need both those baffles between all chambers, oh and if you did move the return to the end you wouldnt need the sponges.
Lemeshianos
New member
water in your refugium will not circulate as much as it should.
Also the sponge and coral rock will trap debrites and slowly turn into a nitrates factory. If you really want to go with extra filtration you should use the sponge and nitrates after the skimmer.
So they way I would have done it would be:
1st chamber skimmer
2nd sponge and live rock
3rd refugium
4th return pump
Also the sponge and coral rock will trap debrites and slowly turn into a nitrates factory. If you really want to go with extra filtration you should use the sponge and nitrates after the skimmer.
So they way I would have done it would be:
1st chamber skimmer
2nd sponge and live rock
3rd refugium
4th return pump
Those bubble traps will do more harm than good. You have both of the "under" sides facing the return pump. This will channel bubbles down low into the return chamber where they will readily get pulled into the pump.
I would scrap the coral rock area, move the skimmer to the left, make a bigger fuge in the middle, and put the return to the right.
I would scrap the coral rock area, move the skimmer to the left, make a bigger fuge in the middle, and put the return to the right.
Psychographic
New member
As already posted, your bubble traps are directing the flow which will carry the bubbles directly to your pump, you need to add another baffle to direct the flow toward the surface. You refugium will get absolutley no flow at all according to your layout. I would "T" one of the returns with a ball valve after the "T" and direct it to the fuge. This will give it flow and the valve will allow you to control how much it gets.
I would also swap the rock chamber with the skimmer chamber. If you have plenty of rock in the DT , you really dont need it in the sump as it can trap detritus. You could do away with that chamber and make your fuge larger.
I would also swap the rock chamber with the skimmer chamber. If you have plenty of rock in the DT , you really dont need it in the sump as it can trap detritus. You could do away with that chamber and make your fuge larger.
stingythingy45
New member
One of the overflow lines needs to feed the refugium directly.
Stingy I have been told that is not the best way to feed your fuge....What i have been told is to have the return feed the fuge so the skimmer can do its job with the nasty stuff in the water...allowing the cleanest water possible to run through the fuge and your fuge not turn into a final resting spot for poop and other fun stuff.
stingythingy45
New member
Trust me,your fug will not be filled with poopy.
I have a DSB in my fug and keep some nassarius snails in there.
It also has a nice big bunch of chaeto that doubles every 2-3 weeks.
I've run a fuge that was fed off the drain and it became a mess. It was more of a nutrient problem than a help. My current setup is fed from the return and works a lot better. I have very good growth. I pull out 2 stuffed gallon sized bags of chaeto every week, but dont have a pile of muck on the bottom.
shuguley
New member
Funny that this is being discussed, because I just got back from Lowes to buy supplies to re- plumb my setup.
My fuge is currently fed directly by an overflow, and it is a complete dump in there. I am replumbing my setup tonight so that my fuge is fed by my return line. I'll never have another fuge fed directly by an overflow again.
My fuge is currently fed directly by an overflow, and it is a complete dump in there. I am replumbing my setup tonight so that my fuge is fed by my return line. I'll never have another fuge fed directly by an overflow again.
Better, but I'd still scrap the coral rock section. It doesn't do anything useful. That space would be better for a larger fuge. Those skinny bubble traps wont do anything to eliminate bubbles since the flow through them will be too fast. They are just taking up space.
Getting there!
I still think the traps are a waste of space. If you just send the water over a single baffle, all the air bubbles are forced to the surface. Leave them there to dissipate instead of pulling them back down into the sump with a trap. Sending them through the macro in the fuge will do a lot to eliminate them. If you feel you must use one, spread it out more, like 2" minimum between baffles.
I think a 1200 GPH pump is kind of big. What size is the sump?
I still think the traps are a waste of space. If you just send the water over a single baffle, all the air bubbles are forced to the surface. Leave them there to dissipate instead of pulling them back down into the sump with a trap. Sending them through the macro in the fuge will do a lot to eliminate them. If you feel you must use one, spread it out more, like 2" minimum between baffles.
I think a 1200 GPH pump is kind of big. What size is the sump?
SoulFish
New member
The main tank is a 180 Gallon & the Sump is a Standard 55 Gallon (48" Long)
I was just very concerned about getting enough flow to the tank. I can adjust the rate down a bit with the ball valve on the return pipe if need be. This tank will not be a normal reef tank. I'm wanting mainly fish as the focus, with just some softies in the tank to look at. But the main focus is decent sized fish. That was also why I was concerned with enough mechanical filtration.
I was just very concerned about getting enough flow to the tank. I can adjust the rate down a bit with the ball valve on the return pipe if need be. This tank will not be a normal reef tank. I'm wanting mainly fish as the focus, with just some softies in the tank to look at. But the main focus is decent sized fish. That was also why I was concerned with enough mechanical filtration.
A 55G is only 12" wide which makes the bubble trap even more of an issue. The flow will be going so fast through the trap that bubbles will be carried right through. It will act as a bubble transport channel and actually make it worse.
The theory of a bubble trap is as the water is traveling downward, the bubbles rise up AGAINST that flow to the surface. Tiny micro bubbles in SW have very little buoyancy. For them to rise against a downward flow, that flow must be very slow. Much slower than whet it would be in a 12" wide sump with a 1200 GPH pump or smaller for that matter.
The idea is, dont send the bubbles down into the return chamber where the pump can pick them up and send them to the display. It is simple to do that. Keep the bubbles on the surface.
If you aren't too far along, I would also recommend using a 75G instead. The wider 18" sump is much nicer to work with not just for this, but also for fitting a larger skimmer.
If you feel you must use a trap, make it very wide on the left side since that is where the bubbles are originating from.
The theory of a bubble trap is as the water is traveling downward, the bubbles rise up AGAINST that flow to the surface. Tiny micro bubbles in SW have very little buoyancy. For them to rise against a downward flow, that flow must be very slow. Much slower than whet it would be in a 12" wide sump with a 1200 GPH pump or smaller for that matter.
The idea is, dont send the bubbles down into the return chamber where the pump can pick them up and send them to the display. It is simple to do that. Keep the bubbles on the surface.
If you aren't too far along, I would also recommend using a 75G instead. The wider 18" sump is much nicer to work with not just for this, but also for fitting a larger skimmer.
If you feel you must use a trap, make it very wide on the left side since that is where the bubbles are originating from.
Last edited:
