Sunlight and brown algae.

[sequential]

Before I ask my question, I should state that my happy anemone makes the hassle of dealing with brown algae trivial. With a high perch in my 38g tall, the anemone was healthy, but when the sun shines directly on the tank, the anemone is simply vibrant, reaching great distances directly into the sun. I adore my anemone, so it has been worth it to see him so apparently happy.

However, this has meant water changes on the order of once a week with the brighter than usual winter, sometimes as much as 25%, but usually between 5 - 10%. It also means I'm in the tank way more than I'm comfortable. The numbers on the tank are good. As soon as the numbers move in the slightest, I do a water change and remove as much algae as possible from the glass and substrate.

Out of concern, I beefed up my clean up crew, which has managed to prolong the water change schedule significantly, but I wanted to know if the brown algae was directly or indirectly causing my tank undue stress. If it helps to know, when left unchecked, the algae will form layers and eventually look like a layer of moss, especially on the LR.

Given the different response to the sunlight, it's clear to me that even with its close proximity to my All-Glass Twin-Tube fluorescent lights (50% 9325K, 50% Marine-Glo actinic), the anemone would like more light. The fact that the LR and the anemone are currently the main photosensitive tank inhabitants and my student budget have prevented me from investing in better lights. Are there other 24" bulbs that might produce a better spectrum or significantly higher power that you can recommend? Are there any modifcations without jumping to PC or MH that you might recommend?

The next project on my list is to increase the flow of water in the tank. Will this help? I'm almost embarrassed to admit that the only flow in my tank is caused by a TetraTec PF300. (Don't laugh or cringe, I'm poor enough that I can't afford to replace tank inhabitants too often, so I put the extra time and effort to make up for, the best I can, what I can't afford today.)

Thanks for your thoughts.

 

[Blown 346]

You can buy a 10,000 K flourescent bulb and a straight actinic bulb. I use to use the Sun Glow Or reef Glow bulbs. I cant remember the exact name.
Increasing the water flow in the tank will help with the anemone and some of the algae.
You are going to have to find out where the nutrients and extra organics are coming from to stop the algae.
What happens even if you test for it, the test might not find any of those traces since the algae is consuming it.
You have to look at what you feed, how often? If you are using RO water or tap?
Do you have crused coral? Is there any thing that could be accumulating detritus, uneaten food, waste? If so you have to dastically cut back and or clean filter pads regularily. Do you have Bio balls. Sunlight wont hurt the tank or cause algae to grow. It is built up organics that are algaes best friend.

 

[sequential]

Thanks again, Blown 346. I was under, perhaps the false impression, from both personal observation and the wise words of the employees at my LFS that sunlight was causing the brown algae. (There seems to be a relationship, but I've not done any scientific studies, just casual observations over the past couple years.)

The two primary places the algae grows quickly are on the glass and the substrate. The glass gets the fastest, thickest growth on the front and left sides, where the sunlight hits it directly from noon until sunset. The substrate is small rocks, not crushed coral, which replaced live sand that went horribly wrong due to improper care when I first got into the hobby. More specifically, I sucked out most of the sand in cleanings and could not figure out how to add more sand to replace it. So, I replaced it with the new substrate, which appears to trap a lot of detritus. This gets cleaned vigorously and regularly, but is slated to be replaced when I can afford enough live sand to cover 4 or more inches.

Combined with the lack of flow, and tap water, I think my priorities for my 20g wide and 38 tall are as follows. Feel free to make any suggestions about change of order or other things I can add to the list.

1) Powerheads in both tanks to increase flow
2) Remove the rocks, add lots of livesand to 38g
3) Figure out a long term, affordable RO solution
4) Connecting my two tanks together with a sump, skimmer and refugium. (I've gotten some excellent advice here about doing this, but it's probably the most expensive and involved project, and is probably best handled in conjunction with the move to my first house. Essentially, it's a complete redesign.)

In the mean time, is my normal routine of water changes, filter changes, and algae removing enough to get me by or am I kidding myself?

 

[Blown 346]

Your plan sounds good, and all of those points yu made will help rid the algae.
You dont have to add alot of LS, but you lwant 4 or more inches so that wil be fine.
RO/DI would be 90% of the algae solution here, and you can find them on Ebay for reasonable prices.
Yes by keeping your good husbandry and doing your routine cleaning methods willalso help keep the situation under control until you can get a RO/DI.

 

[sequential]

Once again, thanks, Blown 346. Can you, or anyone else, recommend a RO/DI solution or a reputable eBay seller to look for?

My biggest issue for an RO/DI solution is the lack of space to set one up. I don't think I have spare indoor plumbing in the same location I have free space for the equipment.

 

[Blown 346]

You dont have to "Hard plumb" the RO/DI unit to a direct water source. I didnt at first, I just used a adapter to hook and un hook it from my faucet when I needed it or didnt. Once I was done with it, I would put it away.

Here is a good guy to deal with.http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Reef-6st-10...437545876QQcategoryZ20684QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

[sequential]

Thanks for the quick and, as always, good reply, Blown 346. Is there a thread on RC or a page elsewhere that might instruct me on how to evaluate my options for an RO/DI system? In addition to the main unit, what other accessories would you recommend? I've seen various measuring devices and replacement parts that are included with some systems, but given my relative newness to the subject and general inexperience with the item in particular, I don't know what specifically to expect. Is the difference in temperature between my tank (78 degrees F) and my basement (ambient temp around 60 degrees F) significant enough, even with small water changes, to consider the use of a heater?

 

[Blown 346]

For accessories if you want to eventually have a place to store freshly made fresh water or saltwater you can either buy a garbage can or a actual water holding vat. I have a acrylic water vat. I like the vat's myself since they have a screw on top, are easy to see into with out a flashilight, as garbage cans are dark.
The hole is already pre drilled into the vat for the product water hook up.
The vat's cost more than a garbage can.
I have a heater in my vat with a 1100 GPH return pump to circulate the saltwater and heat it.
I would definitly use a heater to heat the newly made water, otherwise you can really shock your livestock.
As for other equipment for the RO/DI unit, once you want to hook it up to a main water line, I reccomend using a float and automatic shut off switch.
The float which goes into the water bin ( it connects to the product water line)will close once the water inside of it reaches the float. Which will stop water from overfilling the water bin.
That comes in a whole kit for about $45 depending on which brand you go with.
With that kit you will have to purchase a saddle valve seperatly at any hardware store, they go for about $2.
The saddle valve I reccomend is self tapping and should be used in the copper cold water pipe. The feed line of the RO unit will connect into the saddle valve. When you open the saddle vave that water will go into the feed line and into the RO unit, get filtered, the water that was filtered will go into the product line and into your bin. The water that has all the impurities in it after it was filtered will go down the drain.

 

[Blown 346]

Here are pics of my acrylic water vat...

Her is my saddle valve with the water intake tube that goes to the RO unit.

 

[DaveAngie79]

if you get one make sure to get the storage tank to its handy and time saving

 

[sequential]

Thanks, Blown 346 and DaveAngie79. I've decided that this is the next project I'm going to devote my savings to. I appreciate the advice and information.

 

[Phillycsi]

In addition, you can also hook up a UV sterilizer to help combat/control the algae in your tank.

Coralife makes a nice RO float switch that is cheap and easy to hook up to a water storage container. I use plastic drums to store RO water and the float switch makes life a lot easier

 

[Phillycsi]

here is the switch:

Coralife Float Switch

 

[sequential]

In addition, you can also hook up a UV sterilizer to help combat/control the algae in your tank.

In the display tank or RO/DI holding tank?