Super bummed found out I had aefw now tonight red bugs.need advice

[BrentH]

I found out a couple days ago I had aefw bad found them on a few colony's tonight I pulled a piece and saw rb hundreds of them on a little piece ... I've been trying to convince myself it's ok I can live with aefw but now the rb I don't think it would be ok to have both ... I tried to look for interceptor in the past and it's discontinued and I do have a 240 g up and running that I could move stuff over to but I know I would lose a lot of corals anyone know of what to use beside interceptor or has anyone lived with both rb and aefw? Here's my tank for u guys the tanks doing great except maybe for a few pieces otherwise couldn't be better?

 

[BrentH]

I seriously feel sick from this I know it's not the end of the world but I love my tank and put a lot of work and money into it ....

 

[BrentH]

One more pic sorry iPhone pics for now

 

[Jettareefer]

I had a horrible time with red bugs in my mature 75 gallon sps a few years back, interceptor was without a doubt the best thing to use considering removing things was not happening I had no losses. I just a 50% water change in addition to passive carbon. I know since is no longer available this info is far from valuable. I sympathize with you, your tank is a true beauty on large scale hopefully this is only small bump in road. Best of luck -Addison

 

[BrentH]

Thanks for the reply!! Is sentinel same as interceptor?

 

[BrentH]

We'll I read up on sentinel... And looks like it will work ... I've calmed down a little sorry about all the posts I was in panic mode a little ...I'll get the sentinel and live with aefw for now ....

 

[Jettareefer]

No problem I would be in panic mode too. I am curious about the selntinel treatment, how do you dose and what's the recommended after care? A lot of people manage to create a balance with Aefw's by basting/dipping in addition to wrasses.I have read a lot threads where people have had them for years while the tank continues to thrive. I just found monti eating nudi's in my nano, I am still undecided on my plan of action at this point. :/

 

[tannersmith2000]

Luckly for me, I have not had AEFW or RB invade my tank....yet. lol

However I have heard of people learning to live with these pests and keep their colonies healthy. Don't panic. Like Jetta said, some wrasses and a turkey baster filled with RO water can blow AEFW into the water column and wrasses will gobble them up. Melev has a nice write up on this.

 

[rovster]

Wow, gorgrous tank. I would be heartbroken as well. I wouldn't know where to start on a tank that large or stocked. Probably start with interceptor and as far as AEFW, try basting and wrasses. The red bugs are easy. If the basting gets old, I guess you could try a large qt using one of those huge feed tubs people use as ponds and go from there. Best of luck!

 

[trueblackpercula]

Sorry about the aefw and red bugs. It's still amazes me on how many people out of no where get them. It's like a plague that is out of control and what is even worse is there is no in tank treatment for the aefw. Redbugs is easy to kill by using interceptor if you can still find some or the new version. I am truly sorry about your tank and I hope you can figure out what to do without breaking down the tank. I did read somewhere on here that a few wrasses eat them or control them sorry not sure.
Good luck and some people just live with them

 

[ridetheducati]

Go with Spectrum instead of Sentinel. Both will work, but Sentinel has an extra ingredient that is not needed.

I feel for you. Red Bugs are easy to deal with, AEFW is a different story, it will put a hamper on coral propagation.

 

[BrentH]

They saying the dosage is exactly the same as interceptor one large pill 23mg per 400 gallons leave in. 12 hrs with carbon and skimmer off then so water change turn on carbon and skimmer your good and repeat2 more times a week apart each time

 

[Allmost]

sorry to hear ...

first thing I would do is increase the population of wrasses in your tank . I see a couple of yellow ones in the pics ... so not sure how many you have ... but they do help lower the damage at least while u deal with it.

 

[tdb320reef]

Beautiful tank...I have not had either with good dipping practices since I started the 320G. I have however had a crash that was causing all of my Acros to STN. What I did is take a back-up frag of everything and isolate to separate system while dealing with crash. Now that the crash is over I replanted the back-up frags and actually enjoying watching them grow out.

So my advice is to take back-up frags before you do any full tank treatments. Good Luck.

 

[Allmost]

Beautiful tank...I have not had either with good dipping practices since I started the 320G. I have however had a crash that was causing all of my Acros to STN. What I did is take a back-up frag of everything and isolate to separate system while dealing with crash. Now that the crash is over I replanted the back-up frags and actually enjoying watching them grow out.

So my advice is to take back-up frags before you do any full tank treatments. Good Luck.

good advice.

can you tell us more about your dipping practice ?

guessing inspection, dip in coralRX or the like, then glue the plug and the base ?

 

[ridetheducati]

good advice.

can you tell us more about your dipping practice ?

guessing inspection, dip in coralRX or the like, then glue the plug and the base ?

I know your comment was not directed at me, but below are my procedures.

Tools: (3) white or clear bowls, flash light, magnifying glass, timer, tweezers and turkey baster.

Formula: Bayer Advanced Complete Insect Killer Insecticide - dosage 10ml per 8 ounces of tank water. 10 - 12 minutes. Product can be purchased at Home Depot.

1. Prepare bowl #1 (Dipping solution at 10ml per 8 oz of tank water), bowl #2 (saltwater rinse), and bowl #3 (saltwater rinse).
2. Strongly recommend removing coral from frag plug as the plug may carry unwanted pests to include Aiptasia and bubble algae. Using magnifying glass, inspect coral for Acro Eating Flatworms (AEFW), AEFW eggs, and redbugs.
3. Place coral(s) in bowl #1 and start timer for 10 minutes, 12 minutes if you suspect corals are infected. DO NOT exceed 15 minutes. Sensitive smooth skin corals such as A. Enchinata DO NOT exceed 5 minutes.
4. Using turkey baster, agitate water in bowl #1, squirting water across the corals every couple minutes. Isopods, copepods, and other critters will begin to die and fall off the coral around 3 minutes. Use flashlight to view casualties on the bottom of the bowl. Use tweezers to move the coral if needed.
5. After 10 minutes, using tweezers remove corals and shake/rinse coral in bowl #2 and bowl #3. The purpose of bowls #2 and #3 are to remove residual Bayer dip from coral.
6. Coral is ready to be mounted and placed in the main display. When possible, I recommend quarantining corals for 21-30 days prior to moving to main display.
7. View the bowls to determine whether the corals were infected.
8. Discard contents of all three bowls. DO NOT pour into main display.
9. Take the responsibility of dipping all corals.
10. I added this line to complete the 10 step procedure. Enjoy.

 

[tdb320reef]

I know your comment was not directed at me, but below are my procedures.

Tools: (3) white or clear bowls, flash light, magnifying glass, timer, tweezers and turkey baster.

Formula: Bayer Advanced Complete Insect Killer Insecticide - dosage 10ml per 8 ounces of tank water. 10 - 12 minutes. Product can be purchased at Home Depot.

1. Prepare bowl #1 (Dipping solution at 10ml per 8 oz of tank water), bowl #2 (saltwater rinse), and bowl #3 (saltwater rinse).
2. Strongly recommend removing coral from frag plug as the plug may carry unwanted pests to include Aiptasia and bubble algae. Using magnifying glass, inspect coral for Acro Eating Flatworms (AEFW), AEFW eggs, and redbugs.
3. Place coral(s) in bowl #1 and start timer for 10 minutes, 12 minutes if you suspect corals are infected. DO NOT exceed 15 minutes. Sensitive smooth skin corals such as A. Enchinata DO NOT exceed 5 minutes.
4. Using turkey baster, agitate water in bowl #1, squirting water across the corals every couple minutes. Isopods, copepods, and other critters will begin to die and fall off the coral around 3 minutes. Use flashlight to view casualties on the bottom of the bowl. Use tweezers to move the coral if needed.
5. After 10 minutes, using tweezers remove corals and shake/rinse coral in bowl #2 and bowl #3. The purpose of bowls #2 and #3 are to remove residual Bayer dip from coral.
6. Coral is ready to be mounted and placed in the main display. When possible, I recommend quarantining corals for 21-30 days prior to moving to main display.
7. View the bowls to determine whether the corals were infected.
8. Discard contents of all three bowls. DO NOT pour into main display.
9. Take the responsibility of dipping all corals.
10. I added this line to complete the 10 step procedure. Enjoy.

Pretty much the same but the following:

1. Use 20ML or more per 8 oz.
2. Use a aquaclear powerhead instead of baster.
3. I always cut the plug or rock off. If I cant I dip it in pure peroxide for 5 minutes.
4. If it is a validia, or received by someone suspicious or see issues with the coral, Ill use revive as the rinse.
5. Put Coral in isolated frag system for a week or 2 and reinspect before going in display.
6. Inspect contents of dip under a microscope and document what I see and whom I received it from and handle business with that individual accordingly for future purchases.

 

[Nanook]

I know your comment was not directed at me, but below are my procedures.

Tools: (3) white or clear bowls, flash light, magnifying glass, timer, tweezers and turkey baster.

Formula: Bayer Advanced Complete Insect Killer Insecticide - dosage 10ml per 8 ounces of tank water. 10 - 12 minutes. Product can be purchased at Home Depot.

1. Prepare bowl #1 (Dipping solution at 10ml per 8 oz of tank water), bowl #2 (saltwater rinse), and bowl #3 (saltwater rinse).
2. Strongly recommend removing coral from frag plug as the plug may carry unwanted pests to include Aiptasia and bubble algae. Using magnifying glass, inspect coral for Acro Eating Flatworms (AEFW), AEFW eggs, and redbugs.
3. Place coral(s) in bowl #1 and start timer for 10 minutes, 12 minutes if you suspect corals are infected. DO NOT exceed 15 minutes. Sensitive smooth skin corals such as A. Enchinata DO NOT exceed 5 minutes.
4. Using turkey baster, agitate water in bowl #1, squirting water across the corals every couple minutes. Isopods, copepods, and other critters will begin to die and fall off the coral around 3 minutes. Use flashlight to view casualties on the bottom of the bowl. Use tweezers to move the coral if needed.
5. After 10 minutes, using tweezers remove corals and shake/rinse coral in bowl #2 and bowl #3. The purpose of bowls #2 and #3 are to remove residual Bayer dip from coral.
6. Coral is ready to be mounted and placed in the main display. When possible, I recommend quarantining corals for 21-30 days prior to moving to main display.
7. View the bowls to determine whether the corals were infected.
8. Discard contents of all three bowls. DO NOT pour into main display.
9. Take the responsibility of dipping all corals.
10. I added this line to complete the 10 step procedure. Enjoy.

Do you lose many corals with this method? Thanks again!

 

[Allmost]

thanks guys.

cant get bayer here, so I only use coral RX or revive ... how do they compare with bayers > ? which one is better in your opinion.

I THINK coralRX kills more stuff. but just think, not sure

 

[ridetheducati]

Do you lose many corals with this method? Thanks again!

Have not lost any frags (at least 100 dipped) using this method, including smooth skin.

I can not say the same with using CoralRx or Revive.