Supplements

kwalls

New member
This may be a dumb question but I'm new to the hobby and definately learning tons from the site. I currently have only mushrooms and a toadstool mushroom in my tank as far as corals go. The only thing I add to my tank at this time is calcium. What else should I be adding to ensure things are ok. So far everything is doing great I have had my tank up and running for a while. I do regular water changes and such. Just wanted to know if anyone had any suggestions. Thanks
 
There are differing opinions on adding supplements. I think most of them are harmless, some maybe beneficial, and some are outright snake oil.

My personal opinion is that everything you need is in the salt mix. My recommendation is that if you want to buy an $8 bottle of something to pour in your tank, figure out how much salt that $8 will buy and use that for a water change. I do run calcium reactors though.

I'm sure others will offer their opinions as well.
 
I totally agree with H@rry's opinion.

If you are keeping just softies, regular water changes should be able to replenish what they take out/need.

If you live in an airtight house, have a lot of pets and kids, and cook with gas (like I do), the CO2 level in your house may depress alk reading somewhat. If you happened to fall into this category, you might consider checking alkalinity of your tank water regularly.

Tomoko
 
it is generaly true about just doing water changes for softy tanks to keep the chemistry correct. however ,variables such as lighting, bioload, skimming, water used for evapoaration makeup and other factors can all drive alkalinity and calcium up and down. and all these effect each other. the reason i like to keep alk and calcium optimal in a softy tank is to keep coraline algae growing well,thus driving away nussiance algaes.
the easiest way ( in my opinion) is to use 2 part like b-ionic by esv. i sell it for like $22 for 2 16 oz bottles. and refill them for like $10. and they last quite a while for the average tank.

the reason i like 2 part is because it also has a ton of other stuff in there to replenish elements used up by organisms, even sofites.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14008086#post14008086 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Tomoko Schum
I totally agree with H@rry's opinion.

If you are keeping just softies, regular water changes should be able to replenish what they take out/need.

If you live in an airtight house, have a lot of pets and kids, and cook with gas (like I do), the CO2 level in your house may depress alk reading somewhat. If you happened to fall into this category, you might consider checking alkalinity of your tank water regularly.

Tomoko

Tomoko,
Sense you mentioned gas, I have a queston for you. I do not have a problem with any water parameter except PH. Could running gas heating (ie gas logs) cause low PH? And if anything elevate alk? I keep cal at ~450, Nitrites at 0, Salinity at 1.024, but my alk stays somewhere around 14 or so and I battle low PH everyday ~7.8 and has been as low at 7.6 when I ran out of PH+ for about a week. The problem has seemed to have gotten worse sence I started running my gas logs, could that be causing a problem? I use Reef Crystals and doing water changes doesn't seem to help. Like I said I have been battling this for a long time.
 
Are you using any buffer or something that can raise your alkalinity like lime water? dkH of 14 should cause your pH to be a lot higher unless you are adding borate based buffer to your tank to cause your alk to go up without increasing pH. If you have some acid going into your tank constantly, your pH can get low with a high alkalinity level. CO2 in the air is a constant source of acid but it's a weak one.

CO2 dissolves in water and depress your pH by producing carbonic acid (a weak acid). Your fish, corals and bacteria in your tank exhale CO2 at night when the light is out. Burning gas logs or cooking with gas stove a lot increases CO2 level in the air. If you suspect CO2 inside the house is the problem, I suggest that you take a cup of your tank water and aerate it outside of your house using an air pump. Measure the pH of your water before you take it outside and then after aerating the water vigorously for a few minutes. Aerating the water with outside air should dissipate excess CO2 out of the water. You will see the pH rise if CO2 in the house is the cause of your low pH.

Tomoko
 
Thank you, I will have to do that test to see if CO2 is the problem.

I just checked some water parameters and my alk is down to 12, Cal is at 400, and Mg is at 1230. My PH meter is still not working so i couldn't check it, but looking at my GSP its a bit low.

The only things I use in my tank are Reef Advantage Calcium, Reef Advantage Magnesium (almost never), Marine Buffer (more than never), and Microbe-Lift Special Blend. I actually use very little additives I prefer to do 10% water changes every other weekend. I have been using a bucket of Reef Crystals I got from CRA.
 
I second depending on the salt mix as much as possible. I try to do 15-20% WC each week, but my tank drinks alkalinity like no tomorrow. As long as I keep my alkalinity in the 9-10 range(I'm using Kent Superbuffer along with small amounts of kalkwasser until I build a reactor), my pH and calcium settle around 8.1 and 380. If I don't dose anything, 2-3 days post-water change my alk will drop to 4-6, cause pH and calcium problems.
Randy in the Chemistry forum is a big two-part and kalkwasser supporter.

Your alk is just fine. I wish I could get mine to stay that high... Seachem's Reef Calcium Advantage is, IMO, one of the best calcium supplements as it contains magnesium and strontium. Though they are small amounts, most tanks don't require much strontium at all, and magnesium consumption is usually less than calcium so the salt mix is enough.

From Randy Holmes-Farley:
FWIW, Seachem Reef Advantage Calcium does also contains a lot of magnesium, and coralline is known to deposit more magnesium than many corals and many of us believe that normal to high magnesium can help coralline growth. "Reef Advantage Calciumâ"žÂ¢ also includes magnesium and strontium in amounts proportionate to typical utilization ratios (100:5:0.1, Ca:Mg:Sr). " So maybe the effect you saw was the magnesium and not the strontium. I'm also rather surprised at the inaccuracy of their statement as the amount of strontium in coral skeletons is much higher than they are putting into their product. Very strange. I discuss that here: Strontium and the Reef Aquarium http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2003/chem.htm from it: "Many recent studies have shown the Ca:Sr ratio for many corals at typical tropical reef temperatures and at normal seawater strontium concentrations to be in the range of 100:1 to 120:1."
 
I try to keep my alk between 9 to 10 dkh if I am not using vodka or probiotics. 12 dkh seems to be a bit on a high side to me. I suppose that you would shoot for a bit higher dkh level to make sure your carbonate hardness is high enough if you are using a buffer system that contains a high amount of borate.

Tomoko
 
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