T5 questions
- Thread starter JimmyS
- Start date
VCoo71
Active member
the workhorse ballast will fire them but i would not reccomend using that ballast....T-5's need soft start protection and end of life protection... the workhorse ballast doenst have either so it is a lot harder on the bulbs....
im pretty sure 24" is the shortest you will find right now
charlie
im pretty sure 24" is the shortest you will find right now
charlie
Travis L. Stevens
New member
I've seen all an 18" and 8", but I wouldn't get them. They are new and seems to be highly under developed. I don't even know if I can find them again. I know that the little Marineland tanks use the 8" T5s and I think Premium Aquatics had the 18" ones in.
Russ Braaten
New member
I know Charlie likes the Ice Cap ballasts but the Fulham Workhorse 5 will work fine. I used them in my 29 for a year. If you go to Fulham.com you will find the wiring directions for different size tubes.
VCoo71
Active member
Russ
i really dont think they will work fine
the workhorse will fire the T-5 bulbs....but it is very hard on them.....and isint the best of choices....it will lessen the bulb life and wont run them at the kelvin there rated at ....you need to use a ballast that is designed for the T-5's .....icecap or triad .... and im sure theres more......the workhorse ballasts are designed to run them
i didnt a lotta reading when i thought about switching over but just couldnt justify the price
charlie
i really dont think they will work fine
the workhorse will fire the T-5 bulbs....but it is very hard on them.....and isint the best of choices....it will lessen the bulb life and wont run them at the kelvin there rated at ....you need to use a ballast that is designed for the T-5's .....icecap or triad .... and im sure theres more......the workhorse ballasts are designed to run them
i didnt a lotta reading when i thought about switching over but just couldnt justify the price
charlie
captbunzo
Premium Member
The workhorse debate here is NOT about whether they will work. Rather, it is about whether they will work as well.
1. I have been using workhorse ballasts on my five 54w T5s for a 9 months with no trouble whatsoever.
2. I DO believe Charlie that other ballasts will work better.
If Charlie could post a link to the Korean ballasts that he recommended before, similar in price to Workhorse but supposedly much better, then that would be a good alternative.
In short, though, on a budget you can use the workhorse ballasts perfectly well. And that advice is coming from folks (me and Russ) who have actually used them.
And boy, I really can't wait to buy myself a PAR meter so I can put some facts behind my feelings on this(and other similar) matters......
1. I have been using workhorse ballasts on my five 54w T5s for a 9 months with no trouble whatsoever.
2. I DO believe Charlie that other ballasts will work better.
If Charlie could post a link to the Korean ballasts that he recommended before, similar in price to Workhorse but supposedly much better, then that would be a good alternative.
In short, though, on a budget you can use the workhorse ballasts perfectly well. And that advice is coming from folks (me and Russ) who have actually used them.
And boy, I really can't wait to buy myself a PAR meter so I can put some facts behind my feelings on this(and other similar) matters......
captbunzo
Premium Member
And actually, on second thought at it all, a MUCH more important matter is to make sure you don't skip the reflectors. They are CRITICAL to the effectiveness (and amazingness) of T5s. And spend the extra $1 a piece for the icecap reflectors. They have been independently shown to be more effective then the Sunlight Supply (Tek) reflectors.
And another comment, if you are merely talking about this for ACTINIC SUPPLEMENTATION as you said above, then the whole workhorse / icecap argument is stupid. Just use the workhorses as your actinic lighting is more for color then anything......
And another comment, if you are merely talking about this for ACTINIC SUPPLEMENTATION as you said above, then the whole workhorse / icecap argument is stupid. Just use the workhorses as your actinic lighting is more for color then anything......
VCoo71
Active member
I got better than a year on my lamps overdriving them. I would not use a Workhorse ballast because they are not a T5 ballast. They will run them but there is no end of life protection circuit and they are a hard start ballast.
Check out www.ballastwise.com for T5 spec ballasts. Not sure if they have any for 80 watt lamps or not
the above is a quote from thegrimreefer
charlie
Check out www.ballastwise.com for T5 spec ballasts. Not sure if they have any for 80 watt lamps or not
the above is a quote from thegrimreefer
charlie
VCoo71
Active member
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=850212&highlight=T5
we have been here before
charlie
we have been here before
charlie
captbunzo
Premium Member
Yes, I have a 55g reef tank full of corals that are growing great. That's a whole lot of equipment.
All I am trying to say, Charlie, is that you have to have perspective. Many of us in this hobby are doing this on a budget and are more then happy to sacrifice a little PAR so that you can spend $40 on a ballast rather then $160 (or whatever the costs are).
Again, I say as I said earlier - you are undoubtedly correct that Icecap (etc) ballasts are better. However, if one has a Workhorse or wants to use one, they will work fine as well. MAYBE NOT AS GOOD. But fine.
Our goal here isn't infinite light or PAR or anything. It's simply keeping things healthy. And IMHO, you can reasonably do that with Workhorse ballasts. Now, granted, I don't keep a lot of high light Acros, etc, which I am fine with. In fact, for the most part, I really like my Montiporas better. And zoanthids and ricordea and Green BTA.
And also importantly, there are more important issues then OPTIMAL PERFECT lighting anyhow, such as appropriate (enough and diffuse) water flow. And such as developing a good strategy to process nutrients (skimmers, DSB, RDSB, Macroalgae, etc, etc, etc).
All I am trying to say, Charlie, is that you have to have perspective. Many of us in this hobby are doing this on a budget and are more then happy to sacrifice a little PAR so that you can spend $40 on a ballast rather then $160 (or whatever the costs are).
Again, I say as I said earlier - you are undoubtedly correct that Icecap (etc) ballasts are better. However, if one has a Workhorse or wants to use one, they will work fine as well. MAYBE NOT AS GOOD. But fine.
Our goal here isn't infinite light or PAR or anything. It's simply keeping things healthy. And IMHO, you can reasonably do that with Workhorse ballasts. Now, granted, I don't keep a lot of high light Acros, etc, which I am fine with. In fact, for the most part, I really like my Montiporas better. And zoanthids and ricordea and Green BTA.
And also importantly, there are more important issues then OPTIMAL PERFECT lighting anyhow, such as appropriate (enough and diffuse) water flow. And such as developing a good strategy to process nutrients (skimmers, DSB, RDSB, Macroalgae, etc, etc, etc).
VCoo71
Active member
what i am saying in order to properly use T-5's you need to run them on the correct ballast ....it doesnt have to be icecap ...this ballast which has the soft start and end of life protection (which is what the T-5 lamps need) will fire and correctly run 4 54 watt bulbs
http://www.ballastwise.com/item.asp?PID=24&FID=1&level=0
and it is only 40$ im not saying it is about "infinite light or PAR "
but that the lamps need certian protections that the workhorse doesnt have
charlie
http://www.ballastwise.com/item.asp?PID=24&FID=1&level=0
and it is only 40$ im not saying it is about "infinite light or PAR "
but that the lamps need certian protections that the workhorse doesnt have
charlie
JimmyS
New member
Thanks for the info guys. The reason I asked about the WH5 is I happen to have one laying around and all I want is some more blue for the color. I would like to see what it does the the coloration of my corals.
I just dont want to spend a lot of $$ for some blue. I can always put some PCs on, but from what I have read I dont think I will get the effect I am looking for.
I just dont want to spend a lot of $$ for some blue. I can always put some PCs on, but from what I have read I dont think I will get the effect I am looking for.
I've used the workhorse 7 ballasts on my 60", 80W T5s on my tank for almost 2 years without a problem. I do change my lights after 11-12 months of use. I do not overdrive my lamps like others do with their 54W bulbs. The lights are turned on then off, once per day. I've read Grim's information about T5s, and I yield to his superior knowledge on them. That said, I will look into other ballasts, when my current ballasts decide to retire. I do check my end caps, bulbs and associated devices for any signs of trouble about once per week (when I remove the salt spray from the lamps & reflector). Most people probably just run their equipment until failure, never checking anything until that time.
I agree with Paul T. & Charlie on their comments. :hmm2:
In my opinion, use it until you can aquire something that meets your criteria, do check equipment from time to time for the safety of your tank & your home!
The other side of the coin.....
The same argument (hard/soft start) can be made for almost all ac lamps & motors. Flipping on a light switch to your room light is hard on the filament & shortens the life of the bulb, same rule applies to an ac motor. The use of a variable frequency controller ($$$) on an ac motor will extend the life of the motor, & offers good protection as well (3 phase & single phase).
Go into the light, all are welcome, even T5s.....
Ray
I agree with Paul T. & Charlie on their comments. :hmm2:
In my opinion, use it until you can aquire something that meets your criteria, do check equipment from time to time for the safety of your tank & your home!
The other side of the coin.....
The same argument (hard/soft start) can be made for almost all ac lamps & motors. Flipping on a light switch to your room light is hard on the filament & shortens the life of the bulb, same rule applies to an ac motor. The use of a variable frequency controller ($$$) on an ac motor will extend the life of the motor, & offers good protection as well (3 phase & single phase).
Go into the light, all are welcome, even T5s.....
Ray
