T5 VS. Metal Halide

I forgot to mention our reef is a complete mixed reef. It has everything from Softies to LPS to SPS top to bottom. It doesn't matter one way or another where in the tank we place the corals they all seem to thrive, grow fast, and maintain (usually enhance) in color over 2-3 months time.
 
For those who are considering either setup checkout your local reef clubs and visit tanks that have these different types of lighting. Talk to those reefers and look at the color in their tanks.

From my experience (and I've seen a lot of tanks (WAMAS), and have been running T5 much longer than most... 2 years now) there is NOT A BETTER SOLUTION (T5 vs MH)... there are differences..

Here are some:

MH gives you a point source of light... is this better? Well depends on what you are growing... it will give you more shaded spots than a linear source of light... many people say (read threads) that mushrooms have trouble with T5 light... I know mine do, they are relegated to a corner as it's the only place they really expand and grow well.

T5 gives you a linear source of light so that if you are growing ALL high light demanding corals, maybe this is better... equal light across more of the tank than the point source of light.

MH gives you shimmer lines (if you like this, then end of discussion).

T5 bulbs hold their PAR value longer than MH (I know I've tested both with my quantum meter... my T5s are still within 10-15% of original PAR and are almost a year old now)... MH bulbs of club members I have tested have dropped anywhere from 20-50% over that same time period (many have already replaced bulbs)...that being said I will add this caveat... there may be frequency shifts in the bulbs over an extended period of time, but I have no way of measuring that.

Color don't let anyone tell you that one bulb system has better color than another (T5 vs MH)... beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and there are so many different bulb combinations out there that this argument is not worth a penny.

Also my last 2 cents statement: if you are getting actinic supplements get VHO rather than T5... a URI VHO actinic bulb will give you more of the POP than ANY T5 actinic bulb (and thats not just my opinion, but also the opinion of URI, and a couple of other vendors like IceCAP that I have talked to about this in Houston last year)...

Dave
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8818788#post8818788 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dragonforce
Metal halide is much better than t5's IMO. With that said, I think t5 actinic supplementing on a halide setup is a MUST! hope this helps

Once again, someone giving their opinion without even supporting it. :rolleyes:

I'll start by saying that I am running MH at the moment and I do not need a chiller, I am using a 6 inch fan to cool them down.

But your fan operating cost you even more money and it is causing more evaporation in the tank.

T5 give off more heat than you think. It is more noticible in a MH since all the heat is coming from a single point, but in a T5 the heat is spread over say 4 feet.



No one here is saying MH gives off a lot of heat and T5 only a little. Of course T5s are going to give off heat but MH gives off enough heat to cause the water temperature to rise thus needing a chiller. Not all MH units do that, but lots of them do and T5s generally do not need a chiller.

T5 give a unnatural effect in my opinion. MH do look much more realistic.
Actually, T5 is more natural. Yes the effect of MH (shimmering) is eye-catching but is not more natural. MH light comes from a point source while T5s spread their light out. In the ocean, the light is spread out evenly like T5 light is, not noticiby coming from one direct area like MH does.
 
Avatar71,
No it does not. Most people think that when the T5 "gurus" say that T5s use less power than Mhs they mean that 400w of MHs use more power than 400w of T5s, but this is not true. Watts IS power consumption, so 400w of light consumes 400w of power whether it be MH,T5 or an shop light in your garage. What we are really looking at is efficientcy, and fact is that T5s operate more efficiently than MH. when you plug in a 400w MH that 400w of power can be transfered into several different types of energy some of the more obvious being light, sound and heat energy, when the MH becomes excessiely hot that tells you that some of the energy is being transfered into heat energy instead of light, thus making the light less efficient. When you plug in a T5 the same thing happens but less of the energy is tranfered into heat thus meaning you get more light from 400w of T5 than from 400w of MH.

acroreef123
 
i have a 72 in. 125 that right now only has a 400w MH over the center and standard flourescents that came with it. I was thinking about getting rid of the regular flouresents and replacing them with t5's. what size and color would you guys recommend.
 
thanks acro. thats what I thought ... essentially... so you really cant compare the lights watt for watt then.

Appreciated!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8811783#post8811783 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 55semireef
Halides don't penetrate any deeper than any other light. The reason they typically provide more intensity at the sandbed is they start out much more intense. A 4x54 watt Ice Cap T5 setup will put more light to the sand than most 250 watt halides.

Thats interesting, seeing how a 175 Iwasaki is brighter than a 6 bulb tek....
 
He said than most, key word is most. But thats ok. The point being from what i have read is that both are amazing light fixtures and both work magic. But for my needs the T5's are a far better choice. There are more pro's to get the T5's than there are of the MH's. If you like the shimmer effect, high energy bills, having to buy a chiller in most cases, having to place the MH's in more than one spot over the tank, etc, then get the MH's, but if you dont want all of this get the T5's.
 
The only way I will consider halides in the future is in a MH+T5 setup, with the MH being 10,000K. A 10,000K is a much more efficient light source than most any T5. But very few consider this to be a pleasing color, so some sort of supplimentation is often used, or a bluer bulb. Bluer halides lose alot of their output with rare exception. In my own setups, the 6x39wattT5 (2xblue+, 2xaquablue, 2xactinic03... a near color match to the pheonix) kills the pheonix 14,000K 250... and that bulb competes with some 10,000Ks!!! So these 14,000Ks and 20,000Ks can get outdone by T5s easily. Otherwise, Halides and T5s used in combo are a very powerful duo. The blue+ T5 bulbs are perhaps the most efficient bulb for producing 450nm blue peaks... better than any blue halide, better than anything except for perhaps blue LED's.

Rich, I have not heard before that a Iwasaki can outdo a 6 bulb tek. I have a 6 bulb Tek that can outdo a 250wattDE pheonix on a HQI ballast... I dont think an Iwasaki can outdo that.

Also, I would like to point out that there are some huge differences in T5 products (much like with halides). An ATI powermodul that Grim tested had 2x the PAR at the sand as a Tek using the exact same bulbs... and I know my early impressions of T5 were based on a friends 75g with an 8 bulb Tek where half the bulbs were hydroponic bulbs, and the other half were the crappy CoralVue bulbs... so I remained a halide 'die-hard' for some time to come. But after owning T5s myself, my opinion has changed. Im sure that a few people's personal opinions may be subject to their past experiences with less than optimal setups.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8821589#post8821589 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RichConley
Thats interesting, seeing how a 175 Iwasaki is brighter than a 6 bulb tek....
Good Point!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8821589#post8821589 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RichConley
Thats interesting, seeing how a 175 Iwasaki is brighter than a 6 bulb tek....

Did you test the par? And what bulb combo were you using for the Tek T5s? If you don't have an answer than its interesting you made that comment in the first place. :lol:
 
Yeah, it would be suggesting that the PAR from that 175watt iwasaki would be greater than a 250watt pheonix... that would have to be one cooool running halide.
 
if you want the "shimmer" effect of MH try just adding in some 75watt halogen bulbs, produce a very similar shimmer effect but at alot less cost and heat.
 
And that Tek isnt the ideal for T5s either... at 6 months I bet there is about 10% loss from all of those aquablue bulbs, if not more. Im suspocious of them losing output rather fast.

none the less, that is a wicked output for the Iwasaki. I wonder if they will make a 250 of that bulb.
 
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