T5's: A cautionary note

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7187915#post7187915 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by horkn
davejnz, all I am proving is that the w ballasts are not bad at all to run on t5ho setups. 15+ months on the same bulbs driven by a w ballast with no dark bands show me this. I could care less about spectral analysis really. I have seen good coral growth from both t5ho lit tanks, and from Mh lit tanks.

that is why i am doing my new 90 with both mh and t5ho.


no reply on the GE engineering dept in hungary?
For someone who doesn't even own an IC660 or even a T5HO spec ballast like a Triad or Advance Centium,you shouldn't even be commenting on this thread IMO.
And for your post earlier about me having a bad pin connection,perhaps if you would of read my first post,you would of saw that i had a<5ohm connection when i ran a continuity test.
 
I'm finished with you 2 and this thread,the invite still stands for you guys to join me and Grim in an alternate forum where we can discuss this further.
 
Reefmonkey, captivereefing, or marine depot? Grim is at all three.

As for contradicting myself, where do you see that? The inverse square rule is for halides, and the intensity decrease for linear bulbs is linear, so the T5 would penetrate twice as far before loosing 50% of its output compared to the halide.
 
I am on the other forum with grim.

naw, i dont own an IC or spec t5 ballast, but others in my reef club do. I can speak about this as i please.

about the blackening, maybe you are just not lucky.


lets invite the hungarian engineers as well. sorry, but your bad experience doesnt make everyone else's bad as well.
 
This is all kind of ridiculous. Some here are making wild accusations without data to back it up. Others just spout the same crap they've seen elsewhere.

OK...so we can all agree that heat kills flourescent lamps. Big, hairy, freakin' deal! Throw some fans on them and use the IceCap, which in the long run is less expensive to own. It's also repairable, which means we don't have extra toxic crap going into the landfills when it dies (unlike the CHEAPER Workhorse ballast...remember, you get what you pay for!).

BTW, Grim Reefer said to tell all of you, "I have proven the WH is a poor choice. So far I know of one person who had an issue with the Ice Cap and that was likely because he wasn't running a fan."
 
dwdenny said "Hahn you are killing me here. doudle the pentration of halides!!!!! I dont think so. If it was then everyone would drop halides like a bad habit. You are pulling some **** out of your ***(PS I did the censorship here not RC). That is all I am going to say."

I countered with information about linear vs point source lighting, proving my point, and yes, many European reefers are dropping halides in favor of T5. My response was to dwdenny, but you seemed to want to jump in on that just to say that "hahnmeister is WRONG"...where is your proof of that?

Now, I am not saying that T5s are better or haldies are better...they both have their applications and using them together is perhaps the best solution for someone wanting high light SPS types at the top, and penetration to the lower parts of a tall tank.

Then you, davejnz, cut in with "BLah,Blah,Blah,Blah.Until you can answer my original question,I wont even comment on the MH-vs-T5 penetration topic which you are clearly WRONG about." & "Dwdenny,I'll help you take those feet out of your mouth and stick them up this guys ***"

What was I wrong about? Not only is this a violation of the RC user agreement, but you continue to say I am WRONG about something...but what? even dwdenny said "The Inverse Square Law explains why the halides can be beat by much less intense fluorescents" despite his claims that halides penetrate better...so he would in fact be contradicting himself here.

As for you,davejnz, the original dispute you and I had was about the starting mechanism affecting bulb life. I thought I summed it up pretty nicely. The starting mechanism means little to the longevity of the T5 bulb as far as reefers are concerned, since the day that the bulb quits firing all together is much longer than the period that we as reefers are concerned with.

As far as heat, you agree that the IC ballast heats up T5s more than a spec ballast. From that link I posted about ideal lighting temps for T5 bulbs, 95 degrees is optimal, and going beyond that spec diminishes bulb life and output.

Could you please tell me what I am so WRONG about? OR do you just like making that claim because it sounds good to you?
 
Reefmaniac1, thanks for the input.

I thought it was a given that heat kills flourescent lamps, and IC ballasts make more heat in the bulbs...as to if a fan is enough to keep that extra heat from building up inside the bulb...I doubt it. The straw that broke the camel's back was when I made the claim that T5s penetrate better than halides...so I proved it.

I still dont know what davejnz is arguing about. I think he just likes talking about limbs in orifaces because I still am not seeing where the argument is...
 
The heat is emitted from the lamp, just like light. It's when you don't remove the heat from the vicinity of the lamps that it causes problems. By using a fan to vent the heat (and prevent the build up of heat) this alleviates the problem of heat-associated damage to the lamp. The principle is the same regardless of whether it's NO, HO or VHO. If you want to extend the usable (to us) life of the lamp, you MUST vent the heat.

As to spectrum shift...I can't comment on that.
 
One small thing though that I question in that ventilation is how well the heat is really being removed from the bulbs. I made a comment a while back about how the ventilation deals with the heat once its outside the bulb, but since glass passes light much better than heat (its an insulator), all the ventilation in the world could mean very little if the internal temps of the bulb cant be kept down. Thecore temps are most likely higher than anything we could read at the surface of the bulb...
 
Do you really think that when T5HO bulb manufacturers put out a bulbs optimal temperature rating that they are going by the internal temp of the bulb?Do a google search on Phillips T5HO,you might just find the link as to where my data comes from.You need to quit mis-informing hobbyists and research this subject a bit more.Nevermind,I'll just give it to you so that others who read this thread can access it.Then,they will be more informed so someone else can pick this up where i'm leaving it at. http://www.brite-lite.com/pdf/t5_brochure.pdf
BTW,since you've already posted the sites,I'll be looking for you on one of them.I think we already got a 13page T5 thread going,I'll be looking forward to your participation/comments in it.
 
"Do you really think that when T5HO bulb manufacturers put out a bulbs optimal temperature rating that they are going by the internal temp of the bulb?" -davejnz

No, you are correct, but they also arent betting on people using Icecap 660 ballasts to drive the bulbs up to 50% over spec. This extra power increases the delta of temperature from normal, and since glass is an insulator...

Its logical to conclude that if the suggested temp of a bulb (at the surface) is 95 degrees, and then we add more power to the bulb to boost that bulb's surface up to say...110 degrees, we need to add more cooling. Now, adding fans and ventilation could bring that surface temp back down to 95degrees, but all we are doing in increasing the delta of temps between the core and the surface. Its logical to conclude that the core temp must be much higher than normal (whatever it may be) even if the surface temp is 95 still ...because the rate that we are removing heat is much higher. The higher temp of the core can hurt the bulb, since the phosphors are on the inside of the glass, not the outside.

The marketing data on that PDF sheet isnt taking this into account. FWIW, its a marketing sheet as well...so its scientific value is questionable.
 
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Well,where are the links(i want studies/tests not threads) to the tests/data to validate your information?Since Phillips is a well known,respectable manufacturer of flourescent lighting,I tend to side with there tests rather than your hearsay.
FACTS----
"The T5 family of low pressure mercury discharge lamps operate by the same principle as other flourescent lamps.The discharge tube has an electrode sealed into each end and is filled with an inert gas and a small amount of mercury(liquid and vapor forms).The inside of the tube is coated with a mixture of flourescent powders.These powders convert the UV radiation of the mercury discharge into visible light.The T5 family is designed to operate on electronic PROGRAMMED start ballasts for OPTIMAL performance and LIFE."
"The light output of a low pressure mercury discharge lamp is determined by the mercury vapor pressure which in turn is determined by the temperature of the COOLEST SPOT on the discharge tube.In the case of T5 and T5HO lamps,this spot is located on the etched end of the lamp,behind the elelctrode(cold chamber)"
"T5 linear lamps reach maximum light output at 95F"
"There is a 10% drop in luminous flux when temp is increased from 35C/95F to 48.5C/119.3F"
CONCLUSIONS-----T5's are not designed to operate on instant start ballasts such as WH/Fulham.The OPTIMAL performance and LIFE of an overdrived T5 can still be attained if the cold chamber can be kept at rated temperature(95F)
In a well designed fixture/canopy with T5's ran by an IC660,this temperature should not be hard to maintain.Even if the tubes were not being adequately vented and temps were at 119F,the 10% drop in luminous flux is still way more than what your normal output T5 ballast or a WH will do.
BTW,I noticed you deleted your previous response,you can find me at CR if you want to continue this.
 
the workhorse may not be as good as the t5 spec ballasts, but remember, the IC ballast isnt a spec t5 ballast either. its more like a workhorse in that it can run pretty much any fluorescent tube.

since the w ballast is so crappy, i will run it on the original bulbs that i bought 2 christmases ago until they burn out.

i still can melt green striped shrooms at will, even with my lower par workhorse ballast.

reread though my posts if anyone thinks i misinformed anyone of anything here.

reefmaniac, grim hasnt been on this site for a while now. There have been quite a few people that have had very short bulb life even while he was on the site. maybe he didnt remember them. hell, i dont even remember their names. One guy works at a public aquarium, and there are a few others i do not remember any specifics about, other than they noted short bulb life on t5ho. also, he is a big proponent of IC stuff. he got free samples of IC items, so he may have a biased oipinion of that product.

granted the IC makes more par, than a normally driven retro. if you need it, thats great, but i really dont see a need for it.
 
All things being equal good reflectors, bulbs, ec., etc. With the same distance from the water there in no way a T5HO can beat a MH in penetration(I dont think at least) We are comparing apples to oranges here now. T5ho max height from water 6" or less inches MH 6" or more most going at 12" it seems. So yes the T5HO in this instance would be better. However this is where we went array from the subject of T5 lamp life on IC ballast. Hahn and horkn give me names of those that had premature lamp failure running on IC. At least get them to post here what happened!!
 
i wish i could remember the names of them, but it sure struck me as odd that they have short bulb life when IC says they dont reduce the life of t5ho.

IIRC, one of these guys (very recently) was mentioned in this thread, or a thread about t5ho and bulb longevity. if the search button worked for non paying members, then i wouldnt have any issue finding it i bet. i would rather put my $$ into my reef club than having a way of backing up arguments by proving what i have seen does exist..

on the same token, all the people on RC that said that running a w ballast for t5ho would kill bulbs prematurely have been put to rest as well, besides one example above. who knows, maybe he had a bulb that wasnt up top PAR(pun intended).


I have never, and will never get into the debate that t5 are better / worse than MH as far as penetration. each has their own advantages and disadvantages.

which is why as i said before that i am going t5ho and mh on my new tank.
 
and dave,

"FACTS----
"The T5 family of low pressure mercury discharge lamps operate by the same principle as other flourescent lamps.The discharge tube has an electrode sealed into each end and is filled with an inert gas and a small amount of mercury(liquid and vapor forms).The inside of the tube is coated with a mixture of flourescent powders.These powders convert the UV radiation of the mercury discharge into visible light.The T5 family is designed to operate on electronic PROGRAMMED start ballasts for OPTIMAL performance and LIFE."
"The light output of a low pressure mercury discharge lamp is determined by the mercury vapor pressure which in turn is determined by the temperature of the COOLEST SPOT on the discharge tube.In the case of T5 and T5HO lamps,this spot is located on the etched end of the lamp,behind the elelctrode(cold chamber)"
"T5 linear lamps reach maximum light output at 95F"
"There is a 10% drop in luminous flux when temp is increased from 35C/95F to 48.5C/119.3F"
CONCLUSIONS-----T5's are not designed to operate on instant start ballasts such as WH/Fulham.The OPTIMAL performance and LIFE of an overdrived T5 can still be attained if the cold chamber can be kept at rated temperature(95F)"


these are the same things we have seen over and over and over and over, well at least the part from phillips. then i refer to the fact that in the aquarium hobby replace our bulbs way earlier than the industrial guys do. they basilcally only replace them when they burn out, whereas 1.5 years or 2 years is still a lot less than what the t5ho bulbs are rated for for lifespan. your conclusion would be correct if we simply waited until they burnt out to replace bulbs.

but we dont wait that long.
 
Um, davejnz...you just proved my point with that listing of FACTS. The first two facts are true of any linear phosphor bulb. The third is something I brought up as well...sure 95 degrees is the optimal temp, and anything above or below this can result in diminished output. Ok, no problem there.

Now the part of "There is a 10% drop in luminous flux when temp is increased from 35C/95F to 48.5C/119.3F". Sure, exactly why I am questioning the longevity of bulbs running on IC ballasts...they are known to run the bulbs hotter.

But where you lose me is on your conclusion part..."The OPTIMAL performance and LIFE of an overdrived T5 can still be attained if the cold chamber can be kept at rated temperature(95F)".

What does instant start or soft starting a bulb have to do with the running temp of the bulb? Once the bulb is started, all that means anything is the operating temp of the bulb...which has nothing to do with the starting mechanism of the ballast or the bulb.

And oops, yeah, I forgot to re-paste that part I deleted. Creative it is...

For now though, I will talk with dwdenny...and deal with one thing at a time...

Linear bulbs will beat point source ones in penetration. Did you catch what I said before? Yep. Im not pullin stuff out of my @$$. If you look in Sanjay's lighting update thread, I even asked him to confirm it while I was looking for the info elsewhere....

"If you have a point source of light, (a source is approximated by a point source if the distance of measurement is greater than 5 times the size of the source), then you can assume light follows the inverse square law.

According to the inverse square law, the intensity of a point source of light decreases inversely as the square of the distance from it. So if you were to double the distance the light intensity would drop to 1/4 of what it was.

A MH has the light source size of about 1.5-2", whereas a 4ft FL lamp has about 4ft of light source. So to really measure a 4ft FL as a point source you would have to be about 20ft from it.

Measuring FL lamps is kind of tricky at short distance.. since the light source is quite long. A FL would spread the light over a larger area. So if we assume we have a FL lamp and MH lamp generating the same number of photons/sec, they would be spread very differently, resulting in very different values of PPFD if single point reading was taken. I have not found an easy way to compare the FL with MH that I feel would be acceptable to the reefing community. Hence I have not ventured into testing FL lamps. The best caparison in my book would be to compare the output of FL lamp fixtures, in a manner similar to what I did with reflectors. Since what we really want is the spread distribution.

On a 4 ft fixtures, this woould mean collecting even more data points than what I did with the MH reflector using a 3ftX3ft grid, and several (6-8hrs) of just data collection if we go with larger grid. It would need a whole new setup and hell of lot more time than I am willing to put into it right now.

I did test some 2ft T-5 fixture from Sunlight supply..... to see that result come to WMC It will eventually get written up, but for now its only available in my talk."

-sanjay.

The bottom line is that halides diminish at an inverse square rate, and linear bulbs diminish in output at a linear rate. Think about it. As you move away from a point source, the photons that it emits spread out in a circle/cone/etc. As they spread, they diminish at a geometric rate. Now, for a linear bulb, the number of photons from any single point would diminish at the same rate, BUT, there is overlap. Imagine going towards the bulb, and you are at one end of that bulb....as you get closer to the bulb, less light from the other end of the bulb reaches you, right? So as you move farther from the bulb, you get more photons from other places on the bulb. So at some point, the percentage lost as you move away from a halide tank will be greater than with the T5.

Now, at that, I think you might be reading more into what I am saying that what I really said. Halides/point source bulbs do have an advantage in other areas. When I say that T5 penetrates better than halide, that also means that the closer you get to halide, that much more the light will get compared to T5. The closer you get to T5, this isnt the case. I can move some of my light loving SPS as close to a T5 as possible, but they just cant get enough light. Why? Well, the closer they get to the bulb, the less of the bulb's output they are being exposed to. Even adding more bulbs can only do so much, as the PAR per square inch of bulb doesnt really change no matter how many bulbs you add. But with halide, the PAR per square inch does increase as you get closer.

The height of the fixtures relative to each other means very little as you can see. Halides do have the advantage of peaking at a much higher level as you get closer to the bulb. This is key for many species of light loving SPS. Then again, the linear output sometimes counters this in that it can prevent shadows and get more light to the entire surface of the coral...but even so...there is only so much intensity that T5s can have as you get closer to the bulb.

But once and for all...yes, T5s penetrate better than halides almost any aquarium (unless you go over 48" or something...lol).
 
From IceCap:
A factoid from: http://aboutlightingcontrols.org/about.shtml

The source: The Lighting Controls Association (LCA), an adjunct of the National Electrical Manufacturers Association (NEMA), is the association dedicated to educating the professional building design, construction and management communities about the benefits and operation of automatic switching and dimming controls. The benefits include energy savings, flexibility and higher-quality building environments. ........

The fact: "Ambient temperature: Note that initial rated light output for T5 and T5HO lamps is based on peak output at an ambient temperature of 35 Ã"šÃ‚ºC (95 Ã"šÃ‚ºF), whereas T8, T12 and circular T5 lamps are based on 25 Ã"šÃ‚ºC (77 Ã"šÃ‚ºF). This characteristic of T5HO lamps may make them more suitable than T8 in some industrial applications in which ambient temperatures may be higher."

My conclusion: the canopy air in our hoods often exceeds 95Ã"šÃ‚ºF and always exceeds 77Ã"šÃ‚ºF. Nevertheless, with a fan removing lamp heat, which far exceeds either recommended temperature, the lamp itself can operate at optimum output. The 95Ã"šÃ‚ºF target only helps in setting a number in a static environment that anyone could reproduce and verify. Doing the same for a scenario involving heat extraction by use of fans makes it impossible to sum up with a single number. You'd have to account for fan placement, temperature of replacement air, speed of fan ( or with an IceCap variable speed fan - where was the probe set) proximity of lamps to each other, .... . Not an easy benchmark to create.

General observation: This thread is too much about rhetoric and too little about facts.

Andy
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7190214#post7190214 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by horkn
heres one. 50% less light in 6 months when ic overdriven.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=795494&perpage=25&pagenumber=1

He doesn't mention whether or not he's done a continuity test. If the continuity isn't right, you WILL get premature lamp failure. I'm not arguing with anyone over this, but to make his experiment valid, he'd need to make sure that the equipment was properly installed to begin with. Therefore, without the conclusive data of having a proper continuity test done, you can't take the data at face value.
 
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