The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
No, just 3. My system has 2 660 that each run 3 lamps which is the max with 80 watt lamps.
T5's: A cautionary note
- Thread starter gregt
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FastUno
New member
Only 3? I could have almost bet my money that your answers would have been a min of 4. Have we made further discoveries?
amheck, the Acquactinics lighting systems for a 4' run from under 700- to >1000, all depending on what you add on & upgrade. My second choice system would have been...
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc..._Code=ESU-53506&Category_Code=Coralife-halide
amheck, the Acquactinics lighting systems for a 4' run from under 700- to >1000, all depending on what you add on & upgrade. My second choice system would have been...
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc..._Code=ESU-53506&Category_Code=Coralife-halide
FastUno
New member
This is how blue the XM20K looks like. What you see is what you get with this shot!!!!!!
Mushrooms are happy
Blastos growing. Look to the upper/left of the blastos. The Clove Polyps have come back to life, after withering away under the T5's.
Better pic of the brain. Now that I have the T5's on with the MH, I think it has gotten slightly lighter? TBD
ratherbediving
New member
FastUno--
Great pics! Thanks for keeping us updated. I would confirm Grim's post though--- the rule from IceCap is 4 4' lamps or 3 5' lamps max per IC 660.
Has anyone confirmed how often the T5 lamps need to be replaced? I heard 18 mo to 24 months when I first got my setup, was wondering if that has changed yet...
Great pics! Thanks for keeping us updated. I would confirm Grim's post though--- the rule from IceCap is 4 4' lamps or 3 5' lamps max per IC 660.
Has anyone confirmed how often the T5 lamps need to be replaced? I heard 18 mo to 24 months when I first got my setup, was wondering if that has changed yet...
johns
Premium Member
My second choice system would have been...
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc..._Code=ESU-53506&Category_Code=Coralife-halide
Dont forget about the Maristar system from Sunlight Supply using HQI MH and T5 supplementation. Why these fixtures dont seem to be mentioned in this thread is beyond me. They are a bit more expensive than these other fixtures being discussed, but every person I have come across that has thad the opporunity to try out both systems has gone on and on about how much better they are. Especially in terms of the reflectors being utilized in the maristar - for HQI these refesctors can probably only be surpassed by Luminarcs.
These fixtures might be better suited to an SPS tank. By contrast, the Aquactinics fixture does not come as an HQI and has a more 'basic' style refector. However, they have some other strong points in that they are really being marketed as a fixture that 'runs cool', and for people that want to lay the fixture directly on top of the tank (I wouldn't try that with a Maristar!) So, in effect, you can get the light source closer to the water than with most other fixtures. How that compares to the higher output of HQI matched with the better reflectors, I dont know.
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc..._Code=ESU-53506&Category_Code=Coralife-halide
Dont forget about the Maristar system from Sunlight Supply using HQI MH and T5 supplementation. Why these fixtures dont seem to be mentioned in this thread is beyond me. They are a bit more expensive than these other fixtures being discussed, but every person I have come across that has thad the opporunity to try out both systems has gone on and on about how much better they are. Especially in terms of the reflectors being utilized in the maristar - for HQI these refesctors can probably only be surpassed by Luminarcs.
These fixtures might be better suited to an SPS tank. By contrast, the Aquactinics fixture does not come as an HQI and has a more 'basic' style refector. However, they have some other strong points in that they are really being marketed as a fixture that 'runs cool', and for people that want to lay the fixture directly on top of the tank (I wouldn't try that with a Maristar!) So, in effect, you can get the light source closer to the water than with most other fixtures. How that compares to the higher output of HQI matched with the better reflectors, I dont know.
FastUno
New member
Ballasts not being an issue, I would have thought that others would recommend at least 4 80W T5's (2 on each ballast). Along with the 2 160w vho's Actinics. I was just a little surprised by this. Is this a suggestion of ballast convenience or are we really suspecting that 4 T5's would be overkill on a mostly SPS tank?
The Acquactinics fixtures are unique, and, I believe, no other MH systems market themselves as being low heat transmission. The main factor in my purchase of a lighting system, besides functionality, is low energy consumption & low heat transfer. This was the driving force behind my T5 purchase & subsequent MH/T5 purchase. I was somewhat forced into the T5 arena due to my heat concerns, but now it seems that we have other options. The Coralife fixture also falls into this category as well. They allow us all the benefits of MH's, without the additional cost of a chiller.
I have seen many great fixtures, but most of which would have been impractical for my particular case.
The Acquactinics fixtures are unique, and, I believe, no other MH systems market themselves as being low heat transmission. The main factor in my purchase of a lighting system, besides functionality, is low energy consumption & low heat transfer. This was the driving force behind my T5 purchase & subsequent MH/T5 purchase. I was somewhat forced into the T5 arena due to my heat concerns, but now it seems that we have other options. The Coralife fixture also falls into this category as well. They allow us all the benefits of MH's, without the additional cost of a chiller.
I have seen many great fixtures, but most of which would have been impractical for my particular case.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
I think the 3 orverdriven 80 watt lamps will be enough. If we were talking SPS and clams it might be questionable but not for LPS>
FastUno
New member
Based upon the success of other systems, yes.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=596694&perpage=25&pagenumber=1
Also, low electrical consumption (no need for chiller in mind) & low heat.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=596694&perpage=25&pagenumber=1
Also, low electrical consumption (no need for chiller in mind) & low heat.
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jnb
Premium Member
fastuno
home stretch
earlier or other threads, people refer to t-5 actinics as worthless but they make number 1 below your favorite - they make the difference?
xm 20 k must be blue but you still maintain that t-5 aquablue (11,000 60 actinc 40 6500) is a good match? I probably like blue but reds and yellow, etc still pop out properly?
1-14K MH Hamilton bulbs with 2 T5 Actinics. I can't say enough about this combo. Truly impressive. On their own the MH bulbs have a great effect on coloration & when the actinics are on it gives it that extra pop. Hard to describe, but a must see.
2-XM 20K with AB & B+. At first I was worried the XM 20K's would look too blue or not provide enough light. After running them I no longer see this as an issue. On my next bulb purchase I would either go for #1 or remain with this #2 setup.
3-T5 bulb combos.
The T5's have their own ballast. I would upgrade the ballast if I knew a particular bulb that I was about to purchase gives off higher par with this new e-ballast. I am glad I went with the 250W bulbs vs the 175W, because this gives me greater flexibility. With Par output control & bulb choice. To go from 175W to 250W in this setup is not such a big deal, you use the same fixtures & you can trade in your ballast box/ballast. The moonlight LED's attach to the MH bulb socket & are AWESOME. I too had worries & questions, but all I can say is get them, because you will love them as I do.
The cover cleaning requires you to remove the fixture from tank. Unscrew 4 screws & slide the cover off. The cover is much smaller (narrower) than the 6 bulb T5 cover & can be cleaned quicker. One wet towel & another dry towel does the trick.
I have the black fixtures. I understand the questioning, because I had similar ones for other owners. A lighting purchase is not something you want to go through very often. I am beyond satisfied with my purchase, more so than what I had expected. No matter what size/type of tank I have I will always go with this setup. This might be of some consolation to you, so that you know I have not gotten caught up in the subjectivity of my own purchase. Of all the questions that I had for other users/owners, not one person had anything bad to say about their Aquactinics setup. [/B][/QUOTE]
home stretch
earlier or other threads, people refer to t-5 actinics as worthless but they make number 1 below your favorite - they make the difference?
xm 20 k must be blue but you still maintain that t-5 aquablue (11,000 60 actinc 40 6500) is a good match? I probably like blue but reds and yellow, etc still pop out properly?
1-14K MH Hamilton bulbs with 2 T5 Actinics. I can't say enough about this combo. Truly impressive. On their own the MH bulbs have a great effect on coloration & when the actinics are on it gives it that extra pop. Hard to describe, but a must see.
2-XM 20K with AB & B+. At first I was worried the XM 20K's would look too blue or not provide enough light. After running them I no longer see this as an issue. On my next bulb purchase I would either go for #1 or remain with this #2 setup.
3-T5 bulb combos.
The T5's have their own ballast. I would upgrade the ballast if I knew a particular bulb that I was about to purchase gives off higher par with this new e-ballast. I am glad I went with the 250W bulbs vs the 175W, because this gives me greater flexibility. With Par output control & bulb choice. To go from 175W to 250W in this setup is not such a big deal, you use the same fixtures & you can trade in your ballast box/ballast. The moonlight LED's attach to the MH bulb socket & are AWESOME. I too had worries & questions, but all I can say is get them, because you will love them as I do.
The cover cleaning requires you to remove the fixture from tank. Unscrew 4 screws & slide the cover off. The cover is much smaller (narrower) than the 6 bulb T5 cover & can be cleaned quicker. One wet towel & another dry towel does the trick.
I have the black fixtures. I understand the questioning, because I had similar ones for other owners. A lighting purchase is not something you want to go through very often. I am beyond satisfied with my purchase, more so than what I had expected. No matter what size/type of tank I have I will always go with this setup. This might be of some consolation to you, so that you know I have not gotten caught up in the subjectivity of my own purchase. Of all the questions that I had for other users/owners, not one person had anything bad to say about their Aquactinics setup. [/B][/QUOTE]
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
chrisc615 said:
Wouldn't be overkill but be careful where you place softies and shrooms. You might as well get 2 660 ballasts. It will cost a little more but you will have the option of adding a couple more T5's. Once you see the Helios Superblue lamps in person you may want to ditch the VHO actinics and run 6 T5's.
Codeman00
Premium Member
Grim/Uno/anyone...questions for you..
I recently switched from my T5/VHO setup to a 2x175W XM10K setup with 220W of VHO superactinic. I'm realizing now that i probably made a mistake by not going to 250W'ers and running 20K. I'm missing that blueness of the T5s..and I'm trying to figure out what I should do.
Right now, the tank has white light, but the rock work looks yellow where the flourescent green coralline was. Where I have purple coralline, it looks neat. I'm not getting enough blue at all and I would like to have a lot more flouresce. I have a ton of options:
1) Go to 2x250W setup and new bulbs, supplement with T5 or VHO (might be too much heat?)
2) Try a blueplus and a Super actinic with my current setup instead of 2 VHOs
3) Buy some Helios Super blues and try them with my 175s and maybe get blue and flouresce? Those Superblue pics look like what I need Grim...blue with a a lot of flouresce. 2-54W might cut that white /yellow from the XMs.
I (like everyone else) is looking for great growth, bright flouresce and somewhat of a blue tank.
Any suggestions?
Grim, was that one Superblue bulb over your tank? and do those bulbs give out any significant PAR at all?
I recently switched from my T5/VHO setup to a 2x175W XM10K setup with 220W of VHO superactinic. I'm realizing now that i probably made a mistake by not going to 250W'ers and running 20K. I'm missing that blueness of the T5s..and I'm trying to figure out what I should do.
Right now, the tank has white light, but the rock work looks yellow where the flourescent green coralline was. Where I have purple coralline, it looks neat. I'm not getting enough blue at all and I would like to have a lot more flouresce. I have a ton of options:
1) Go to 2x250W setup and new bulbs, supplement with T5 or VHO (might be too much heat?)
2) Try a blueplus and a Super actinic with my current setup instead of 2 VHOs
3) Buy some Helios Super blues and try them with my 175s and maybe get blue and flouresce? Those Superblue pics look like what I need Grim...blue with a a lot of flouresce. 2-54W might cut that white /yellow from the XMs.
I (like everyone else) is looking for great growth, bright flouresce and somewhat of a blue tank.
Any suggestions?
Grim, was that one Superblue bulb over your tank? and do those bulbs give out any significant PAR at all?
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