flemingljr
New member
Can someone tell me a good blade to use for a 10" table saw? I am cutting acrylic to make a custom sump. I've heard to use 80 tooth.
Table Saw Blade? Cutting Acrylic?
- Thread starter flemingljr
- Start date
mr pink floyd
New member
im not sure about 80 tooth, im no sure what i used, but it had alot of smaller teeth, and worked fine, next time im gonna use a dremel though
For a 10", try a triple chip grind 60 tooth carbide blade with a positive rake angle of 5-10%. Don't turn it around backwards. Expect to pay $50 or so for the blade, but it will really work well. 80 tooth is considered fine for really thin acrylic, but for something like 3/8" cast the 60 tooth will run cooler.
There are specialized acrylic cutting blades, but the ones I've seen are like $150 or more.
There are specialized acrylic cutting blades, but the ones I've seen are like $150 or more.
Johnsteph10
New member
Never turn the blade backwards for cutting!
flemingljr
New member
thanks for the replies, i forgot to say i'm cutting 1/4" acrylic, but might be going thicker for another project.
flemingljr
New member
just curious, what's "triple chip grind" mean? and why use the 5-10% rake angle?
I cut some 1/4" acryllic for a cookbook easel, and just used my regualr TS blade, set barely higher than the acryllic and went very slow, but I wasn't all that worried about precision since it was just a splash guard. For something as important as the corners of your sump - I'd pay extra to have them pre-cut.
If installing the blade backwards is a good idea, then I learned something new today that I don't think I'll ever try.
jp
If installing the blade backwards is a good idea, then I learned something new today that I don't think I'll ever try.
jp
Triple chip grind is a style of blade in which one tooth starts a cut, the next finishes it, then so forth on the other side, or something like that. I'm not sure of the actual geometry, but the idea with acrylic is to take fairly large chips in the cut, not ground up pieces of dust. This keeps the heat down, which is the primary challenge when cutting acrylic that will then be solvent welded. The 5-10% rake angle I believe helps in the clean expulsion of the chips, but I'm not sure of the geometry again. That's the blade we were taught to use in the MACO courses, and it works really well for 1/4" and 3/8" cast, which is what I cut. The problem with more teeth on the blade is that there's more "recutting" of the same spot, more heat generated, and more melting. Less than 60 teeth and you start getting into rougher cuts, though. Of course I imagine that the saw speed and the speed at which you feed the work through has a lot to do with it as well. Blades designed specifically for acrylic no doubt have a cut that is particularly effective at preventing heat build up, and so more teeth is not a problem, but again, those are really expensive.
I usually cut pieces to be solvent welded on the table saw just a hair oversize, then finish them with a little shave on the router; spiral cut bit. This leaves a really nice edge for solvent welds.
I usually cut pieces to be solvent welded on the table saw just a hair oversize, then finish them with a little shave on the router; spiral cut bit. This leaves a really nice edge for solvent welds.
mr pink floyd
New member
dont ru n blade backwards, if you put it the wrong way, the thinkg you try to cut will fly up and smack you i nthe face
DKreefkeepers
New member
I build custom sumps for a buisness of mine. I use a 10" Dewalt 80 tooth carbide tipped blade. I have cut tons of 1/4" acrylic and it has held up just fine. It has never chipped a single piece. The blade ran me $50.
Roland Jacques
Premium Member
you CAN put a blade in backwards and cut acrilyic it wont smack you. its an old trick worked good when you did not have a triple chip or a fine tooth blade.
triple chip is three defferent blade teeth and mattboy got the rest.
these guys who can biuld a sump with a circular saw and or a dremel tool are good. im a rockie and ill stick to the table saws.
triple chip is three defferent blade teeth and mattboy got the rest.
these guys who can biuld a sump with a circular saw and or a dremel tool are good. im a rockie and ill stick to the table saws.
ray22
New member
THANKS YOURFISHMAN ! turning the blade around works , and the blade only cost me 6.50 . ( alot cheaper than 50 bucks) and it worked great . dam all of you are so quick to bash , i guess we mock what we dont understand. i thought this site was to help each other out not put down .
ErikS
New member
Before you deride folks for "bashing" or "mocking" - those people are telling you the safe & correct way to get the job done.
They DO understand, they just don't choose to risk injury to save a couple bucks on a blade.
Before you just jump in try to remember, like most "Harry the Hazzard Homeowner" quite a fair number of the folks on here are just plain hazardous around tools - they either are now @ the Emergency Room, just have been to the ER, or will soon be making a trip to the ER.
They DO understand, they just don't choose to risk injury to save a couple bucks on a blade.
Before you just jump in try to remember, like most "Harry the Hazzard Homeowner" quite a fair number of the folks on here are just plain hazardous around tools - they either are now @ the Emergency Room, just have been to the ER, or will soon be making a trip to the ER.
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