I have a white cheek tang and it pops up with ich every now and then. I run a UV and it helps somewhat but what i found to help allot was adding garlic dosing to my tank. I have a 90g and i dose about every 3 days and it keeps it at bay. I tried No Ich and it didn't do nothing. I spent $60 bucks on it and my ich got worse. I dose garlic and it all went away. When my nitrates get high it usually comes back but i up the dosage of garlic and it helps and do a waterchange.
Tangs - always prone to Ich or can it be erradicated?
- Thread starter llebcire
- Start date
Here are some pics.
First pic shows that he actually looks healthy, little pale from a close flash:
Second is the best I can get of the bumps, after 71 shots. This is photoshopped and shows the bumps on the side of his body that I caught during a turn:
Looks like a light rash, but this comes and goes with the salt-like granules that I assume are ich. These bumps are what showed up in the last couple of days. He had these before, in the display, that turned into the grains on his body and more of a miniature cotton ball on his fins.
Thanks!
Eric
First pic shows that he actually looks healthy, little pale from a close flash:
Second is the best I can get of the bumps, after 71 shots. This is photoshopped and shows the bumps on the side of his body that I caught during a turn:
Looks like a light rash, but this comes and goes with the salt-like granules that I assume are ich. These bumps are what showed up in the last couple of days. He had these before, in the display, that turned into the grains on his body and more of a miniature cotton ball on his fins.
Thanks!
Eric
iamwrasseman
New member
will the ick live on the inverts while there are no pfish in the tank and the others are in QT ?
Chris27
New member
Nope, the parasite will only live on a fish host.
iamwrasseman
New member
okay because we are having this same discussion on another tread and the information is so tainted by opinions instead of facts so i had to just step back and listen because i'm not here to argue .
I would assume that the information provided by Steven Pro in Reefkeeping.com magazine (from here @ RC) would be considered factual:
"The lifecycle of the parasite is interesting and important to understand when evaluating a treatment. The stage where the parasite is attached to a fish is called a trophont. The trophont will spend three to seven days (depending on temperature) feeding on the fish. After that, the trophont leaves the fish and becomes what is called a protomont. This protomont travels to the substrate and begins to crawl around for usually two to eight hours, but it could go for as long as eighteen hours after it leaves it's fish host. Once the protomont attaches to a surface, it begins to encyst and is now called a tomont. Division inside the cyst into hundreds of daughter parasites, called tomites, begins shortly thereafter. This noninfectious stage can last anywhere from three to twenty-eight days. During this extended period, the parasite cyst is lying in wait for a host. After this period, the tomites hatch and begin swimming around, looking for a fish host. At this point, they are called theronts, and they must find a host within twenty-four hours or die. They prefer to seek out the skin and gill tissue, then transform into trophonts, and begin the process all over again (Colorni & Burgess, 1997)."
From Reef Keeping Magazine, part 1 of a 2 part series, August 2003
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-08/sp/index.php
-Eric
Eric, this is the best article I have found on this subject.
Hope it helps.
http://atj.net.au/marineaquaria/marineich.html
Hope it helps.
http://atj.net.au/marineaquaria/marineich.html
Chris27
New member
Remove ALL fish to a QT, and leave the DT fallow for 5-6 weeks - this will eradicate the parasite from the display. While the fish are in QT, address the parasite with either a copper or hyposalnity treatment. The only hard parts of the equation are getting the fish out of the display, and being patient enough to leave the fish in QT for 5-6 weeks.
Great reading! Thanks for the post!
Regarding my PBT, the pics I posted before with the bumps were Sunday, had the salt-like granules yesterday, and seems to be subsiding today.
Is this typical of the life stages of ich?
Could it be something else?
I am treating with copper - should I drop the salinity as well?
-Eric
wooden_reefer
New member
How so?
jimrawr
New member
I am having a similar problem. I have a Powder Blue Tang and a Hippo tang which have both come down with ich. The thing with this parasite is that its really a pain in the arse to keep OUT of your DT even after doing a QT tank and leaving DT fallow for 12 weeks. If I am correct, you need to QT everything that is incoming for a 8 week period, which includes any live rock, any coral etc. Even though ICH cant host on those things, it can still be present on it, so not QTing anything incoming could lead to a re infestation of your DT.
Is there any proven methods that work in the DT without having to QT all your fish? Hypo salinity in DT? How will that effect coral?
Someone correct me If I am wrong. The main thing for me is the extremely long time from purchasing something, QT'ing it, and then finally putting into the DT 8 weeks later. Or can you treat incoming coral/rock/fish in a QT for a much shorter period of time, and then 8 weeks is only for the DT to be fallow the first time to eradicate the ich?
Is there any proven methods that work in the DT without having to QT all your fish? Hypo salinity in DT? How will that effect coral?
Someone correct me If I am wrong. The main thing for me is the extremely long time from purchasing something, QT'ing it, and then finally putting into the DT 8 weeks later. Or can you treat incoming coral/rock/fish in a QT for a much shorter period of time, and then 8 weeks is only for the DT to be fallow the first time to eradicate the ich?
orientalexpress
New member
i have a hardtime of keeping fishes ich free until i talk to one of my friend,who does tank maintaining for living.he's toll me to dip all fishes in formalin 3 for 50 minutes with airstone and heater in a bucket before release into DT.so far all my fishes is healthy and ich free.
lapsan
lapsan
Psionicdragon
New member
LIES!
jkI think the only true treatment that really works is copper. I did hypo for 3 months before and well it didn't work even after following the strict guidelines.
Oh, bleach works btw
just not safe for your fishy and corals.Everything that I've read talks about the natural life-cycle of the parasite, but nothing seems to address how long it lives with treatment, i.e. copper.
I recently had a flare-up, which I would attribute to some of the parasite living through the first 2 weeks of treatment and being embedded in the flesh, but that flare-up disappeared the next day and the specimen (PBT) has looked perfect ever since.
Thoughts?
I thought I read somewhere that treatment is good after 14-21 days, but that the tank needs to fallow longer to allow the parasite to naturally die without a host.
-Eric
I recently had a flare-up, which I would attribute to some of the parasite living through the first 2 weeks of treatment and being embedded in the flesh, but that flare-up disappeared the next day and the specimen (PBT) has looked perfect ever since.
Thoughts?
I thought I read somewhere that treatment is good after 14-21 days, but that the tank needs to fallow longer to allow the parasite to naturally die without a host.
-Eric
wooden_reefer
New member
The trend for this concern is valid, as copper is more toxic when the ph drops.
However, I don't believe the extent is important.
NeverlosT
A bit fishy
Thanks for the input folks, I am starting the QT tank tomorrow, same deal, 20G long with HOB filter with just foam, water from tank, and some plastic obstacles to hide in. There will be 6 small fish in there, so lots of water changes are in my future, I will be using copper like llebcire. We shall see how it works... I wish I had a larger Qt, but thats that.
Ill probably change 1g per day, monitor ammonia, dose copper every other day just before nightfall (I hear the ich become mobile after dark, so dosing just before night is the best practice).
good luck to you (and to me!)
Ill probably change 1g per day, monitor ammonia, dose copper every other day just before nightfall (I hear the ich become mobile after dark, so dosing just before night is the best practice).
good luck to you (and to me!)
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