Tank Failure Sale

late2wake

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TruVu 90 gallon aquarium
- Left corner overflow
- Minor scratches that can be buffed out
- Epoxy residue near the overflow hole
All Glass Aquarium 48x19 stand
- 30� Tall
- black
- hole cut on the left side to accommodate PVC/bulk head
- Right door should be re-hinged
AGA 30 gallon long sump
- Oak trim
- Very poor divider job
Custom Canopy
- Approx. 18� tall
- Flat black in color
- Two doors on the front with huge openings
- Top is left open for better ventilation
- Square �chicken wire� to cover the top and coated with epoxy spray
- Can mount two 250watt halides
Price = $250

Aqualogic ¼ cyclone drop-in chiller ($550)
- Comes with controller
- Used for two years and works wonderfully

MAG 18 Pump ($60)
- Great condition

MAG 5 pump ($30)
- Great condition

Catalina Aquarium metal halide set up ($200)
- 2x250watt SE bulbs with ballast and spider reflectors
- mogule sockets

Miwaukee CO2 Regulator ($90)
- Brand new

IceCap ballast Model 430-008 ($150)
- 46.5� bulbs (atinic)
- retrofit.. water resistant end caps.
- Comes with heat sink, most hardware (missing one self taping wood screw) and wires which have been cut to a minimum. Most of the wiring is OEM length.

Iwaki Pump (MD-100RLT) ($200)
- Max flow 35.6 GPM
- Max head 14.1(ft)
- Flow Rate: 1986 GPH @ 6 feet of head
- Power Consumption: 385 Watts
- Size (L"xW"xH"): 12.75x 6.2x 6.9
- RLT= Pressure Applications
- Japanese Made Motor

Aragonite Reactor Media, ARM ($15)
- Brand new

Aqualine 150w 10000K DE Bul ($50)
- Brand new
 
I am looking for lighting. I am new to reef, but have done fish only salt for 7 years. I have a 55 gallon tank i just bought. Are you willing to part out just the lights?
 
I am selling that metal halide set up for $200. That includes ballast, 2 spider reflectors, 2 mogul sockets, and 2 old MH bulbs. Unless theres something I am missing, I dont think theres anything to part from that list.
 
Curious what happened, most of the failures are from the heat and you have a chiller?

Regardless, sorry for the loss
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7956010#post7956010 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by drinkhomebrew
Is that all I would need in the way of lighting? Sorry I am pretty new and am still learning quite a bit.

It's quite all right. I was just attempting to understand what you're looking for.

For the typical metal halide set up, you need the ballast, wires, something to screw the bulbs in, and the bulbs themselves.

The ballast is basically the powerhouse of the entire set up and is what fires up the filament inside the metal halide and keeps it fired. The ballast is often heavy and can get hot. So it's usually a good idea to keep it somewhere ventilated. The ballast that I have in possession is pretty good at dispersing heat.

The mogul sockets are no more than female threads that have wires pre-wired to the ballast. Just think of the desk lamp.

The reflectors allow you how much light are directed to the tank itself and to what degree. preferably you want all the light to go down. The spider reflectors are the way the reflectors are designed in order to be efficient.

The year old bulbs I have still fire and are pretty bright to the human eye. I would recommend replacing them for the sake of your corals. They might be good to use if you're transitioning from lower power lighting, but I would not use these bulbs for long-term use. PAR is the measurement of intensity of light. PAR will decrease as the bulbs age and it is recommended to replace them every 6-9 months depending on how long you leave them on per day.

In a nutshell, it's everything that will get you started on metal halides. Just makes sure you find a suitable place to mount them with the supplied hardware I have (they're only wood screws) and to place them at a reasonable distance away from the water (to avoid water splash and heating problems). Everything is wired and you shouldn't have a problem getting it started. Just remember that I do recommend getting new bulbs for more intense lighting. The two bulbs I have right now I think are Ushio 10000k, and Coralife 10000k. they're mismatched because my Ushio prematurely burned out.

If you have any other questions, the DIY section of the forums have more precise information regarding lighting, but dont let that stop you from feeling free to ask questions here.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7955915#post7955915 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sacramentodots
Curious what happened, most of the failures are from the heat and you have a chiller?

Regardless, sorry for the loss

Yeah, the power went out and my check valve failed. at least 20-30 gal of water was on the carpet and I decided the house and dry wall was worth more than the hassel to build it back up again. I'm also pending a move in another year so a large tank is out of the question.

I'll probably work on a 5.5 gal nano with internal overflow - I dont know yet. I'll be picking up a 33 gal oceanic cube for freshwater however. I miss my tetras =). It'll be a good tank for reefin' if I want to sneak back into it again.

Thank you for the kind words.
 
Any critters left? FWIW if you set up a tank in the future don't use check valves just set up the tank to where the sump can handle the drainage. I never use check valves. Sorry for your loss!!
 
Yeah, lesson learned...

I liked having the flow of the water coming from mulitple directions and from the lower levels of the tank to get the flow I desired. Next time, I dont think it'll be worth while. From up to down current would be the way to go for me next time.

I do not have any more critters left btw. I sold them/gave them away within two days to make sure they stay alive and go to good homes.
 
MH set up is still availabe however the mag 18 isn't. The only mag I have right now is Model 5. I'll PM you my number so we can arrange something. Thanks!
 
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