Tank Ordered. Free for all - Make your suggestion regarding equipment.

Allentown

New member
Hello All.

After getting a great suggestion from my tank poll...i have ordered.

I am now taking equipment advice in a free for all.


Lets start with what i have. Then i will post what i think i need. Then you all can suggest advice in two categories. 1) "What you need" (or your critique of what i think i need) 2)"what you might want as optional luxury items if money is no object"

Okay here we go:

What I have:

1) Deep See Aquatics Pro 225. 3 Overflows, 2 Returns (Should be here in a week or two)
2) Optional Glass top, matched stand, matched canopy.
3)Trigger Systems Emerald 39 Refugium Sump.
4) 1 Vortech MP 40 with back up battery (in my equipment list already but its unopened in a box)
5) Two Kessil A360W's and a Kessil Logic Controller (on current tank)
6) Two Kessil A150ws (40 Gallon QT Tank)
7) One non-functioning Apex controller (I think lightening hit it and i am not even sure i am going to bother getting it fixed...im gone all the time and it was way more complicated than my wife could handle even with me having remote access this set up did not work well as i cant be reached for periods of up to 12 hours)
8) Finnex Heater Controller x1 (bought after my apex fried)
9) Tunze 3155 ATO unit with back up pump.
10) Reef Octopus 150 ELite Prime with DC pump (vertex knock off - Rated for 100g heavy stocked, 200g light stocked, best skimmer i have ever owned and i really dont want to part with it).
11) 2 Jaebo WP-25s running off a dual controller (works suprisingly well in coordinating the two pumps)
12) Next Reef SMR-1 Media reactor (its a beast, its the one with the dark acrylic meant to retard algae growth, they sell it as a biopellet reactor but i use it for carbon and GFO on an alternating schedule). Best media reactor i have had to date.
13) Bulk Reef Supply 6 stage universal RO/DI 150gpd water saver unit. 70 Feet of 1/4 inch RO/DI tubing and RODI auto shut off float valve which will be inserted into my ATO container inside the cabinent (just ordered today)
14) RODI station is in garage with utility sink etc for waste water.
15) Will be plumbing a drainage line into the home plumbing with the connection coming in through the exterior wall just behind the tank.


What I plan:

1) I will be putting in an extra pump inside the sump and tying it into the external wall draion so i can drain the entire sump with the push of a button.
2) The RODI water will go to a shut off float valve directly in the ATO button but there is a seperate shut off valve already installed in the garage and this will ONLY be ran with supervision to prevent flooding in the event the float valve ever sticks.
3)Lighting will include the future purchase of a Kessil AP700 which will be mounted inside the canopy center of the tank with the two A360ws on either side of it ran via their controller.
4) One A150W will be used as a refugium light.
5) One A150W will be mounted as an inside the cabinent light.
6) Water changes will be via the 40Gallon QT tank which will eventually be retasked as a salt mixing station. I couldnt come up with a good plan here besides just sitting it adacent to the display tank and pump the new salt water directly into the tank with a pump at the time of water change. This is going to suck because getting the fresh ATO water into the mixing station is going to require me to throw a pump in the ATO resovoir under the cabiment and manually fill the mixing station as needed (unless i do a hell of a lot of pluming that frankly i just dont want to do....nor do i want to set up a second RODI system (at least not right now).
7) Plumbing from the 3 returns will be hard plumbed directly to the three return sections of the Trigger sump with shut off valves on each. Plumbing for the returns will be hard blumbed down to about 2 inches into the sump...where i will do the last bit of connection to the return pumps via rubber hoses.
8) Since i am currently anti-tank controller), Control will be via remote control outlet controls. With the main pumps and media reactors and ATO on one circuit, skimmer on its own circuit to easily facilitate feed cycles and maintanance. The heaters will be controlled via their own controllers, as will the lights, ATO, and Wave makers. The wave makers will be direct connected and not subject to ever being turned off. Emergency power outage will be via the Vortech WP-40s 36 hour back up supply and a pair of el cheapo drop in tank bubblers.


What i think i still need:

1) The AP700 (obviously). 2) A second WP 40. 3) A pair of el cheapo Jaebo MP 40s on a dual controller to supplement the two Vortechs. (I am too cheap to buy 3 more Vortechs right now but thats probably an upgrade later or maybe ill try a Gyre in a future upgrade). 4) A pair of 850gph return pumps (or is that two much)??? 5) Two larger heaters 6) An next reef MR-1 so that i can run Carbon and GFO together rather than rotating back and forth (havent really decided on that as rotating seems to work pretty well and its pretty simple just operating a single reactor (Carbon for 2 weeks, GFO for 3 weeks and repeat).

Wife already said no to the dedicated fish room...at least i have a 40g sump and a direct plumbed drain and ATO set up.

The only thing that gives me pause, is giving up the APEX programming where i can use leak detectors to shut down my media reactors and main pumps in the event water is detected inside the cabinent.......

I don't know what i will do with the old 90g. Probably give it to my son in law.

I will not be setting up dosing etc to start with (and maybe never) as i am probably only going do Zoas, Frongspawns, Hammers, Leathers, Palys, etc etc. I will just add a little kalk to the ATO and a little magnesium once in a while.


okay........go
 
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On what you have --
Optional glass top is a detriment to lighting.
Better off with a screened top.
Do not run your ATO directly from the ro unit, short run times are NG.
Run the ro water into a container & top off from there.
 
I would suggest getting the rw-15 instead of the wp-40 for the cheap pumps.

I second this, the new gen ones are a huge step up - I actually chose to get one to replace a Ecotech due to the savings. I wouldn't say they are equal to the ecotech's but they are so much less expensive.

On what you have --
Optional glass top is a detriment to lighting.
Better off with a screened top.
Do not run your ATO directly from the ro unit, short run times are NG.
Run the ro water into a container & top off from there.

Further on this, I am currently in a rebuild because my Osmolator failed and put at least 100 gallons, probably a lot more, of top up water into my tank, killed almost everything. I thought I was safe with all the failsafes built into that system. Lesson I have learned is never, no matter what the top up system, have enough capacity in the reserve container to seriously harm your system (ie, make sure the top up container does not automatically refill). I certainly won't make that mistake again... Vinny's point is another reason to not do this, I had worked around that with a bit of fancy plumbing, but he is right.

Also, Vinny is right about the glass - salt, dust, etc means you gotta keep cleaning it, plus the glass itself isn't 100% transmissive. But, it also kinda sucks to wake up in the morning and find your favourite goby gill-netted in the 1/4 " screen. I keep a lot of small fish, so I went back to glass after that and just deal with the cleaning, I'd say make the call based on your needs. If I didn't have the small fish, it'd be screen all the way for me.

Sweet tank, I'm sure you'll be thrilled with it. Keep an eye on that skimmer, I have the same one and I too love it. The temptation to put just that one more thing in a tank this big tho... I ended up trading up to another reef octopus, the new Regals, and I like that even more. This can certainly be done as need arises...

Those Kessils are nice lights, and the new AP700 looks amazing. Something I'm considering based on a lot of people's experience around here is supplementing with some T5s - notion is the only way to really get even lighting with LEDs is to use a lot of them and put them close together... T5s can help bridge the spaces a lot more economically, and many argue they get better PAR out of that as well. I have not made the jump to this yet, but with that long tank might be some food for thought as you plan. Sounds like you will have plenty of power with those stocking plans.
 
Keep the Apex. Once you understand how to fully program them they really enhance your reefing. The sky is the limit when it comes to the programming one can do. post in the Neptune section here or on their board for help....lots of truly helpful people out there. Skip the glass cover...that blocks too much light. I would skip the Kessil in the sump area and cabinet and get a simple light set up with a 6500k spiral/LED bulb. Buy the best equipment that your budget/wife will allow. I have been down the road of "this will get me by until I can". Sound like its going to be a nice build
 
Brian...

After some careful thought....I have reconsidered my anti tank controller stance.

I'll be getting it repaired or replace if FOR NO OTHER reason than for the leak detector to shut off the main pump and ATO (and any reactors that aren't INSIDE the sump) if it detects water.

I've got a canopy....the glass will only be used when the canopy is off for maintanance to keep firefish and wrasse in the tank...

The plan for the AP700 was nixed in favor of 3x Hydra 52s (on sale for $494)

So on the ATO...it's going to be plumbed directly to my resovoir but in addition to a float valve...the main shut off valve in the garage will be set to off by default and only turned on as needed to fill the resovoir.

Thoughts? ???


Eshaw...oh I can program one to do anything I want...the conditional language and syntax is easy.....my issue was the darn thing would never stay net connected...

Before it went out....I had given up and just started doing everything with the included controller (a pain in the rear but you can program it fully that way)

Update. I just ordered a next reef MR-1 (On sale with pump in a full kit for $75....almost bought 2) to compliment my SMR-1 so I'll have 2 reactors going.

I can't decide if it's going to be biopellets + GFO or Carbon +GFO

(My sump is here! I installed the new BRS 6 stage universal water saver RODI last night...floor is almost done....rock is laid out on table in back for aquascaping and tank arrives monday....build thread with pics in a week or two....)
 
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Brian...

After some careful thought....I have reconsidered my anti tank controller stance.

Yeah, me too. I could never justify the expense in my mind, but after this... I had a standalone leak sensor that also failed, no more....

Your ATO plan sounds like what I have in mind, I'll just have to remember to put it on my tank maintenance schedule. I'm a big fan of automating everything I can, but after this I'm going to be more cautious.

E_Shaw's comment has me thinking too. I got the Apex, I'm going to explore programming the top up reservoir to be refilled only every few days, with a max on time... Like you, default is off. I'm not set on this yet, there is still room for error, but I leave town a lot and have learned to leave as little to chance as possible with house sitters too...

Not to belabor this point, but watch for fish (wrasses...!) landing on top of your hot lights too. Fish will find a way, even in an enclosed canopy. Friend of mine once lost a Harlequin Tusk through the 1.5" hole he had for all of the cords - there was nowhere near enough room for it to just get through with all the cords in there, must have jumped, gotten jammed, than wiggled to do it. I had a wrasse get into a fan on top of an LED once... Lived, but good thing I was right there.:headwallblue:
 
The Apex does have the ability to program something like "If gate C closed then off"

^^^That's not the exact syntax (don't have it memorized but you get the point). Just enter that code on ATO outlet and it will kill the power to your ATO..should your ATO sensors fail and the apex leak dector sense water.

So....I'll be getting an apex and a couple more wave makers on black friday....guaranteed.



If you want to take it one step further you can get a break out box and set an independent float sensor in your sump and program it to shut power any time the float sensor engages....with that set up....it kills the power not just after an overfill...but if it even over fills an inch.

Another thing..someone mentioned. ...just don't over do it on how much is in the resovoir.

My sump is 15 inches deep but I'll be running it at 7 inches. That means I should have enough to accommodate about 5g or more over overfill....even if power fails or is cut to main pumps.

Now...I travel and my wife is...not great at handling this....I'll need 10g to 15g in the ATO to be gone a full week.

Verdict....if the ATO gets stuck on I'm looking at 10g on floor. If leak dector is in play I'm looking at probably 1/2g.

But....if she turns the valve on the RODI unit on and THAT float switch fails.....I'm looking at replacing $10,000 worth of hardwood floors.

Personally. ..I'd rather over fill the ATO resovoir and risk 10 or 15g than to EVER have anyone touch the RODI unit (other than me)...

Might even be tempted to disconnect the line from the filter when ever I leave town....
 
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