Tank Sailinity

molder

New member
I just started my tank. I have no livestock at the moment. I ordered 75 lbs of uncured live rock as the salty friend advised me that this would be best in the long run. When I got the rock I placed them in tubs with dechlorinated saltwater. Later that week I got some RO/DI water from a new salty friend. I mixed the salt in buckets and let it set for several days. After pouring the water in my tank I noticed that undissolved salt was in the bottom of the bucket, it is very cold here, high of 14F today. Is there a formula I can use to calculate the amount of salt to add to the tank? I just check my salinity using a coralife hydrometer. I know plastic is not the most desirable instrument for this job but I want to spread the cost of setup as thinly as posible

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Re: Tank Sailinity

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6778749#post6778749 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by molder
...but I want to spread the cost of setup as thinly as posible

Not to be a downer....But thinking this way will cost you a lot more in the long run. Saving money by getting base or uncured rock and starting slow is great. But saving money by buying cheap equipment will cost you more. You will never be certain of your parameters and will end up buying the right stuff later. Trust me...I did the same thing.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6778926#post6778926 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rpeeples
Mixing @ 75F + is best....rule of thumb 1.021 = 4oz/gallon
1.021 is not good for a reef tank though. 1.025 is a much better area to be it. I get it just about right on by adding ~ 1/2 cup per gallon
 
Hi again,

Here is some info on salinity and ich. If you ever, like me, get ich (courtesy of your LFS) on your fish. The best way to fight it, IMO, is to:

1)lower salinity to 1.010. The fish can survive in this; the parasites cannot.

2)increase temperature to 85 degrees.

I've heard the chemicals do more damage than they help.

Reef invertebrates cannot handle salinity of 1.010, however.
 
But thinking this way will cost you a lot more in the long run

I would have to definitely agree with this statement, its cool to start slow and save money, but don't cut back on the proper equipment you will need for this hobby.
 
yeah starting with used equipiment or cheaper stuff isnt always bad. But I was wondering. Is your skimmer sitting INSIDE your tank? If not lol it really looks that way.
 
There are usually directions on the salt container for how much to add, but I'd just use this as a general guide. With Instant Ocean (IO), I've found I have to add a little more than it says. I just mix it in a 5g bucket, throw in a powerhead and a heater (I had the same problem as you before I started using a heater), and check it after a few hours or so. If the salinity is too low, I slowly add more salt and check again after a few hours. After awhile, you get a good feel for it, and I always default to too little salt. On a side note, you'll want to let the new water aerate at least overnight to get oxygen back in the water and just to let everything stabilize.

As far as saving money on equipment goes, I agree for the most part with everyone else, but on the other hand, don't get suckered into buying more than what you really need. For instance, if you're just keeping fish, most of them are pretty tolerant to water parameters that aren't quite perfect, so I don't see why you'd need to spend big bucks on a really nice refractometer, $500 protein skimmer, UV thingamajigger, calcium reactor, etc. With that said, I think we've all come to realize there's no way you can make this hobby cheap.
 
yeah i agree that some things are needed. but such as skimmers, powerheads, pumps... All can be gottin so much cheaper used. if they work thats cool too lol. If not most only need impellers anyways. And above all dont blow money on lights. I bought mine used, replaced the bulbs aqnd still saved a few hundred bucks.
 
I think most refractometers should read 1.027 on full-strength saltwater when calibrated with RO-DI water, but it's worth making the calibration standards, IMO.
 
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