Tap water filter
- Thread starter amydale3
- Start date
jeff@zina.com
New member
Nope. The water filter is only a basic filter. No real reverse osmosis so most of the bad stuff still comes through and no DI so all the rest comes through. It's like a RO/DI unit with four of the five stages bypassed.
Jeff
IMM3DOORSDOWN
New member
whats the count up to??? never mind +1 on the ro/di unit
Barfly
Custom User Title
Nope. The water filter is only a basic filter. No real reverse osmosis so most of the bad stuff still comes through and no DI so all the rest comes through. It's like a RO/DI unit with four of the five stages bypassed.
Jeff
Actually, it IS a DI filter, but without any of the prefilters or RO membrane. Because of the lack of prefilters, the resin is exhausted quickly. As most have said, it would be very cost prohibitive because of the required filter replacement.
Much better to get a decent rodi.
lloydkeller
New member
go to ebay for ro/di filter great prices i purchased one 4 years ago for about 80 with meter never had a problem and filter replacements are cheap
I have been using one for the last couple of years and I'm content with it. It seems to last a pretty long time for me, but my area tap water starts off at 29 ppm. My TDS meter reads the filtered water at 0 ppm and i replace it when it's around 5 ppm. I thought it was perfect when I had a 29 gallon.
Now that I have a 65 gallon, it's still fine, but I'll probably get a ro/di filter in the future when I have more room. I am happy with the filter. It changes color when it's used up but it's a little difficult to see so the TDS meter is necessary.
Now that I have a 65 gallon, it's still fine, but I'll probably get a ro/di filter in the future when I have more room. I am happy with the filter. It changes color when it's used up but it's a little difficult to see so the TDS meter is necessary.
Agu
Premium Member
BINGO, there's the correct answer. It all depends on your source water. An API is just a DI filter. If your tap water has low TDS (Total dissolved solids) the API is a viable alternative. If you have high TDS it's a waste of money. Tried one in Minnesota where my TDS was over 500 ppm. It would have been cheaper to buy distilled water (and tip the carryout boy $10 ) at the rate of depletion of the DI media. With jpsnaps water quality an API can actually be cost effective. So the answer really depends on the quality of your source water.
That said, an RO/DI is the most cost effective long term solution.
gldnegle76
Member
My tap water is averaging 165 ppm TDS. I was getting about 30 gallons max out of one cartridge.
My ro/di unit is coming this week.:bounce3:
If your tap TDS is LOW, and tank not too big, it can serve a purpose, just not for me.
My ro/di unit is coming this week.:bounce3:
If your tap TDS is LOW, and tank not too big, it can serve a purpose, just not for me.
alanbates12
New member
How big is your tank
I'm just really starting to get into this hobby myself and I'm going to have to buck up and go with the RO/DI. I have been researching all kinds of things for the last week looking at heading off the dreaded brown diatom. I had it bad in my 55 FOWLR and always used tap water. Now that I have a beautiful 90 gal FOWLR, I don't want to mess it up with that brown junk. My water is off a communitty well and I beleive that the water is most of my problem.
I looked at that API unit and thought about it briefly, but it just makes more sense to go with the RO/DI unit if you're going to be doing this for awhile.
I looked at that API unit and thought about it briefly, but it just makes more sense to go with the RO/DI unit if you're going to be doing this for awhile.
alanbates12
New member
Make sure your cycling right and have a good clean up crew. Some of that is normal. Light cycle and type may also have something to do with it also. But a good RODI unit will help and save money.
