TDS lil high

Koddie Doo

Koddie Doo

Czar of All ThingsAwesome
Just doing a lil spring clean up and measured my TDS coming out of my RO unit.

I am at 70... ouch. (300 going in) I measured my NO3 and it was at 25. Do you think they are related? I tossed the sponge that came with my sump that "filtered" water before the return assuming that was holding a bunch. That may have something to do with it. I have about 12 gallons of RO water made up already, so I am going to use that for a WC. But will do another once I get my filters replaced.

Anyone have a preference on where to buy RO filters?
 
TDS lil high

Bob60070 said:
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...



Do you run just RO or do you run the full RODI? If not you should add the Deionizer too.
Bulk Reef Supply is probably the best place to get filters


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
+1 on brs. They have it all. Get the color changing resin and a refillable cartrage.it will save cash in the long run.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Koddie Doo said:
What was your fix? How long to recover?
Click to expand...

Dose bacteria, and a carbon source and skim wet. Haven't tested in a week.

I somehow got the wrong back flow thingy installed on my ro. Changed that and changed out my 3 Di's and I'm making perfect water before the di again.
 
70 from where? After the RO membrane, or after the DI? If it's from the RO, then your membrane is shot. Seems like even the poorest membranes have a rejection rate of at least 96%. So if 300 going in, then shouldn't be more than 12-15 coming out of the membrane. If you're getting 70 after the DI resin, then I guess(?) your resin is over capacity and releasing the TDS.
 
Never mind I see it. I have a sponge in my sump also. Last time tank was set up I didn't clean the sponge very often. My train of thought was that it would collect more being dirty. And I bought water at lfs last time so i didn't want to use it for the sponge only water changes. Anyway this time I have cleaned my sponge either everyday or every other day for sure in tank water and I enter when I do it in my notebook.
 
I agree with Tige21v. Measure the tds out of the RO before the DI canister. Run your system for at least 5 minutes before you measure as initial startup will have higher readings from TDS creep. Should not be higher than 20 or so depending on your RO membrane rejection rate. If it is this is what I would do. Replace only your sediment filter then retest your TDS out of your RO unit before the DI. If little to no change replace the carbon block next. Repeat the test. Again little to no change Replace the RO membrane and repeat. This will help you to understand the difference each filter makes and what to look at next time so that you don't just blow a bunch of money on filters. Once you do that reattach the system to the DI and recheck out of the DI. If the unit is not at 0 or is higher than what is coming out of the RO side then the DI is exhausted. I highly recommend the color changing DI from BRS. Just a no brainer to me. going through this process is not necessary but if done will help you understand your system that way when you see a change you have a better idea of what is going wrong.

Also a very important note. Saint Louis water uses Chloromine to sanitize the water supply not chlorine. This is important to know because chloromine is hard to remove. It will exhaust a normal carbon block in less than 200 gallons. Once it renders the carbon block useless the work of removing it falls directly on the RO membrane. This is extremely hard on a membrane and will quickly cause the membrane to fail. There are carbon blocks made for removing chloromine specifically with a much better life span. BRS sells them. This is a must have if your water supply has chloromine in it. BRS has an awesome video where they test carbon blocks on chloromine it is impressive how fast they become useless if they are not designed for chloromine. I personally run two chloromine carbon blocks before my RO unit for this reason. Carbon blocks are cheap compared to a new RO membrane.
 
mpgrant77 said:
I agree with Tige21v. Measure the tds out of the RO before the DI canister. Run your system for at least 5 minutes before you measure as initial startup will have higher readings from TDS creep. Should not be higher than 20 or so depending on your RO membrane rejection rate. If it is this is what I would do. Replace only your sediment filter then retest your TDS out of your RO unit before the DI. If little to no change replace the carbon block next. Repeat the test. Again little to no change Replace the RO membrane and repeat. This will help you to understand the difference each filter makes and what to look at next time so that you don't just blow a bunch of money on filters. Once you do that reattach the system to the DI and recheck out of the DI. If the unit is not at 0 or is higher than what is coming out of the RO side then the DI is exhausted. I highly recommend the color changing DI from BRS. Just a no brainer to me. going through this process is not necessary but if done will help you understand your system that way when you see a change you have a better idea of what is going wrong.

Also a very important note. Saint Louis water uses Chloromine to sanitize the water supply not chlorine. This is important to know because chloromine is hard to remove. It will exhaust a normal carbon block in less than 200 gallons. Once it renders the carbon block useless the work of removing it falls directly on the RO membrane. This is extremely hard on a membrane and will quickly cause the membrane to fail. There are carbon blocks made for removing chloromine specifically with a much better life span. BRS sells them. This is a must have if your water supply has chloromine in it. BRS has an awesome video where they test carbon blocks on chloromine it is impressive how fast they become useless if they are not designed for chloromine. I personally run two chloromine carbon blocks before my RO unit for this reason. Carbon blocks are cheap compared to a new RO membrane.
Click to expand...

I just ordered one of the carbon blocks. Good info
 
Great information, mpgrant!! SLASH is lucky we have so many knowledgeable reefers...I know all what you just said from many years doing it, but putting it in words like you're able is awesome.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

sickman
Can't get my RODI to go below 1.2 TDS in Palm Beach County (SE Florida)
Replies
5
Views
87
Twisk
Twisk
sickman
Filtering out Chloramines in South East Florida
Replies
11
Views
199
griss
griss
M
Well water TDS 10
Replies
4
Views
572
wvned
wvned
E
Setting up 10g quarantine tank
Replies
9
Views
388
Dr. Reef
Dr. Reef
sickman
Juwel Lido 200 - really reef tank ready all in one? Really Really?
2
Replies
39
Views
761
Reefing102
Reefing102
Back
Top