TDS Reading Of 2 Acceptable?

TDS reading out of an "RO" is darn excellent. All you need is to add a DI filter or get a single ro canister for DI stage. That will bring it down to zero. Personally, I has use rodi water @ tds reading 4-5 in the past 5 years with no issues. I replace membrance every 2-3 years, sedement replace when it turn brown, di replace when tds reading above 5.

He can't see the sedement filter. It's all in closed in white plastic. They don't come apart.
 
TDS reading out of an "RO" is darn excellent. All you need is to add a DI filter or get a single ro canister for DI stage. That will bring it down to zero. Personally, I has use rodi water @ tds reading 4-5 in the past 5 years with no issues. I replace membrance every 2-3 years, sedement replace when it turn brown, di replace when tds reading above 5.

He can't see the sedement filter. It's all in closed in white plastic. They don't come apart.

Ahh! forgot RO buddies use replace cartridges. I think those last about 400-500 gallons. Best to check with the manufacturer to see their recommendation. I noticed OP has a low ppm reading coming in as well, so that would definitely help lengthen the life of the filters. I am on well water and has whole house filters so my filters lasted quite a bit.
 
The TDS number that you find acceptable is what you are comfortable with. Personally I change the DI resin when it reaches 2 from the first cartridge. I run a 2 cartridge system so the second cartridge gets moved to the first slot and the cartridge that get the new resin will go on the second slot.

But yes, 2 is as high as I am personally willing to go.
 
Ahh! forgot RO buddies use replace cartridges. I think those last about 400-500 gallons. Best to check with the manufacturer to see their recommendation. I noticed OP has a low ppm reading coming in as well, so that would definitely help lengthen the life of the filters. I am on well water and has whole house filters so my filters lasted quite a bit.

Yeah these filters are cheap and not made to last long. They work but like I said I just can't justify the RO price in my mind. Now that I think about it I've never heard of tap water with that low of a TDS. Makes me wonder. I suppose it could be right. Mine is 270 something.
 
Yeah these filters are cheap and not made to last long. They work but like I said I just can't justify the RO price in my mind. Now that I think about it I've never heard of tap water with that low of a TDS. Makes me wonder. I suppose it could be right. Mine is 270 something.

My tap water (Vancouver) is only 17, I guess my cartridges will last a long time
 
Yeah these filters are cheap and not made to last long. They work but like I said I just can't justify the RO price in my mind. Now that I think about it I've never heard of tap water with that low of a TDS. Makes me wonder. I suppose it could be right. Mine is 270 something.

I'm in Ottawa. My LFS uses straight up city water, no RODI! I guess its decent then.
 
Got a DI add on unit coming in tomorrow. Bought an extra carbon and sediment filter for the RO buddy. Ya'll are right, seriously expensive compared to any other RODI replacement filters. May consider buying another unit eventually with flush and TDS meter built in. Don't want to spend the money now though.
 
I used to replace my DI resin very often, too often, but then I read on this forum from a very knowledgeable member (can't remember who now) that you should never have your ATO automatically refilling with a float valve because the stagnant water sits in the DI cartridge and prematurely shortens it's life. I stopped doing that, now I wait for the ATO to empty and then I open the valve. It made a big difference on the DI lifespan.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
 
I'm in Ottawa. My LFS uses straight up city water, no RODI! I guess its decent then.

To be honest I wouldn't trust a LFS. I would check the water. It could be really clean. I have heard of people using tap water but not a fan of that. Most tap water isn't that clean. At the very least you would have to get rid of the Cl in it. I have heard of people running RO filters with out the DI as well. If I wasn't going to use RO/DI I would want to know what is in the water and what effect it might have on the tank. This could include low levels of nitrates or phosphates, trace elements of copper, and trace elements of other types of dissolved solids, silicates, heavy metals and chorine ect. Is it really worth the risk?
 
Last edited:
I'm not implying that I would go without RODI. Just that my LFS does. I personally am concerned about silicates because I have had a ruthless diatom bloom going on for almost two months now. I believe the cause is the missing DI. Excited to see how things improve with WC and ATO reservoir filled with new water post DI.

Here in Canada, the RO Buddy replacement cartridges are $13, whereas the replacements for a standard RODI unit are in the $5-$7 range. This is what makes me lean towards getting a new unit eventually. The flush and TDS are bonuses when I can get one for under $300. Shouldn't have gone for the cheapest option to begin with...lesson learned.
 
I'm not implying that I would go without RODI. Just that my LFS does. I personally am concerned about silicates because I have had a ruthless diatom bloom going on for almost two months now. I believe the cause is the missing DI. Excited to see how things improve with WC and ATO reservoir filled with new water post DI.

Here in Canada, the RO Buddy replacement cartridges are $13, whereas the replacements for a standard RODI unit are in the $5-$7 range. This is what makes me lean towards getting a new unit eventually. The flush and TDS are bonuses when I can get one for under $300. Shouldn't have gone for the cheapest option to begin with...lesson learned.

It's not the case with the "standard" cartridges on the Buddie, but the DI cartridge does have a threaded cap. I haven't actually tried to undo it, but I imagine you can just twist it off and replace the DI inside.
 
Back
Top