PaulieWalnuts
New member
subscribed to this one...very nice...would also go for the bow coming out of the wall but its your tank and a very nice one at that!!
Tearing down a perfect wall......450 gallon Bowfront
- Thread starter Crazy One
- Start date
DamnPepShrimp
Moved On
30psi and no intercooler!!!!!??? Can you run a meth/alky injection? Your not kidding about being strict! That is ridiculous!
Back on topic, that tank is very nice! You never see large bowfront tanks, very unique.
Back on topic, that tank is very nice! You never see large bowfront tanks, very unique.
Thanks Paulie for the comments, I would have loved the tank to come out further past the wall, but there is a main beam in the attic above the ceiling that I couldn't move or modify in any way.
I'm lucky enough to have enough room to install the light rack just 6-8" from the farthest point of the bow.
Also since this tank has two openings on top I'm going to have to use two or three lumenarcs III's pendants with some 400 watter ballasts to get the light to penetrate the depth and distribute the light pattern effectively.
thanks also Pep for the tank comments I was lucky enough to find this tank , At first I didn't know that it needed alot of TLC to get it back into a nice condition.
I just keep thinking about a comment that an old boss of mine from a chassis shop once told me about doing "tin work" that round corners give alot more style to something than sharp edges or sharp corners do.
I'd like to offer a suggestion to clean up the area where the drywall corner meets the curved edge of the tank. Try opening up the corners a bit. Something as simple as putting a 45 degree angle starting from the far side of the tank or a trickier idea would be to mimic the curve of the glass (think mirror) would really add a custom look to a great set up.
I did a similar thing to a window in my house. Please ignore the drunk friend.
I did a similar thing to a window in my house. Please ignore the drunk friend.
Well I haven't had a chance to let everyone know what my progress has been. It's been slow to be honest. The other night I did get a few early x-mas gifts from the wife, she couldn't resist hinting to me that day that I was going to be happy when I got home. It turns out I was kind of wondering why she was asking a few weeks ago she was asking me to show her some ideas of the lighting I wanted to go with above the tank. Turns out I got the exact same equipment we were talking about. Whooo HOOO!
I was very happy to see a couple lumenbright pendants, reflux 12k bulbs and a couple Icecap 400 watt electroic ballasts.
It was funny cause as I was opening the box, she was explaining to me that the salesman was telling her that I was lucky to have such a nice wife , I said yes dear. But I won't lie I was also thinking about that skimmer we talked about too. But no dice..yet hahaha
I can't get everything at once she said, she knows if I don't get each stage of each project done, I usually wont complete it, so she tells me get all the plumbing done, get the light fixture built, and figure out which skimmer we need to get.
I narrowed it down to (2) Reeflo Orca 250, or a Large ATB, I'm thinking more towards the ATB because I really don't want to worry about wate ron the floor in case electric goes out and were not home.
Well heres a picture of the tank lit up , no water or live rock yet, but it will in the next couple days.
Tomorrw I'll finish up the plumbing to the pumps and router out the dividers in the sumps, and make my own type of wet drys.
I didn't take pics of the lighting equip. I figure everyone knows what they are. But I will when the reack is complete and installed. It will have a linear actuator on a timer to control the distance from the top of tank.
Theres a few white streaks on the back that need to get wiped off again, might be the polishing compound, so nothing to serious.
I might change the returns from dumping into the top and install some bulkheads on the sides.
I was very happy to see a couple lumenbright pendants, reflux 12k bulbs and a couple Icecap 400 watt electroic ballasts.
It was funny cause as I was opening the box, she was explaining to me that the salesman was telling her that I was lucky to have such a nice wife , I said yes dear. But I won't lie I was also thinking about that skimmer we talked about too. But no dice..yet hahaha
I can't get everything at once she said, she knows if I don't get each stage of each project done, I usually wont complete it, so she tells me get all the plumbing done, get the light fixture built, and figure out which skimmer we need to get. I narrowed it down to (2) Reeflo Orca 250, or a Large ATB, I'm thinking more towards the ATB because I really don't want to worry about wate ron the floor in case electric goes out and were not home.
Well heres a picture of the tank lit up , no water or live rock yet, but it will in the next couple days.
Tomorrw I'll finish up the plumbing to the pumps and router out the dividers in the sumps, and make my own type of wet drys.
I didn't take pics of the lighting equip. I figure everyone knows what they are. But I will when the reack is complete and installed. It will have a linear actuator on a timer to control the distance from the top of tank.
Theres a few white streaks on the back that need to get wiped off again, might be the polishing compound, so nothing to serious.
I might change the returns from dumping into the top and install some bulkheads on the sides.
I'm curious as to what you used to refinish the acrylic. I'm not sure if I missed it or not, but did you use any sandpaper or a specific buffing comound? I am working on a project similar to this in the fact mine is a used acrylic tank with a need for some TLC. Any help would be great, and I really like that coupe of yours as well. I had to put my GT on hold for now until I get some more funds saved back up. I am planning on running in the true 10.5 class or possibly an outlaw class. Thanks again.
Sure no problem, the acrylic polish I used was Novus #3 heavy scratch remover followed by #2 fine scratch remover, they are both in 8 oz bottles. Kinda expensive $16.00 each. Actually here is a phone # right off the bottle so you can find a local distributor in your area......1-800-548-6872 , or here's their website....http://novuspolish.com/
In case you were wondering about the sandind part, I sanded the back and inside walls from 500 grit all the way up to 3000 grit paper then wiped it all down with just a wet towel.
I would try a local paint supplier in your area for the fine sandpaper.
BTW I never touched the front bow, inside or outside with sandpaper, I just buffed that out.
I couldn't find an attachment for my dewalt 5" orbital sander, but I did find a 5" orbital buffer at menards in the car section and bought a few assortment of extra pads, and that seemed to be alot better than trying to use my car buffer.
I hope that helps you out. Good luck on getting the mustang ready for some 1320 passes. If I make some of the Nmra events next year, your more than welcome to stop by for some free food and drinks.
In case you were wondering about the sandind part, I sanded the back and inside walls from 500 grit all the way up to 3000 grit paper then wiped it all down with just a wet towel.
I would try a local paint supplier in your area for the fine sandpaper.
BTW I never touched the front bow, inside or outside with sandpaper, I just buffed that out.
I couldn't find an attachment for my dewalt 5" orbital sander, but I did find a 5" orbital buffer at menards in the car section and bought a few assortment of extra pads, and that seemed to be alot better than trying to use my car buffer.
I hope that helps you out. Good luck on getting the mustang ready for some 1320 passes. If I make some of the Nmra events next year, your more than welcome to stop by for some free food and drinks.
And here is a cool site for the people that need to repair glass tanks....http://www.srpglassrestoration.com
Thanks. I recently ordered that kit but I think I paid 16 for the whole kit. I am guessing from the pics with a little time that stuff works pretty good. This is where I ordered mine from: http://freckleface.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/plasticpolish.html#643 I also bought the 8oz. kit as well but I only paid 34 dollars for two kits. The tank I have was really scratched inside and out.
I know it's been a few weeks but heres a couple pics of my sumps. If you can bare with me I will try and explain my idea of my plumbing and returns the best I can.
Water travels down from each external overflow of the display tank and drains into each one of the overflows that are built into the sumps below. (Those are 1 1/2" pvc).
From there I drilled both sides of the overflows in the sumps and glued 1 1/2" slotted pvc into them horizontally.
I'm thinking I can install something familiar to a type of wet/ dry setup beneath them which can hold bio balls or cubes.
I'm also thinking to make some trays for the poly pads to sit into also. I want them to be easily accessible so I can change them out when necessary, then I wanted to install a few baffles going towards the center (kinda like a fuge setup) of the sumps going towards the area of the return pumps are. Hopefully with this design it will cut down on any microbubbles.
Let me know if I should or shouldn't do something now so I'm not tearing it apart to make it better down the road.
Water travels down from each external overflow of the display tank and drains into each one of the overflows that are built into the sumps below. (Those are 1 1/2" pvc).
From there I drilled both sides of the overflows in the sumps and glued 1 1/2" slotted pvc into them horizontally.
I'm thinking I can install something familiar to a type of wet/ dry setup beneath them which can hold bio balls or cubes.
I'm also thinking to make some trays for the poly pads to sit into also. I want them to be easily accessible so I can change them out when necessary, then I wanted to install a few baffles going towards the center (kinda like a fuge setup) of the sumps going towards the area of the return pumps are. Hopefully with this design it will cut down on any microbubbles.
Let me know if I should or shouldn't do something now so I'm not tearing it apart to make it better down the road.
I'm having some real issues.
If someone can help me out I would really appreciate it.
Heres whats going on , I filled this tank yesterday with just freshwater to check for any leaks and I'm sure glad I did.
I'm having some problems I think with not having any adjustable overflow tubes in the external overflows, this is causing some surging with air pockets down to the bottom in the sumps. Anyone have some ideas to fix this problem? I'm probably goig to take those 1 1/2" pipes out of those overflows in the bottoms tanks, just seems like theres not enough volume of space to hold the flow, that might be part of the problem too.
Also there is not enough return flow coming back to the top of the tank from each pump, so it looks like I'm taking all the 3/4" pvc apart and going to change to spa flex hose and just run each pump to each bulkhead on the back of the tank.
If someone can help me out I would really appreciate it.
Heres whats going on , I filled this tank yesterday with just freshwater to check for any leaks and I'm sure glad I did.
I'm having some problems I think with not having any adjustable overflow tubes in the external overflows, this is causing some surging with air pockets down to the bottom in the sumps. Anyone have some ideas to fix this problem? I'm probably goig to take those 1 1/2" pipes out of those overflows in the bottoms tanks, just seems like theres not enough volume of space to hold the flow, that might be part of the problem too.
Also there is not enough return flow coming back to the top of the tank from each pump, so it looks like I'm taking all the 3/4" pvc apart and going to change to spa flex hose and just run each pump to each bulkhead on the back of the tank.
erics3000
Active member
SUMP
I don’t really understand your sump? What is the back area for? Is it for a cryptic zone? How does the water get back there? The drain pipe does it go to a T than to both sides of pipes with the slots cut in them?
DRAIN RETURN
I don't understanding what you mean about taking out 1 1/2 return. The bigger return pipe I would not see a problem. A 2nd pipe for back up is a good idea? Do you have any pics of your pipe in the return box? That might be where your problem is.
PUMP FLOW
I am not sure what kind of flow is coming from your pumps. You will loose a little flow from the pipe head height and than if you split it that will obviously take a little more. I am sure you already know what I mean with your mechanical back ground. Have you thought about getting a dart for a return pump? They are decent on electrical consumption and have some decent flow while not being that loud and reliable. $$$ It’s all adds up. If you do like you were talking about with out splitting the flow from the pump coming back to your tank, than that should help you on the flow you’re looking for.
Let’s see some better pics of your return pipes in the over flow box..
I don’t really understand your sump? What is the back area for? Is it for a cryptic zone? How does the water get back there? The drain pipe does it go to a T than to both sides of pipes with the slots cut in them?
DRAIN RETURN
I don't understanding what you mean about taking out 1 1/2 return. The bigger return pipe I would not see a problem. A 2nd pipe for back up is a good idea? Do you have any pics of your pipe in the return box? That might be where your problem is.
PUMP FLOW
I am not sure what kind of flow is coming from your pumps. You will loose a little flow from the pipe head height and than if you split it that will obviously take a little more. I am sure you already know what I mean with your mechanical back ground. Have you thought about getting a dart for a return pump? They are decent on electrical consumption and have some decent flow while not being that loud and reliable. $$$ It’s all adds up. If you do like you were talking about with out splitting the flow from the pump coming back to your tank, than that should help you on the flow you’re looking for.
Let’s see some better pics of your return pipes in the over flow box..
Eric thanks for the reply I had a good laugh with the cryptic zone.
Those pictures were taken the night before.
I drilled (5) 2" holes in the dividers so the water would be tied together in front to rear.
I haven't decided if I'm going to to run an internal skimmer in those rear sections or plumb an external next the the stand.
I wanted to design shelving with eggrate under the horizontal tubing (with slits) so I can stack biocubes and bio balls... Sort of like a wet/dry is.
Today I took off all the 3/4" return pipes that ran back up to the top of the tank. I found out there were too many T's and 45's and had no pressure to speak of.
I decided to run each mag-drive to each bulkhead on the rear of the tank and seems to help ot a whole lot better. Tomorrow I'm ordering the flow accelerators from DFS, those should help also.
I also found out the volume of water coming down from above was too much for those small boxes and water couldn't escape fast enough through the slotted pvc.
I had to turn the valves down to control the gravity down flow.
If I knew that this was going to be this big of a pain in the a@@ with this tank, I would have just went with the 300 gallon marineland tank with internal overflow kit and been done with it.
My 125 AGA has a mag 24 on it and runs flawlessly. I just thought I could duplicate it with a couple more pumps. Not So!!!
I will get some pic up tomorrow so you can see what I've changed.
Those pictures were taken the night before.
I drilled (5) 2" holes in the dividers so the water would be tied together in front to rear.
I haven't decided if I'm going to to run an internal skimmer in those rear sections or plumb an external next the the stand.
I wanted to design shelving with eggrate under the horizontal tubing (with slits) so I can stack biocubes and bio balls... Sort of like a wet/dry is.
Today I took off all the 3/4" return pipes that ran back up to the top of the tank. I found out there were too many T's and 45's and had no pressure to speak of.
I decided to run each mag-drive to each bulkhead on the rear of the tank and seems to help ot a whole lot better. Tomorrow I'm ordering the flow accelerators from DFS, those should help also.
I also found out the volume of water coming down from above was too much for those small boxes and water couldn't escape fast enough through the slotted pvc.
I had to turn the valves down to control the gravity down flow.
If I knew that this was going to be this big of a pain in the a@@ with this tank, I would have just went with the 300 gallon marineland tank with internal overflow kit and been done with it.
My 125 AGA has a mag 24 on it and runs flawlessly. I just thought I could duplicate it with a couple more pumps. Not So!!!
I will get some pic up tomorrow so you can see what I've changed.
erics3000
Active member
Either way its always a PITA..hehehe. I try to make sure some of my equipment will work if I get a bigger display. If I change my display form a 300 to like a 600 down the road. My skimmer fuge and sump should be adaquate. Just stuff to always keep int he back of your mind..
I like the flow accelerators and penductors. They are designed for a higher pressure pump but they still help. There are a couple DIY threads on them with just making them from PVC. But you can beat the price from DFS.
Instead of BIO balls you can use some rock and a little light on oppostite your display lights will help your PH at night and the rock will also act as a filtration and pod factory. I used 2 little pieces of live rock and a bunch of base rock for like 2$ a lb and my base already has coraline on it and pods are all over the place.
I still want your car. hahahha
I like the flow accelerators and penductors. They are designed for a higher pressure pump but they still help. There are a couple DIY threads on them with just making them from PVC. But you can beat the price from DFS.
Instead of BIO balls you can use some rock and a little light on oppostite your display lights will help your PH at night and the rock will also act as a filtration and pod factory. I used 2 little pieces of live rock and a bunch of base rock for like 2$ a lb and my base already has coraline on it and pods are all over the place.
I still want your car. hahahha
Didn't know that , thanks for the info. I'm going to look up a search on adjustable overflow tubes made from pvc ( the ones where there are air reliefs in the top)
Anyone have a link to those threads?
That sounds like a great idea with the live rock, I never knew that abou tthe ph, do I need any type of special light like a high output or something?
I just remebmber someone mentioning ph swings during the summer when their A/C would run.
hahaha .....thanks I get alot of complements of my car when I'm at the track, kinda make you feel good about something that took alot of time and money to accomplish. Now I just have to figure out this reef stuff!!!
Anyone have a link to those threads?
That sounds like a great idea with the live rock, I never knew that abou tthe ph, do I need any type of special light like a high output or something?
I just remebmber someone mentioning ph swings during the summer when their A/C would run.
hahaha .....thanks I get alot of complements of my car when I'm at the track, kinda make you feel good about something that took alot of time and money to accomplish. Now I just have to figure out this reef stuff!!!
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Heres a couple pictures I promised of the external overflow box , and the lower tanks with water flowing through them.
If you notice the returns are not running back up the sides to the top. They are plumbed speratly into the back of the bulkheads in the rear of the tank.
I've also started to install acrylic lids to cover up the sumps.
I'm going to have glass starphire lids to cover the openings on the top of the tank. I hope the light isn't restricted doing that.
(400 watt Mh's)
If you notice the returns are not running back up the sides to the top. They are plumbed speratly into the back of the bulkheads in the rear of the tank.
I've also started to install acrylic lids to cover up the sumps.
I'm going to have glass starphire lids to cover the openings on the top of the tank. I hope the light isn't restricted doing that.
(400 watt Mh's)
erics3000
Active member
Here is the Over Flow pipes i built.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1164144&perpage=25&pagenumber=11
Here is a couple links for other over flow pipes
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1310585
http://www.dursostandpipes.com/
For lighting it doesn't have to be too crazy. A lot of people get away with thoes flood lights form HD. I have a old set of PC on my fuge with a pair of flood lights. I know Marc has some info on his site. If you haven't checked out his site it is worth a little time. When I first started I got a lot of info from there and RC.
www.melevsreef.com
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1164144&perpage=25&pagenumber=11
Here is a couple links for other over flow pipes
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1310585
http://www.dursostandpipes.com/
For lighting it doesn't have to be too crazy. A lot of people get away with thoes flood lights form HD. I have a old set of PC on my fuge with a pair of flood lights. I know Marc has some info on his site. If you haven't checked out his site it is worth a little time. When I first started I got a lot of info from there and RC.
www.melevsreef.com
