Tek light fan mod
- Thread starter painkiller1009
- Start date
painkiller1009
Member
Never did test the par I would still like to but now my bulbs are around 8 months old. Looks like their holding up better then before.
The hole fixture is cool to the touch.
The hole fixture is cool to the touch.
Zach.Attack6
New member
Looks nice, want to se those par readings
painkiller1009
Member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15575225#post15575225 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mikesin
I'll be doing the same mod with-in a week or two, I have the fans, controller and power supply on their way. Unfortunately I don't have access to a PAR meter
That is my problem.
I had a person offer to let me use their par meter but they were waiting on the new unit to get delivered. I asked a lil bit later to see if it came in but it hadn't. I never did follow up on it.
I will prolly be taking down this tank and selling this light soon and going with a 6x80w ATI sunpower on my 120 project.
kretzkiller
New member
sick mod.
mikesin
New member
I guess you would have to know the exact temp.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2009/3/review/view?searchterm=t5
states "These lamps are most efficient at about 77° F., however, they are designed to operate at about 100° F. Light generation drops about 1% for every 2° F. rise in temperature above 77° F. This is due to the internal pressure of the lamp, which is directly related to light output - pressure is sensitive to temperature. A small fan might serve too purposes - light output is potentially increased if lamps are cool, and heat transfer to the aquarium water is decreased."
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2009/3/review/view?searchterm=t5
states "These lamps are most efficient at about 77° F., however, they are designed to operate at about 100° F. Light generation drops about 1% for every 2° F. rise in temperature above 77° F. This is due to the internal pressure of the lamp, which is directly related to light output - pressure is sensitive to temperature. A small fan might serve too purposes - light output is potentially increased if lamps are cool, and heat transfer to the aquarium water is decreased."
painkiller1009
Member
The splash guard is still hot, and I can feel the hot air blowing out the holes I drilled on the end of the fixture. What I did is use epmd weatherstriping to seal up the fixture and cut the reflectors to send the air flow where I wanted it.
I have all 3 fans set at different levels. The far right one is on 3/4 full this is to cool the ballasts, center is on 1/4ish to cool the hot air from the ballasts, and the left is on 1/2 to push cool air down to flow along the bulbs and exits the 4 holes I drilled in the end.
I had an infared heat gun and took some readings to try to get the bulb temp where I needed it but was hard since I had to have the splash guard in place to make the air flow along the bulbs. So I just took the readings off the air that was being pushed out. You have to account for some of the heat coming from the ballasts though with this reading. To bad I dont remember any of the readings I took. lol Maybe my buddy that helped can remember and will chime in on this thread.
I have all 3 fans set at different levels. The far right one is on 3/4 full this is to cool the ballasts, center is on 1/4ish to cool the hot air from the ballasts, and the left is on 1/2 to push cool air down to flow along the bulbs and exits the 4 holes I drilled in the end.
I had an infared heat gun and took some readings to try to get the bulb temp where I needed it but was hard since I had to have the splash guard in place to make the air flow along the bulbs. So I just took the readings off the air that was being pushed out. You have to account for some of the heat coming from the ballasts though with this reading. To bad I dont remember any of the readings I took. lol Maybe my buddy that helped can remember and will chime in on this thread.
blennymower
New member
Hey thanks for linking me your thread. I'm going to go the same route as you, I've actually ordered the same fans you're using.
A couple of questions, Is you're fixture longer than 48"? It sure looks like it. Mine is a 48" long, would 2 fans be fine?
Where the cables that came with the fans and controller enough or did you have to extend them?
A couple of questions, Is you're fixture longer than 48"? It sure looks like it. Mine is a 48" long, would 2 fans be fine?
Where the cables that came with the fans and controller enough or did you have to extend them?
painkiller1009
Member
I was going to comment on this the other day but reefcentral was acting up.
The fixture is 48". I think 2 fans should be fine since I don't have to run mine at 100%.
The cables where long enough no extinctions were needed.
The fixture is 48". I think 2 fans should be fine since I don't have to run mine at 100%.
The cables where long enough no extinctions were needed.
lighthouze08
Member
lighthouze08
Member
Each fan has a knob to control the speed right on the fixture itself
lighthouze08
Member
the fixture in the picture is 48" 6 bulbs fixture. i used these fans here
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835200028
moondoggy4
Team RC
Very cool, I got the Tek Elite 6 bulb 54 watt your guys fans are probably better than the ones the Tek is using.
milkman55
New member
A few questions Lighthouze if I may....
Do you use the acrylic shield?
I thought the goal was to keep the bulb ends cool. Do you think the middle fan is necessary? My eight bulb 48" TEK does not seem to get that hot.
Do you run the fans wide open or something less?
What did you use to cut the sheet metal and get the smooth edges?
Best looking fan mod I have seen. Very clean and functional.
Do you use the acrylic shield?
I thought the goal was to keep the bulb ends cool. Do you think the middle fan is necessary? My eight bulb 48" TEK does not seem to get that hot.
Do you run the fans wide open or something less?
What did you use to cut the sheet metal and get the smooth edges?
Best looking fan mod I have seen. Very clean and functional.
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