Thank You GMaquarium

Sometimes a salt change can occasion alkainity bounces with large water changes. Trace metals in various salts may also vary due to the manufacturing processes.So when a switch is made corals need to adjust . What salt were you using before? I've been thinking about a switch to IO from Coralife because I'd like a little less calcium but I'm wary of making a change after 8+ years of good luck with the Coralife.Metals can effect color. Copper for example suppresses red flouresence. Some with ultra low nutrient systems play with trace metal additions to manipulate colors. I know many switch salts regularly but it's a big change and worrisome to me. On the other hand in an ultra low nutrient system which isn't fed much with 24/7 gac use there may be issues with shortages of iodine( iodate iodide) potassium and perhaps others. None of which are easily measured.
Getting it right is still a good part art. Knowing what is knowable in the science end helps make the brush but we have to paint with it via intuition and personal observation.

BTW are you using a clacium reactor? Corals sink metals and other toxins in their skeltal mass. When it dissolves they release. Depending on the purity of media in a reactor this could cause trouble over time.

I've seen your corals and they look great I hope that pink seriatopora is keeping it's color. Hope to get a chunk of that at some point.

If I were looking at a nutrient deficiency I'd bet on nitrate at 0 vs natural surface water at .2ppm before PO4 at .01 vs natural reef surface water at .005ppm. It's clear the corals use nitrogen to form proteins and things like dna. I don't think they use much PO4 directly. I'd probably try some ammino acids to source bio available nitrogen. From what I have read from Mr Farely aspartic acid .an ammino may be particularly useful to corals.
 
Tom,

I do not use a Ca reactor. I am a two part guy. The BRS materials are mixed as described by them and delivered via timed PD pump.

My Pink BN looks great. Most of my corrals are fine, just some acros are not happy. As for salt, I used Reef Crystals before the change to Instant Ocean. After the first couple water changes and falling CA I have been dosing my new salt with additives to make like my system water. If I had it to do over, I would not have changed salts.

I do ~ 50 gallon changes at a time (~ 15%) I did them once a week untill this most recent concern and ultra low nutrients.

Thanks for your input!
 
I have been testing every batch of water I mix lately. The test results very batch to batch. Disappointing to be sure. Alk has been solid at ~ 12.0 dKH. Ca typically lower on IO - ~ 360 & Mg all over - 1100 up to 1350. I am not crazy about all the testing but nothing to fool with for sure. A part of me wants to go with a high end salt (Brightwell, the new Seachem to name two). Quite honestly, the cost is a significant part of the decision. G likes the Oceanic salt, any other opinions?

Sorry for the thread slide
 
I have been testing every batch of water I mix lately. The test results very batch to batch. Disappointing to be sure. Alk has been solid at ~ 12.0 dKH. Ca typically lower on IO - ~ 360 & Mg all over - 1100 up to 1350. I am not crazy about all the testing but nothing to fool with for sure. A part of me wants to go with a high end salt (Brightwell, the new Seachem to name two). Quite honestly, the cost is a significant part of the decision. G likes the Oceanic salt, any other opinions?

Sorry for the thread slide

I've only ever used one artificial saltmix that I will never use again: Crystal Seas.

IMO Oceanic is very good.
 
Thanks Gary I knew about the "vitamins" in coralife. I think it's the brownish material that floats around when RC or Coralife is mixed. . Doubt it's sugar? Could be absorbic acid(vitamin C) or something else. Never had a problem with it. I think they changed their formula about 6 mos ago and added it. RC had it for quite a while.

Rich I've always used Coralife (8yrs ) and running. I wish calcium was a bit lower but it has nice low alk at around 9dkh and high magnesium over 1400 so it works for me along with limewater dosing and I get it in the 300gallon box at a pretty good price. There is a thread on the Brightwell salt with less than great reviews.Not sure about the Seachem . They used to add extra borate for alkalinity which is basically a useless form since corals only use bicarbonate for calcification.
 
i had the same problem in the 90g....couldn't keep zoos in there...water too clean.

Hi

Zoanthus live on the reef where surface water values for PO4 are .005ppm and NO3 .2ppm.Some varieties of palythoa live in more turbid waters with higher nutirients.
I keep about 50 colonies of zoanthus an palys in my system . They excell in the low PO4(.04ppm) and NO 3( 0.2ppm). Better than when the water was less clean. Zoanthus don't show a feeding response and are highly autotrophic. They like light although they are hardy and tolerate a range of light levels. Intermittant current to keep them free of detritus seems to help too. There are a lot of parsites: nudibranchi, zoa pox, sundial snails etc that can harm them. They also seem to enjoy carbon dosing ( vodka vinegar, vitamin C).
 
I found only few corals that have trouble living in nutrient low water. Some of the octocorals, but for the most part they would slow down in growth not die. In my tanks I like low nutrient, high nutrition.


As for salt I use oceanic because it allows me to get away from reactors and two part. Have not dosed Ca or mag in a long time, only sometimes dose alk to keep it up (8-9 dkh)I also go through quite a bit salt so oceanic is more economical. If I had more time on my hands maybe I would go with instant ocean and boost it up. If I had more money in my pocket I would go with the seachem salinity blend. Although I have not truly tested it. But oceanic works great and has been very consistent unlike many other brands. The elevated numbers in oceanic end up working in my favor.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top