Thanks for the frags

pouponfrance

New member
Thanks again Dan for the frags, and Russ for the hosting. I took Russ's advice and used a toothpick to wedge the bigger one onto a rock and found him missing in the morning. I found him last night blown behind all of my rock but managed to get him out with a long fork and he's doing well now. Have him in a cup with netting and my daughters pony tail holder (not used).

I just got a small coral and fairy wrasse from Mr Aqua but I'm not sure what it is, I'm gonna start surfing the net. It looks like a mushroom but neon green hair filaments pop out when it's comfortable and he told me three times but I still couldn't get it. Bastard was $79 and the size of a half dollar. I couldn't understand what (Eddie?) was saying to me, couldn't make out his name too well either. We had a fifteen minute conversation and I picked up maybe 10 percent of what he repeated back to me. Seems like a nice enough guy.

Also got two plastic fifty gallon water containers from Co. Aggrofeed for $125, any feedback on them? And I was wrong when I said I had crushed coral, I've got aragonite special grade.

Poupon
 
I believe it is John and Alex at Mr. Aqua, and you want to talk to John. His English is much better.

Glad you have Aragonite sand instead of crushed coral. CC is a huge nitrate trap and really hard to clean.
 
Those containers should be fine if they are food grade. That was definitely Alex you were talking to. That reminds me, I still need to frag you up some zoos.
 
Got a pic of the mushroom with green filaments? How would you describe it--hard coral, softy, stalk, branching, etc.?

Forks, toothpics...sounds like dinner. I've found that my sump is a good place to acclimate stuff. I have the same kind of light Russ has over his--the $40 outdoor 6,500K fluorescent, so they get the right spectrum--and the water flow is slower than in the main tank, so things settle and attach to the rubble quicker. I'd still use the cup with rubble in the bottom and mesh on top for things that tend to float away, like the xenia. Once it attaches it's easy to relocate it to the main tank.
 
One thing I always ask before getting any new fish is whether it's reef/invert safe, and which species of fish it may have issues with. You'd be surprised how many fish will battle with each other or eat your SPS, zoos, shrooms, shrimp, crabs, etc.

One thing I've heard about wrasses is they are notorious jumpers.
 
I got a food grade plastic barrel from the Pepsi bottling plant for $5. I'm guessing it holds about 50 gallons. All I had to do was cut half of the top off with a jigsaw to make a hinged lid, then pressure wash out any residue from the syrup (mine smelled like Mountain Dew) with plain water. I added a $15 swamp cooler float valve from Home Depot for the RO/DI unit to give the unit an auto shutoff capability. I've been using it for a year now with no issues.
 
corner of Barnes and Austin Bluffs

corner of Barnes and Austin Bluffs

They've got several different sizes and there's a bulkhead there as well.

Not sure how to post photos, think they're in my gallery though if I did it right.

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7247552#post7247552 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Crit21
I got a food grade plastic barrel from the Pepsi bottling plant for $5. I'm guessing it holds about 50 gallons. All I had to do was cut half of the top off with a jigsaw to make a hinged lid, then pressure wash out any residue from the syrup (mine smelled like Mountain Dew) with plain water. I added a $15 swamp cooler float valve from Home Depot for the RO/DI unit to give the unit an auto shutoff capability. I've been using it for a year now with no issues.

Do you have any pics? Do they have more available? That's a great price!
 
Dan, don't you worry about the float for the swamp cooler having metal in the valve body. I don't know if it is enough to hurt, maybe somebody elso knows. When I was looking for an auto shut off everyone said to buy the expensive plastic ones.
 
Eric, I have a 55 gallon plastic barrel that you can have. I have been using mine for about 2 years now. I cut the top off and it is very sturdy. All you will need to do is add a bulkhead.
 
Yes, it's metal. After a year of using it, my thriving reef system is proof that the water quality is fine. Now if I was using copper tubing between the filtration system and the reservoir barrel, or if there was salt water in the tubing, that might be different.
 
I also wanted to say thanks to Dan and Russ for the frags, and thanks to Russ for all the great food and eye candy. It was great meeting everyone. I have been busy with work and school or I would have posted earlier. All the frags I got at the meeting are doing great. My biggest surprise was the devils thumb frag. It is amazingly beautiful when all the its polyps are extended.
 
Joe, you're welcome. I got the devil's hand (I keep calling it "thumb" by mistake) from a local member (Sea6) a year ago. Given the right lighting and water conditions it will get very large and shed frags on its own.

Racer, I asked wetwebmedia about the brass in the float valve (subject: brass RO fittings). Basically, as long as I'm not deionizing the RO water they say I'll have no problem. DI water, however, is very reactive. If I add DI to the water supply I'll have to switch to all-plastic. My reef tank is flourishing, so I don't see a real need to use DI at the moment. Of course, putting brass in contact with the reservoir water or salt water is always a no-no.
 
Racer, I asked wetwebmedia about the brass in the float valve (subject: brass RO fittings). Basically, as long as I'm not deionizing the RO water they say I'll have no problem. DI water, however, is very reactive. If I add DI to the water supply I'll have to switch to all-plastic.

Dan, glad you asked WWM. I do run DI, and I am happy to know that if I need a new float, I won't make the mistake of buying a metal one. At least it will work for you without the DI. Just don't be like me and forget what you know works and then go and change it. :lol:
 
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