Well, figure I'll post this here... So I have future reference of my insanity...
A little fishkeeper who's recently gotten mobile, made me realize I need to rejig my aquarium controllers... He has a love of all that is LCD and buttons.
Luckily I was running standard heaters, set to 85f - not the 168f he managed to dial in
So other than a brief warm-up, and a flashy LCD backlight showing an out of range condition; no damage.
That said - its time to upgrade 3 tanks with new electronics, where we can omit the local controls. (Harder for a 15month old to unlock a cellphone/tablet, open a webpage, and reconfigure things). My tanks are salt and freshwater, so we're going to make a few compromises to keep things non-application specific.
One of the goals here is to keep this project CHEAP.
So, the choices of controllers are much more varied of late... I kind of want to step away from the arduino truth be told. ARM adds options not available in arduino, and increases some headaches...
The obvious choice was the beaglebone black. Unfortunately my original beaglebone had nothing but issues; a friend at the hackerspace - just RMA'd his black for a 3rd time... So ... Not the beaglebone. Pi's awesome - but are a royal pain to get IO's.
Kinda brought me back to the other reliable ARM MCU...
Teensy 3.0 https://solarbotics.com/product/52060/
Started with the pH circuit. Now the one glitch with the Teensy is the 3.3v logic. My gripe with most of the circuits I've used for pH measurement was the funky voltages, and ranges... So I headed down to the hackerspace and talked to my buddy dan - who's a genius with these analog circuits... Handed him this http://blea.ch/wiki/images/2/24/PH-sch.jpg and asked if we could make this run off 5v and output 3.3v logic - without going into a negative voltage output.
Basically a single OPA2349 to replace the TL062's - same configuration, a minor revision with a voltage divider at J1, and we're set to go. Yes it's a surface mount component... Luckily it's a big surface mount component
Total cost of the pH circuit? <8$
The rest is pretty easy peasy - we've done this before, only glitch is making sure you order 3.3v compatible components... Those cheap ebay 25amp SSR's - seem to work down to 2.5v (from testing) claim 3 - so 3.3v shouldn't be an issue. Local i2c LCD's and keypads are possible for those who want them. As usual the DS18B20's will be used for temperature. There's some minimal changes as we convert a few pieces over to 3.3v, but it's all pretty standard.
PWM dimming for LEDs, implements almost identically to the arduino controllers, I've got a project coming up in mind for this, but it'll be after the main controller is done.
As far as the web interface - I'm going in a totally different direction...
The 3.3/5v compatible SDcard readers on ebay are about 2$ We've seen these used before...
But how does that solve our web interface?
http://hackaday.com/2013/08/12/hacking-transcend-wifi-sd-cards/
So these "Wifi enabled" SD cards - are small standalone ARM powered linux devices
90% of them are easily hacked - appear to all have similar 'failures' in the security department. So basically we just need to reconfigure the web-server to serve the webpages we want... Best part - you can get one for about 30$
For me 99% will be monitoring, but I'm sure its possible to have the web interface drop a configuration file onto the Fat32 volume, and have the teensy assimilate that into the program.
Nice part here is - the handling of the web interface - is off the MCU, so the teensy remains a dedicated controller - if the web's hacked / goes haywire - the MCU is still independent - and shouldn't suffer if the ethernet fails.
Programming side - I'm going to struggle with... Quickly asked D0ughb0y for permission (and it was granted) to steal/butcher his code used on http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2332822 the Neptune Apex, Once I've got some hardware breadboarded, I'll start seeing how badly I can butcher his code
Hoping to have some pics and schematics up in the next couple weeks, this time I'm going to test first before posting
And still waiting on a bunch of slow boats from china at the moment...
Questions/Comments/Suggestions/Missing features??? Speak up!
Andy
A little fishkeeper who's recently gotten mobile, made me realize I need to rejig my aquarium controllers... He has a love of all that is LCD and buttons.
Luckily I was running standard heaters, set to 85f - not the 168f he managed to dial in

That said - its time to upgrade 3 tanks with new electronics, where we can omit the local controls. (Harder for a 15month old to unlock a cellphone/tablet, open a webpage, and reconfigure things). My tanks are salt and freshwater, so we're going to make a few compromises to keep things non-application specific.
One of the goals here is to keep this project CHEAP.
So, the choices of controllers are much more varied of late... I kind of want to step away from the arduino truth be told. ARM adds options not available in arduino, and increases some headaches...
The obvious choice was the beaglebone black. Unfortunately my original beaglebone had nothing but issues; a friend at the hackerspace - just RMA'd his black for a 3rd time... So ... Not the beaglebone. Pi's awesome - but are a royal pain to get IO's.
Kinda brought me back to the other reliable ARM MCU...
Teensy 3.0 https://solarbotics.com/product/52060/
And... 20$ Who can argue with 20$? Note - it has a real time clock on-board, just need to add crystal/battery. So no additional 10-20$ for the 1307 RTC shield/plug-in/circuit.Specifications
MK20DX128 32 bit ARM Cortex-M4 48 MHz
128K Flash Memory
16K RAM Memory
2K EEPROM Memory
I/O - 34, 3.3 Volt
12 Analog inputs
10 PWM outputs
8 Timers (isolated from the PWM)
USB with dedicated DMA memory transfer
3 UART serial ports,
1 I2C
1 SPI
1 I2S
1 IR modulator
Real Time Clock (add your own 32.768MHz crystal & battery)
4 general purpose DMA channels separate from USB DMA
Touch sensor inputs
Started with the pH circuit. Now the one glitch with the Teensy is the 3.3v logic. My gripe with most of the circuits I've used for pH measurement was the funky voltages, and ranges... So I headed down to the hackerspace and talked to my buddy dan - who's a genius with these analog circuits... Handed him this http://blea.ch/wiki/images/2/24/PH-sch.jpg and asked if we could make this run off 5v and output 3.3v logic - without going into a negative voltage output.
Basically a single OPA2349 to replace the TL062's - same configuration, a minor revision with a voltage divider at J1, and we're set to go. Yes it's a surface mount component... Luckily it's a big surface mount component

The rest is pretty easy peasy - we've done this before, only glitch is making sure you order 3.3v compatible components... Those cheap ebay 25amp SSR's - seem to work down to 2.5v (from testing) claim 3 - so 3.3v shouldn't be an issue. Local i2c LCD's and keypads are possible for those who want them. As usual the DS18B20's will be used for temperature. There's some minimal changes as we convert a few pieces over to 3.3v, but it's all pretty standard.
PWM dimming for LEDs, implements almost identically to the arduino controllers, I've got a project coming up in mind for this, but it'll be after the main controller is done.
As far as the web interface - I'm going in a totally different direction...
The 3.3/5v compatible SDcard readers on ebay are about 2$ We've seen these used before...
But how does that solve our web interface?
http://hackaday.com/2013/08/12/hacking-transcend-wifi-sd-cards/
So these "Wifi enabled" SD cards - are small standalone ARM powered linux devices

For me 99% will be monitoring, but I'm sure its possible to have the web interface drop a configuration file onto the Fat32 volume, and have the teensy assimilate that into the program.
Nice part here is - the handling of the web interface - is off the MCU, so the teensy remains a dedicated controller - if the web's hacked / goes haywire - the MCU is still independent - and shouldn't suffer if the ethernet fails.
Programming side - I'm going to struggle with... Quickly asked D0ughb0y for permission (and it was granted) to steal/butcher his code used on http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2332822 the Neptune Apex, Once I've got some hardware breadboarded, I'll start seeing how badly I can butcher his code

Hoping to have some pics and schematics up in the next couple weeks, this time I'm going to test first before posting

Questions/Comments/Suggestions/Missing features??? Speak up!

Andy