The club frag tank build

As for the stands, how about building something similar to a collapsible waterbed stand? It could easily support the weight and could break down to a very small area for storage.
 
I talked to my Pops and he's cool storing the tank(s) and stand(s) in his garage. We can also build the stand there as a place for assembly. I have a framing nail gun and compressor I can keep there as well as a number of tools for working on it. All we need is some lumber and a decision on what size we want to build? :D
 
There are problems with two tanks also, If they are plumbed together, they are going to need to be side by side or some other close arrangement so that people are not tripping on the plumbing. I think long term, it will be better to stay with one large tank. Having your frags in the middle does not meen that they are buried behind someone elses frags, you get a section that is two feet long (from the center out) and then how ever wide you need for your frags.
 
well we could arrange the tanks inline with each other along the wall. Sellers behind their respective frags.
I think it is a good idea, will this cost more Eric??
We could still light the whole thing with the same amount of light, and you guys are right, it would be easier for the sellers to be near their frags.
Thank's for bringing it up guy's!
Chris
 
Would take a little more acrylic, and more work but if we are buying 3 sheets, I'll make it work without any extra cost.
 
Thank You Eric, if we had to hire a shop to build this we would be out of club funds, we are lucky to have you.
:bounce1::bounce3::bounce2::dance::celeb3::celeb1::celeb2::love1:
Sorry, I was having a Tim moment there with all the smilies
 
This picture is getting me excited, look at all those large frag tank systems!
And Randy is there!

This is a pic from Fragapalooza at OFA
fragapalooza1.jpg
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I got some fragging done last night. I was moving some rocks in the tank, and decided to do some fragging. I fragged 2 orange yumas, a green polyped toadstool, sinularia, and devils hand.
 
Good idea Cliff, we talked about having interceptor in the vat the whole time, I don't know who's gonna donate a pill to the cause.
I'm hoping Scott or somebody will have lots of TMPCC for sale, I'd hope everybody will dip their stuff after buying from the swap.

Maybe the club could buy a couple bottles and donate a few squirts of TMPCC to buyers that don't want to buy a large bottle?
I think I'll look into buying some small containers that would hold a tiny amount and we could give them to buyers, I know that stuff will knock off flatworms and red bugs.

Thanks for suggesting it Cliff, you got my brain working.

I am heading to California next weekend for www.reefapalooza.org
I am hoping to get some cool ideas for our swap..............as well as some nice frags ofcourse ;)
 
What do you dip zoas in? is there a special zoa dip? I don't buy them anymore so I'm kind of out of the loop on the zoa technique.
 
http://www.clay-boa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1248
Something is changing the url, it is club-zoa

Ingredients/Parts:
1. 5 gallon white bucket, with 3 gallons of RO water.
2. Add 1 or 2 drops of Lugol's Iodine per gallon of RO water.
3. Set your PH to 8.2
4. Set your water temp. at 78 degrees
5. If you have some Flatworm exit (FWE) made my Saliferts, add 2 drops per gallon to the RO water to kill any Flatworms.
6. Setup a wash off container (with your tank water) to place zoas after dip


Treatment:
- Leave the rock in the solution for 5 minutes.
- For a minute or two pick up the rock and twist it back and forth like you are trying to shake the pests off of it (think washing mashine). I like to use a small powerhead to give me some more blast power.
- Take the colony out and examine for any small Nudibranch eggs:
Quote:
Originally Posted by MUCHO
inspect the rock for what looks like a tiny white 1/8 of and inch curly white piece of thread. They won't detach from the rock as the sack is very sticky. Inside this egg sack is up to 40 or so eggs just waiting to hatch. If you see one, just remove it with tweezers before placing the rock back into your reef.
- Place the rock back into the tank for another minute of twisting but after the minute is done dunk the colony in and out to get rid of any loose pests.
- I like to wash off any and all solutions in another container that has tank water in it. I don't treat my tank with Iodine or Flatworm Exit so I like to wash off as much as possible in another container before placing it in my tank.

Post Treatment:
- Run at most Actinic lights for the rest of the day.
- Place zoas in a higher flow setting to blow off any slime that may be produced. (Not SPS type flow).

Experience:
- I am pretty careful about what I put into my tank so everything gets examined before buying or trading. I have yet to need or see zoas on any colonies I buy, but I still do this as a precaution. Better safe than sorry I say.

Other info:
- Keep in mind that while MUCHO suggests using Lugol's it isn't always the easiest thing to find. You can get a reef version made by Kent or Reef Pure which will be more expensive than the medical version, but much easier to get your hands on. But if you think about it the bottle should last you a some time.

BTW: Keep in mind that future Club-Zoa Care Spotlights will feature the predators mentioned in this spotlight.
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that link didn't work for me. I did a little research on RC in the zoa forum, seems like the TMPCC will work also freshwater works.
Try to re-do that link or maybe it's my computer?
C
 
ok sounds like the TMPCC will work since its reported to be mostly Lugols. I like the tip though, I usually do a 15 minute dip for SPS seems to get rid of most of the problems. the mysis and crabs bail out and die within a minute or 2 so I'm guessing the other nasties do the same.
 
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