**The GHL Mitras LX7 LED**

[VJV]

**The GHL Mitras LX7 LED**

Thanks Scott. Problem is that visually the solution is not very appealing considering I do not have a canopy. I have asked Matthias from GHL directly whether they could make such a rail. The way I see it it should be very simple. They would just need to make longer lengths of the top arm of the flex mount and using the acrylic attachments for the Flex mount you could slide in your Mitras. A couple of days ago I asked the same thing to Giesemann to suspend several Vervve units and they told me they actually make them upon request for their customers.


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[VJV]

One other thing: do you think that for a 22 inch wide tank I would get good front to back coverage having the Mitras parallel to the length of the tank?


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[VJV]

I created a rail mount out of 8020. I cant change the angle, only position.



<a href="http://imgur.com/VxsBFV1"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/VxsBFV1.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Thanks! Sorry for the stupid question but what is 8020..? The spec of the aluminum rail?


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[VJV]

I created a rail mount out of 8020. I cant change the angle, only position.



<a href="http://imgur.com/VxsBFV1"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/VxsBFV1.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

How wide is your tank and how do you find front to back coverage with that positioning?


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[mako61]

Not a stupid question..

Its a website that lets to get T-slot Aluminum cut to your spec.

https://8020.net/

I kinda had fun figuring out how to make my mount. The only tricky thing was attaching the light to the mount.

 

[slief]

Thanks Scott. Problem is that visually the solution is not very appealing considering I do not have a canopy. I have asked Matthias from GHL directly whether they could make such a rail. The way I see it it should be very simple. They would just need to make longer lengths of the top arm of the flex mount and using the acrylic attachments for the Flex mount you could slide in your Mitras. A couple of days ago I asked the same thing to Giesemann to suspend several Vervve units and they told me they actually make them upon request for their customers.


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Problem is that if you only had the one vertical support on the back, the weight of multiple fixtures on a long arm like that would cause it to bend. You would need to support in multiple places like in Mako's photo which wouldn't work well on a peninsula unless you had two of the flex mounts with one at each end. Then you would need to use something more rigid than acrylic between the two to prevent the lights from sagging.

 

[mako61]

My tank it 22 inches deep. I think the coverage is fine lengthwise mounting. I think I could even drop them down a bit.

I did make the mount to hold 3 lights. my tank is 60 wide so they each cover 22x30 each. I may add a third in the future. Then it would be 22x20 each.

 

[mako61]

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwjh_Pj6nAURoQ1nYIG9qsw

Reef dude has a peninsula mount out of I think 8020. He just went with a little bigger T-slot. 8020 has a calculator then will tell you exactly how much it flexes under load. He attached his a little better than I did to his frame to handle the load from the longer arm.

 

[Devi]

How many would I need for a 300 gallon tank that's 96 x 30 x 24?

 

[VJV]

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwjh_Pj6nAURoQ1nYIG9qsw



Reef dude has a peninsula mount out of I think 8020. He just went with a little bigger T-slot. 8020 has a calculator then will tell you exactly how much it flexes under load. He attached his a little better than I did to his frame to handle the load from the longer arm.

Thanks [emoji106]. I am subscriber of ReefDude YouTube channel so I had seen his mount. I assume 8020 is in the US so I am out of luck over here (Portugal). Need to dig deeper.


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[VJV]

**The GHL Mitras LX7 LED**

Problem is that if you only had the one vertical support on the back, the weight of multiple fixtures on a long arm like that would cause it to bend. You would need to support in multiple places like in Mako's photo which wouldn't work well on a peninsula unless you had two of the flex mounts with one at each end. Then you would need to use something more rigid than acrylic between the two to prevent the lights from sagging.

I only want a suspension mount, like the RMS suspension arm.

I do not need any vertical support. Just hang it from the ceiling, like my current Giesemann Matrixx ii 8x80w dimmable T5 unit.

I understand that with DYI I could achieve anything but why not simply extend their Flex mount system to include a neat and tidy solution like the RMS suspension mount? I am sure a lot more users would look at Mitras, especially with rimless and canopy less tanks being in fashion.



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[garbermatt]

Alright this is officially the most expensive thread I've ever read. You guys convinced me to take back my (still in the box) T247s and buy two of these instead.

 

[ClownReef®]

Who is succesfully keeping/growing SPS using the fixture?

 

[scuzy]

Well my tanks 95% sps and it's growing with 4 mitras

 

[slief]

Who is succesfully keeping/growing SPS using the fixture?

I am. Both in my frag tank and my main display.

 

[VJV]

Quick question: do I need any additional cables/adaptors to connect the Mitras to the Profilux4 or does everything required come in the box?


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[scuzy]

Think the profilux talks to it throw wireless.

 

[ClownReef®]

I am. Both in my frag tank and my main display.

What project are you running?

 

[GimpyFin]

Mine is mostly sps as well using LX7 Mitras.

 

[slief]

What project are you running?

I just did my own projects both have a 12 hour photo period. The frag tank is running one and the main display is running another. I peak at 16,200k for 4 hours at 75% in HO mode on the main display. There is a 4 hour ramp up starting at 22,000k and a 4 hour ramp down ending at 22,000k. The frag tank is similar though I haven't looked at the programming in several months. It runs in high efficiency mode and peaks at around 70%.

Reality is that it's not rocket science to keep SPS growing under these lights as long as the rest of the system is in check. Use the kelvin slider to come up with a color you like over your tank. Adjust the red's, greens and UV's to bring out colors in your particular corals. Keep UV's below 20% to start. Keep the reds down to avoid nuisance algae growth. Have at least a 4 hour peak. A nice ramp up and a nice ramp down. The mix of the LED's in these fixtures is ideal for growth in corals of all kinds. As such, you're not really going to go wrong unless you cook your corals with too much intensity. Work your way up slowly.

If you want a decent project to start with, download D2 Mini's from the GHL website.