Hey Folks - I just thought I would chime in (late) here.
I have had some terrible bouts with Dinoflagellates over the last 3 - 4 years in various systems. In one particular installation, I fought back and forth between Dinos and Green Hair Algae for over 2 years....! The GHA was a recurring result of aquascaping/surfaces not being grazed due to the presence of (unpalatable) Dinos.... My insanity (aka repetitious yet unsuccessful regime) can be summed up as multiple treatments of Fluconazole (for GHA) and 3-5 day Blackouts (for Dinos) .... Thank goodness for a patient Client.
So, here's what I've been able to learn from scanning this and other forums; finding a few online academic summaries; and of course, through my own frustrations...
1. Dinoflagellates are in every single reef tank. Dinos are the photosynthetic symbionts we have all been referring to as Zooxanthellae. If you have ever seen a stressed coral eject its zooxanthellae, it is the same rusty brown that coats our rocks and sand bed during a Dino outbreak.
2. In the nutrient poor (oligotrophic) waters where our corals naturally occur; they absolutely need the Dinos’ photosynthetic ability to meet their nutritional requirements, and in exchange the corals provide some of the fertilizers (various forms of Nitrogenous compounds, etc) Dinos need to fuel their own solar-powered production. However, the Dinos can find these same nutrients elsewhere in our aquariums…. In other words: the corals need the Dinos more than the Dinos need them.
3. Dinoflagellates settle on surfaces during photo hours; and swim/wander in the dark. This is exactly why a 3-5 day blackout disrupts them so successfully – however a blackout on its own is not a permanent fix for our Dino problems.
I’m sure there are many other subtleties to our complex ecosystems, however the points above are contextual for my own success in defeating dino outbreaks more than a few times. Though it has been mentioned throughout many Dino forums, I will state it here: A properly sized and tuned UV is the key to solving Dino outbreaks long-term. Many of us rely on UV Sterilizers that are either too small for our systems; have the wrong flowrate running through them; or any combination of these two points. Do a bit of research and find a good sizing reference. I like the Aqua-Ultraviolet sizing charts that can be found on their website.
Below is what I have done:
• System A – After fighting Dinos and GHA for almost a year on a 250 Gallon reef tank that I took over servicing; I installed a large 55W High Output UV Sterilizer being run by a 2200gph pump. I instructed the Client to do a 3 day black-out and he has never seen Dinos since. This was immediate and effective. This was almost two years ago, still no Dinos, and no GHA.
• System B – After fighting Dinos and GHA for over 2 years on a tank that I installed with dry rock; I legitimately thought the Client was going to ditch me and his tank when he had to relocate… Fortunately for me, he loves having a piece of the ocean in his office; and gave me free reign to improve on my original setup. This time, I was wise to the value of a correctly spec’d UV and was able to install a 55W HO Unit plumbed directly into his 3000 gph return pump. All of the water runs through this unit before returning to the tank. I can turn this unit off or run it on any schedule I think will work best. In the beginning I only ran the UV over night for 8 hours. To my horror (actually learning opportunity) I began to see another outbreak of Dinoflagellates, even before adding my first corals. This is when I sprang a similar, yet slightly different strategy into action. I implemented a 24-hour (fulltime) UV operation schedule and drastically reduced its flow-through from approx. 2500 gph to somewhere near 700 gph. I tuned it for ‘kill mode’. However, instead of using a blackout for disrupting the Dinos, I physically gravel-washed them into filter socks everyday for a week. This had the effect of throwing them in the sump where they had to pass through the UV before returning to the Display, while avoiding water-changes. After a week, the sand bed was clean, but the reef structure remained coated with Dinos. I was able to spend about three sessions blowing the Dinos from the rock structure (to further disrupt) and performed a few more gravel washes. In some cases, a total blackout is a little less practical. This strategy was a little more work intensive but eventually worked just as successfully. This tank has been Dino-free for about eight months now. If I see any sign of a possible relapse, I simply reduce the UV flowrate back down to ‘kill-mode’ and we’re good to go. Most inspiring about this system is that I was able to accomplish in two weeks, what I could not in two years because I learned how to properly install a UV Sterilizer.
In summary, I would say this. Dinoflagellates no longer must be the curse that drives so may hobbyists away from this beautiful and awe-inspiring pastime. They are totally beatable. Personally I will never install another reef system without a UV from the start. If installed correctly, UV’s are your best insurance policy for solving Dinoflagellate issues. Good Luck All!!
Regards,
Sheldon J
