The "Hitchhiker's Guide" to the Maxi-Stream mod

[BigJPDC]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7052883#post7052883 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BigJPDC
Also, for the 1.75" dumas I saw this:

-1.5" slip coupling for the larger 1.75" Dumas propeller

Do you mean slip bushing, to go from 2" PVC to 1.5" for connection to the MJ? Can you post a closeup of how you got the 2" PVC connected?

thanks!

jp

So, I have the junk together now, and am stuck on getting the shroud attached to the MJ. The problem I'm having is that the space between the slots on the MJ is approx 1.8", and the OD of the 1.5" PVC coupling is 1.9". I couldn't find test caps, so am trying DH's method of cutting the 1.5" PVC to fit, which I do on the table saw using a jig I set up.

DH - how are you shaving that .1" off the end of the PVC to get it to screw into the MJ? This is the only thing in my way now (except for noticing how easy the CF rod frays when I try to cut it - that sucks, should have gone with stainless steel.)

jp

 

[dwdenny]

Thinking MJ600?

Thinking MJ600?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7086443#post7086443 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dhnguyen
You can tell from the impeller.

The MJ400 has a separated impeller head that is green
The MJ600 has the same but in black

The MJ900 has an impeller head that is snapped into the magnet and is black while the MJ1200 is white.


D.

 

[BigJPDC]

also using a ridgid mitre saw, the 12 incher, with a standard blade and not thinking I'll need a different blade to make a few of these mods. The key is to block that piece of PVC good against the fence while you slowly cut. I'm having better luck using the table saw for the shroud openings - I have more control over the depth of the cuts.

HTH

jp

 

[Roland Jacques]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7088584#post7088584 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Snarkys
i emailed that guy twice and he never got back to me. he still in business ? i got my own to work now and don't need this but I'm curious what he charges and what his product looks like.

i think he is having medical issues with his family. not sure. he has not got with me ether. normaly he is very good with that.

i hear his unit work good with newer mj but not so good with my older mj. mine are at least 6 years old. they make a lot of noise and dont seem to fit right had to do some sanding. IMO the price was very good. but i would not get any if you have older mj to put it on.

im going to try the 802 mods. i wonder if they will turn the 2.3" prop. im look a good price on the 802s.

 

[dhnguyen]

Re: Thinking MJ600?

Re: Thinking MJ600?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7089074#post7089074 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dwdenny

That's a MJ900

 

[spazz]

heres is a mod i completed today as a test for a friend. its an interesting little pump to say the least.

 

[dhnguyen]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7089073#post7089073 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BigJPDC
So, I have the junk together now, and am stuck on getting the shroud attached to the MJ. The problem I'm having is that the space between the slots on the MJ is approx 1.8", and the OD of the 1.5" PVC coupling is 1.9". I couldn't find test caps, so am trying DH's method of cutting the 1.5" PVC to fit, which I do on the table saw using a jig I set up.

DH - how are you shaving that .1" off the end of the PVC to get it to screw into the MJ? This is the only thing in my way now (except for noticing how easy the CF rod frays when I try to cut it - that sucks, should have gone with stainless steel.)

jp

It doesn't take any effort at all to grind down that 0.1". I did it with a grinding/sanding dremel bit but if not you can just simply sand it down with sandpaper.

I also use the cutoff wheel from a Dremel to cut the CF rod and never had an issue with it fraying. Don't use a wire cutter on it as that is where it'll fray. You can use a small hacksaw?


D.

 

[dwdenny]

even better that is what I was hoping it was. Thanks. I know the two marineland 660 I have on impeller is shot but the other good. I will have to buy new impellers and start on the mods.

 

[dhnguyen]

Hey spazz those cross braces look awesome man. How did you cut those like that?

 

[spazz]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7089470#post7089470 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dhnguyen
Hey spazz those cross braces look awesome man. How did you cut those like that?

if you notice the pump is sitting on my cnc router. lol

 

[BigJPDC]

thank you DH! - I hadn't thought of the dremmel for cutting the CF, the hacksaw I used splintered the heck out of the CF, and wasn't sure if I was missing something obvious about the .1".

jp

 

[dhnguyen]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7088645#post7088645 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Snarkys
BTW i am using a rigid miter saw and the carbide tip blade that came with it, it doesn't always make the cleanest cuts. the cut is square but isn't very level. there a better blade that i could use ?

I'm using an abrasive masonary blade on the miter.

 

[dhnguyen]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7089493#post7089493 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by spazz
if you notice the pump is sitting on my cnc router. lol

Yeah but I was hoping you had somehow made them without using the CNC :lol: Wish I had access to one

 

[Frunkster]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7086950#post7086950 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hahnmeister
Dude, SCH80 Dark Grey PVC is all you need. I use a dremel on a small Dremel made shaping/routing table. It works perfect for machining the base of the pipes. If its that hard, I could make them for dirt cheap...$5? I wouldnt drill the holes or make the cross brace, but the MJ attachment part is the easiest part to do...

not looking to make profit here...just make it easier for people w/o the skill or tools...

Thank you for the offer & it appreciated , I think the pipe is the problem, we have the same pipe here - but it's inside diameter is a tad less maybe 1 - 2 mm & I can't seem to be able to ream it out straight, which is making an easy job quite difficult:hmm2:

I am making progress & have joined you at last! , I have savaged together a working model, it wont reverse it self with the stopper though it just stops & judders any ideas?, but the flow is out of this world, much better than the maxi with the Dumas prop I got from a guy out there (nowhere near as neat though lol).

But progress is better than procrastination

Here is a link, any comment & constructive criticisms would be appreciated guy's

http://www.reefpark.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=19590&st=0&p=165025&

 

[trodder]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7089962#post7089962 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dhnguyen
Yeah but I was hoping you had somehow made them without using the CNC :lol: Wish I had access to one

i was just over there and he had a huge pile of them stacked up. just ask him to ship you 20 of them. there cheep. they make centering the shaft super easy.

 

[dwdenny]

So what is the best prop to use with this mod now. many have tried different ones but is the dumas still the choice?

thanks
Doug

 

[Drewpy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7083258#post7083258 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by shelburn61
I was just looking for a stationary mount that would allow me to angle the mj.

The magnets are at the home depot... about $5 the rest are plastic parts from the maxi jet box...

There is one small plastic piece you simply rub on some sand paper to whatever angle u want then super glue the mount to the maxi jet. It is quite strong and very simple to do.

The magnets i glued with a two part epoxy to the maxi jet and then coated them with a clear coat paint... (being safe with magnets in the aquarium long term-- although i doubt any of the pump's magnets are coated with anything...)

You could trim the old suction cup holders off with a dremel for a more stream line look...

and some bridal netting allows you to move the pump around without fear of scratching the aquarium with the magnets.

pm me if you are curious and i will take the pump out and take better pictures for u...

 

[orlenz]

I have a mj1200 that will only turn in one direction no matter what I do it allways runs backwards, anybody know where to get right handed plastic props?

 

[hahnmeister]

dwdenny,
Depends on the size MJ...just a page or two back DJ listed the best combos.

You are welcome on the offer Frunkster. The offer goes out to anyone who cant make one of the bases easily. The ones I make are very clean and easy to do. I am not looking to get in trouble for trying to sell things on RC...just want to make that clear. I simply want to help with the DIY goodness by helping make this one part. $5 is a fair price for the time at that.

I hear you on the SCH80 not fitting. Its inner diameter is just slightly less than the base of the MJ, so I use a 1/4" router bit with the dremel routing table to shave out about 1/32".

The router table...#231...
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/attachm...accessory-detail.htm?H=188575&G=69679&I=69680

I use the #654 router bit. First I set the fence on the table to shave about 1/32" out of the inside diameter of the SCH80 pipe, about 1/4" high...like butta!
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/attachm...accessory-detail.htm?H=188567&G=66532&I=66319

Then I set that same bit to take about 3/32" off (1/8" high)of the outside of the pipe diameter...ok, maybe not exactly. I eyeball it and and make one and see if it works on a MJ, then do a few more at once while I have the router set perfect.

Then I remove the router bit, and use this...#801 (I think mine looks different, but its the same idea)
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/attachm...accessory-detail.htm?H=188569&G=66431&I=66432

I set that carbide shaping disk to cut a 3/16" groove around the base of the pipe. This is the groove that the MJ clamps slide onto and around. I have to eyeball it, but the tool leaves a 3/64" disk around the bottom of the pipe.

In the process, the slots for the MJ clamps to get up on this mounting disk are made. The end retult is very pro looking, like it came off of a CNC router. The part I suck at is making the water inlet holes/slots. I like to make them straight in, but then I twist the pipe 45degrees as you can see to angle the intake and minimize turbulence. This requires that I make the holes freehand and the end result is okay, but not pro looking. So if I were to make the bases, I would make them in 2" long, and 4" long. The 1" long is shorter, but so you can mount a 1.5" slip adapter over it and use it with a 1.75" prop or whatever with a larger MJ. The 4" long one would be for use with MJ400 and 600s, as then you would simply drill/saw your own water inlet holes/slots and just use the 4" pipe alone.

 

[dwdenny]

thanks. Will look for some around here but I know there are more fling guys rather then boating so I will have to look online. Search towerhobbies right now will keep looking.