The "Hitchhiker's Guide" to the Maxi-Stream mod

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BTW.... I recently noticed that if you have a problem with the rod being pushed back and forth every once in a while, cut your rigid tube down just a tad shorter. I took 1/8" off and this problem went away. Hope that helps.


D.
 
awesome job.. i need three or four of those..lol.. looks really good what did you use for the end peice.. did you make that?
 
Great thread, I've enjoyed tagging along. Have assorted props coming this week.
Looking forward to making mine.
Question for the pros,
How many and what size MJmods for a 75?
Thanks!
 
for the 75, go with a pair of 400s or 600 if you need lots of flow.

for all of those that have problems like Matt, the prop spins fine and then all of a sudden starts popping out and hitting the stopper and repeating this making all kinds of noise. check to make sure the center brace is perfectly centered. if it is not then fix it and then replace the rigid air line tubing as the CF rod wears it out quite fast if it is unbalanced and wobbling. my rigid tube lasted a week until i noticed what was happening tonight and replaced it. also used some 2500grit sandpaper to smooth the CF rod down. everything works perfect now.

Tim
 
Dhnguyen and Zapata,
Many thanks are due. This worked flawlesssly today after the adjustments you suggested.
My only small contribution is that at least for a 1200 with a 1.5" prop you can use that powerhead guard instead of machining pvc.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7093724#post7093724 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ChemE
1 600 is perfect for my 55. When I added the 2nd on the opposite side of the tank, some of my softies got pretty ticked off. My GSP (which is in the middle where the flows collide) called it a night at 2 in the afternoon!


I am thinking two 400's on a AC junior for some wave action. Should I be using the 1 1/4" props for these little guys? Anyone know approx gph I should expect from these?
Thanks.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7098221#post7098221 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Black71gp
awesome job.. i need three or four of those..lol.. looks really good what did you use for the end peice.. did you make that?

we cut these out on my cnc router. it makes it alot easer to center the shafts this way. it just snaps into place. its a super tight fit so we dont have to glue it in. other wise we couldnt get the prop out of it after its glued in.
 
I just ordered eight of the 1.75 Dumas props from Towerhobbies. I can't wait to get started,with this mod. My tank is BB,and I need more flow. This mod is a life saver. Thanks for all the help,and info. Ted
 
I have uploaded the photos to my RC galleries, can you guy's have a look & let me know please?

Thank you in advance ;)


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7097428#post7097428 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Frunkster
Any chance you guy's could have a look at this thread to see pic's of the 3 I did last night.

http://www.reefpark.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=19590&hl=

Need to know how to change jpeg files to a up loadable format to save this messing about, I apologize. Anyone help this numb nut?

Still not had any sleep yet :) , I need to sort the stoppers out, bar that it's all good :), also what do you think of the propeller selection? any good?, I have done all 3 of the "power to the people" streams with 3 blade propellers which certainly seem to move a lot of water, but & a big but - due to the power supply over here (220-240volt @ 50hz) we get more draw from the Maxie's jet's/other pumps, hence more flow & extra inlet slots to make it work efficiently.

Good news for me in one way though as when we eventually max the mod out in the US I can still experiment with the next prop/pitch size up :)!, bonus.

The tiny micro jet is perfect for nannos or a small frag tank, feels like there's hardly any flow exiting (in comparison) but I took it to a friends house this evening & ran it in his 15gl frag tank & it was keeping the entire tank in suspension, which the standard Maxi 1200 was not.

The Clear seal pump (discontinued Britt pump) was about equivalent to a 6100 stream by the looks of things WOW!

& I thought I had got there first with a beast, but PH Reefs has out done himself this time, good - no fantastically inspirational for us with larger tanks keep it up dude, did you try an Ehiem pump yet?, I think a 1260 would easily have the oupfh required to run a huge prop.

So far I have used these parts that are different to what you guy's are using that "may" be of help to you?.

1. prop shaft made from Titanium rod, no more were issues.

2. outer prop mag connector (rigid air line) is made from carbon fiber tent poles (available free directly after any pop festival in various gages lol) - this stuff is ideal as it's totally rigid hard wearing, easy to cut the slot in & cheep/free from your local camping outlet, just ask for a spare pole as you have snapped one ;).

3. 3 bladed propellers - pro's & con's anyone???

4. a large earth reducing connector for the shroud on the big one, if we could source smaller similar items the mod would be complete (imagine it reversed on a small pump, would look just the same as a Tunze with the right slots)

& Most importantly guy's - how can I implement a stopper in these fixed shaft pumps?
 
nice 802.. what are you using for a center brace doesnt the prop wobble? also where did you get the 3 bladed props?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7099905#post7099905 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Black71gp
nice 802.. what are you using for a center brace doesnt the prop wobble? also where did you get the 3 bladed props?

Thank you by Black71gp ;)

No center brace is needed seeing as it's a fixed shaft pump & no there is no discernible wobble, it self centers due to the shaft, presuming you get a clean straight connection between the mag & prop assembly.

I can't get any of my stopper to work:confused: I think it's due to the fact that I'm using 3bladed propellers, does any one have any experience with these?, the flow however is "Mental mental chicken oriental":D

I tested it against some Tunze 6100's & boy it rock's, both the lfs & the friends tanks I have put them in went cloudy in seconds with the amount of detritus it stirred up, they were all a bit:mad2: but I was real:D considering they are all 200 imperial gallons + tanks all with at least 3 Tunze 6100's running Muharrar

I can get the 3 bladed props here easy from a local model shop (send some over if anyone wants?), but I think it's these that are disabling the stopper (if it's not one thing it's another lol)

The big UN has been running for 12hrs plus in my sump vat & the micro the same in my frag tank, with no audible noise what so ever:rollface: I will take some photos & add them to my gallery;)
 
Black71gp
from what i gathered form Hanhmister the 802 dose not need a center brace.
it also makes no start up noise. it also dosent need a defferent shaft. the stopper is what i dont get. i guess it is just a piece glued to the side of the housing.


Frunkster got it.
hey Frunkster, did you compare the 802 to the 1200?

did you try the 2 blade compared to your three blade?
 
when your 802 starts backwards does the prop come flying out? how did you extend your prop out from the magnet, cpvc? what dia is that 3 blade prop? do you have photos of it broken down?

i want to order some 802s but i want to make sure i can put them on timmers without startup problems. im sure that 3 blade put out more water but i can see why it may not work with a simple stopper.
i was going to go with that 901 but it seems that the 802 better suits my needs. after reading your post i cant wait to going on it.

i think you can make a stop that works for that 3 blade prop. it would probably require a crossbar. i think the easyest place to catch that prop well be the point closest to the shaft/center. something like a simple pin might work.
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7099381#post7099381 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by spazz
we cut these out on my cnc router. it makes it alot easer to center the shafts this way. it just snaps into place. its a super tight fit so we dont have to glue it in. other wise we couldnt get the prop out of it after its glued in.


Ok I'll take 300 of those please :D

Nice work spazz.
 
Frunkster-


If those propellers you're using have the metal threading inserts, you will want to drill them out otherwise you risk them corroding and contaminating your tank. You would happen to know the picth of those would you?

D.
 
Frunkster-


If those propellers you're using have the metal threading inserts, you will want to drill them out otherwise you risk them corroding and contaminating your tank. You wouldn't happen to know the picth of those would you?

D.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7100329#post7100329 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by yourfishman
Black71gp
from what i gathered form Hanhmister the 802 dose not need a center brace.
it also makes no start up noise. it also dosent need a defferent shaft. the stopper is what i dont get. i guess it is just a piece glued to the side of the housing.


Frunkster got it.
hey Frunkster, did you compare the 802 to the 1200?

did you try the 2 blade compared to your three blade?

Yes there is no start up noise & from what I can see (by eye) the prop does not pop out when in reverse (mostly starts in reverse to :( ), which has me a bit stumped regarding a stopper device, where is Hanhmister when we need him lol

I made a big bodge job on the mag prop joint & can't take it apart now (super glued) but I have learned from my mistake & should be getting some more 802's S/H today/tomorrow ;)

So I will do some shots of the prop broken down, as I mentioned I have used carbon fiber tent poles or solid rigid plastic bar for the propeller shaft (no inner one) I will take the prop out & photograph it for you ;)

I would recommend you lot try using the titanium shafts for the Maxi jet's as the will not wear out easily & are a tighter fit than SS but still loose enough.

I have only just started to DIY these so yourfishman I have not tested with a double propeller yet or compared to a Maxi jet 1200 as I can't get the one I got sent over to work due to the power issues (see earlier post) but it will work on a 750 (it has a Dumas 1.25 on it I think?) & in comparison the 802 just blows it TOTALLY out of the window (like 6x the flow easy, more like 10x - easily beats a 6100 tunze hands down, may be 2):lol:

HTH
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7100227#post7100227 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Frunkster
Thank you by Black71gp ;)

No center brace is needed seeing as it's a fixed shaft pump & no there is no discernible wobble, it self centers due to the shaft, presuming you get a clean straight connection between the mag & prop assembly.

I can't get any of my stopper to work:confused: I think it's due to the fact that I'm using 3bladed propellers, does any one have any experience with these?, the flow however is "Mental mental chicken oriental":D

I tested it against some Tunze 6100's & boy it rock's, both the lfs & the friends tanks I have put them in went cloudy in seconds with the amount of detritus it stirred up, they were all a bit:mad2: but I was real:D considering they are all 200 imperial gallons + tanks all with at least 3 Tunze 6100's running Muharrar

I can get the 3 bladed props here easy from a local model shop (send some over if anyone wants?), but I think it's these that are disabling the stopper (if it's not one thing it's another lol)

The big UN has been running for 12hrs plus in my sump vat & the micro the same in my frag tank, with no audible noise what so ever:rollface: I will take some photos & add them to my gallery;)

I have the same question as Roland, why do you think you need a stopper? You have never described once that it ever ran backwards which is what a stopper for.

According to earlier posts, the Aquaclear fixed shaft pump is self-correcting when the prop turns backwards and the magnet will not fly out. Can you confirm this?
 
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