The "How to go Barebottom thread."

So the SPS absorb po4 that may be bound up in your rock? Wow! I hope that is not true! How should I be attaching the corals to my rock then?

Thanks.
 
An sps skeleton is the same composition as live rock. Just as live rock can wick up PO4 from dirty sand an sps skeleton can wick up PO4 from live rock. As long as you put some kind of barrier(ie superglue, epoxy or both)between them that should prevent this from happening.
Chris
 
SeanT said:
To be honest...if you put. say, an encrusted blue tort in a 'cooking' tub it would die.
Some of the hardier, nutrient dependant corals will survive like 'shrooms, but even the Montipora difitata's that encrusted some of my rocks I 'cooked' bit the bullet in a week or two.
This is just MY experience though.

Sean
Click to expand...

When I had a tank crash a couple years ago I left all of my rock in the dark for about 6 weeks in hopes of getting rid of some nuisance algae that was plaguing me. I had broken off all coral heads from the rocks but there were still some pieces of the bases left on the rock. As far as I knew, I thought all the corals were dead from the crash already. Apparently, there wer a couple small pieces of digitata on some of the rocks. Not only did the digitata survive the crash, it also survived 6 weeks in the dark. So did the red turf algae I was trying to get rid of.:(

Keep in mind, this rock was not cooking. It was simply left in my dsb tank with the lights off and a black sheet over the tank for the time period. So the stuff that lived was probably able to survive off the nutrients in the water. If I had actually cooked it for 6 weeks it probably would have been a different story.
 
Question on Starboard/HDPE

Question on Starboard/HDPE

I am purchasing a 1.5" thick sheet of Starboard for my 400 gallon tank and I am curious how much of a gap are all of you leaving in the Starboard relative to your inside the tank dimensions. The manufacturer of Starboard said that there will be no water adsorption causing expansion and that the only expansion 'may' be due to temperature changes, which are minimal if at all. Based on this, I plan on using a 1/8" gap. Anyone else have experience or ideas they are willing to share on this?
 
brent's right. leave room for the silicone. This gap is also perfect for catching accumulated detritus. Easier to siphon out!
 
tank is empty, sand is gone, how do I remove coraline off the walls without scratching glass? No water in tank right now
 
ezhoops said:
how do I remove coraline off the walls without scratching glass? No water in tank right now
Click to expand...

I saw a thread about the Dawn Power dish brush being used to remove coraline. I got one and used it on my acrylic tank and the thing works like a dream. But my tank is full of water. I think you would have to use it wet.
 
Plastic paint scraper with razor blade from Home Depot and Lowe's works great.

I use those in my running tank as well.
Just remember to remove blade, rinse with fresh water and pat dry when you are done or they will rust fast.

hth,
Sean
 
hey guys, i am rebuilding my 90 g tank after serious hair algae problems from my ssb. I am using starboard as my base and have a question about the returns for the closed loop.

i have a dart pump under the tank, the overflow box is in the left hand corner of the tank.

i have had the tank drilled for the pump pick-up and for a spray bar which will run the complete length of the tank at the back. i will have two more returns from the dart (with eductors, maybe) which will come up over the tank back.

What i am wondering is where to put the two other returns from the dart? ie the 2 back corners facing front middle or the middle back facing the two outside corners or the middle of the two ends facing each other.

Thanx much appreciated.
 
ezhoops said:
tank is empty, sand is gone, how do I remove coraline off the walls without scratching glass? No water in tank right now
Click to expand...
You can clean one side of the tank at a time by laying the tank on its side, and pour white vinegar over the coraline. After about 30 min, it will scrape off very easily using a plastic scraper or credit card. The vinegar will loosen up most stubborn coraline. Rinse & repeat for each side of the tank.
 
Konadog, great tip I always forget about the vinegar trick. Awesome, I cannot wait to get my tank up and running again.
 
not for nothing but vinegar didn't work (left it on a soaked rag overnight) with the corraline that was on the overflows of the tank I purchased.. I used diluted muriatic acid..
 
Seeing how this is the how-to thread I figure I'll ask here before I post my own thread..

Where is a good place to order official Astreas and Ceriths snails? (thanks SeanT for keeping the types of snails in your sig for an easy cut & paste)

Also...

What is the rule of thumb concerning them? How many per gallon, what ratio, when to replace?
 
steve.bridges said:
hey guys, i am rebuilding my 90 g tank after serious hair algae problems from my ssb. I am using starboard as my base and have a question about the returns for the closed loop.

i have a dart pump under the tank, the overflow box is in the left hand corner of the tank.

i have had the tank drilled for the pump pick-up and for a spray bar which will run the complete length of the tank at the back. i will have two more returns from the dart (with eductors, maybe) which will come up over the tank back.

What i am wondering is where to put the two other returns from the dart? ie the 2 back corners facing front middle or the middle back facing the two outside corners or the middle of the two ends facing each other.

Thanx much appreciated.
Click to expand...


Did i post this in the wrong thread?
 
steve.bridges said:
Did i post this in the wrong thread?
Click to expand...
I don't think so, it's just that it's a personal preference thing. Think about how you are going to stock your tank and what your flow patterns may do.
Something to think about is if your overflow is in the middle, I would put them at the ends dumping to the front middle. If your overflow is on the ends (like yours) then put them in the middle dumping to the front corners. This may help keep things flowing to the overflows better.
 
NoSchwag said:
Where is a good place to order official Astreas and Ceriths snails? (thanks SeanT for keeping the types of snails in your sig for an easy cut & paste)
What is the rule of thumb concerning them? How many per gallon, what ratio, when to replace?
Click to expand...
Depending on the amount ordered...www.keyscritters.com has the best prices.
Some places offer free shipping over a certain $ amount though.

I go 2 Cerith's per 1 Astrea.
And 1 astrea per 2 gallons to start with.

Sean
 
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