The "How to go Barebottom thread."

what kind of rubbermaid? Ive been using one for 8 months and its not couldy...

I bet it just "left overs" from the sand of the rock.
 
but it was there before I put my rock in.. My rocks are cooked and very clean. I can point my penductors at them and all that comes out is bubbles.
 
WEATHERMAN:

So you put your skimmer in your tank?? Or just the pump that runs into it? Problem is, my sump was modified with a hole in it for the pump to go into the skimmer which sits outside the sump...sounds like a great idea though...wish i could try it.
 
I think running your skimmer "wet" means that you restrict the outflow of your skimmer, so that it pulls "wetter" skimate out of the water. This means you will take out organics sooner. It is how you are suggested to run your skimmer in a BB system.
 
topmav1 said:
WEATHERMAN:

So you put your skimmer in your tank?? Or just the pump that runs into it? Problem is, my sump was modified with a hole in it for the pump to go into the skimmer which sits outside the sump...sounds like a great idea though...wish i could try it.
Click to expand...

Just crank that little red knob so bubbles and water are flowing over the top of the skimmer neck and out through the drain tube.

Once the water's clear, I dial it back.

Skimmer.jpg
 
Weatherman:

I have a Berlin XL classic model for up to 250 gal. I have a 46 gal by the way. I have my overflow draining into the sump section where the Quiet One pump is for the skimmer. I dont have any dials on my pump or skimmer to my knowledge. Just a pump connected to the skimmer which sits outside the sump. Sorry I sound ignorant but please try and explain more so I can try this.

thanks a lot.
 
The skimmer, shown in the picture above, is a Precision Marine Bullet-3. Itââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s a beckett skimmer where the water level in the skimmer is controlled by a gatevalve. The red knob opens and closes the gate valve, which allows me to quickly change the height of the water in the skimmer.

I have EuroReef skimmers on my other two tanks. On those skimmers, water level is controlled by raising and lowering a riser pipe. I already have my risers set on the highest level with PVC pipe extensions lifting the water even higher, so I canââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t use those skimmers to perform water changes (at least not with the current pipes and valves).

Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢ve never used any other type of skimmer, so I donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t know how water levels are controlled in other models. But the idea is to somehow get the water level in the skimmer high enough so both bubbles and water are flowing over the top of the neck and into the collection cup. And then lower the water level when you are done with your water change.
 
Thank you for the help. If anyone has a Berlin and knows how to skim wet, please let me know. I can really use all the help I can get as I am sure many others with cyano can. I just added to Maxijet 900's...crossing my fingers...
 
i just received my starboard today and it wont stay on the bottom of the tank. is there a way to sit on the bottom or just the weight of the LR that does it?
 
socal1 said:
i just received my starboard today and it wont stay on the bottom of the tank. is there a way to sit on the bottom or just the weight of the LR that does it?
Click to expand...

HDPE plastic (starboard, MarinaBoard, cutting board) is buoyant. The only way to get it to stay on the bottom is to attach it with silicone or weigh it down with rock.
 
CraigsReef said:
Just a quick question but if your running BB do you no longer need dsb or mud in your fuge?
Click to expand...

Dump it all or you'll end up with a Nitrate factory like mine was. I too wanted the apparent best of both worlds and it didn't work. Unless your fuge is as big or bigger than your display, it will be undersized and unable to handle the bioload of your tank. Oh yeah, don't worry about your pod and mysid population in your fuge, they'll come back even in a bare bottom fuge (I was worried about reducing my natural food for my reef ).

Go BB in your display and Fuge (Some on the board say you don't need a fuge but I like keeping Chaeto for PO4 and other nutrient uptake..)

I have a 90 and have (02) Seio 1500's on the bottom keeping things suspended and eventually to my overflow plumbed directly to my Deltec AP600 and fuge.. It works great! 3 months later and still undetectable Nitrates on my test kit :)
 
great comprehensive thread for newbies like myself. Lost me right in the beginning with the starboard stuff for the bottom. Whats its purpose? why can't the bottom be just the glass tank bottom?
 
Starboard is often used so that a rock fall won't crack the tank [esp on big tanks with big LR pieces].

Along with that, the white starboard is quite reflective and will allow some of the undersides of stuff get a little more light.
 
Mark,
Thanks for the reply. Sorry if this is a FAQ But what does it look like and where do I get it? I may have to redo my BB 180. Thanks Murph
 
I am going to be setting up a new sump with my BB tank and need help with it.

I know that it is very important in a BB tank to have a place for the detritus to settle in the sump. I also know that I want my input for my MR2 skimmer to be in that part of the sump and the return for my skimmer will be going into the 3rd part of my sump.

The dimensions of the sump need to be squareish to take up 1/2 of my stand. I want them to be 20" X 16" X 16" (L X W X H)

What I don't know is how far my baffles need to be apart from each other, how many baffles I need, and how low to the bottom they need to be.

I know Bomber said that the first 2 baffles need to be closer to each other with the first one sucking water from the bottom, so my drawing reflects that. But I'm not sure how close they need to be??

And one last thing... I know that I need the pump return area to be larger so that I have more lee way for the water that evaporates out of the tank, it will go for a longer time without the sump running dry. My question here is should that last baffle have water flowing over it?

Thanks for any help :)
 
I am finally taking the plunge. I'm going to cook my rocks, and then set up my tank at my Dad's. Starting "new" with all the equipment, rocks, and animals. So just making it better :)

I do have a couple questions.

When cooking the rock, what is used for biological filtration on the main tank? Since all the sand is gone, and all the rock is cooking (in my scenario), what will be the biological filtration? Should I throw some sponges in there now to absorb the good bacteria, and leave those in the main tank while "cooking?"

Also, my new system will be two 20L display tanks connected to a 150g Rubbermaid stock tank "refugium." This will just basically be a xenia/anthelia farm. Will this take away from the BB benefits? I've read not to run a fuge in BB setups, but this isn't technically a fuge.

Thanks for taking the time to write all this, it's really helpful!

Tyler
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
Phosphate flow out of live rock
Replies
0
Views
94
SantaMonica
S
S
Nutrient Export
Replies
0
Views
70
SantaMonica
S
R
Is it aiptasia or maybe hydroids?
Replies
3
Views
117
griss
griss
Lebowski_
Why do SPS need "aged" tanks?
Replies
5
Views
421
shred5
shred5
Brian60077
Be patient, wait, and do not rush to add things ???
Replies
11
Views
286
Brian60077
Brian60077
Back
Top