The "How to go Barebottom thread."

[kaskiles]

Can you guys verify these are the main keys to bare bottom SPS tank success:
1. 'cooked' live rock
2. rock/coral legs/tables/lifters (allow flow to sweep bottom)
3. high volume, erratic, turbulent display tank flow
4. filter sock (quickly remove suspended detritus)
5. high turnover, wet skimming (remove organics early)
6. weekly rock/coral blow off
7. periodic water changes
?

Were there anymore absolutely necessary things; like Kalkwasser or activated carbon?

Thanks.

 

[prodman]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13196577#post13196577 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SeanT
Prodman,
I would keep going until there is neither algae nor dirty water from swishing.
Sean

Thats what I thought you would say. Now that my new tank has arrived its a bit harder to wait. But I know its worth it.

 

[trueblackpercula]

kaskiles
Can you guys verify these are the main keys to bare bottom SPS tank success:
1. 'cooked' live rock
yes and no
2. rock/coral legs/tables/lifters (allow flow to sweep bottom)
detrituis will still settle down no matter what but they will help in suspending the detritius.
3. high volume, erratic, turbulent display tank flow
good in any tank including barebottom
4. filter sock (quickly remove suspended detritus)
filter socks are only affective if cleaned every couple of days.
5. high turnover, wet skimming (remove organics early)
yes this helps
6. weekly rock/coral blow off
is not needed if you have lots of flow
7. periodic water change
A must in any tank

Michael

 

[SWINGRRRR]

I have 2 questions. Does anyone still run carbon and Phosban on BB? And what would the ideal sump/fuge set-up be?

I know noone uses a true fuge or DSB in this situation, but can you elude to what my sump should look like compartment wise.

I am planning a 135 BB, 40L sump, Dart CL, MSX200. I have a build thread.

I did skim the post, but I dont have enough work hours in the day to read all 33 pages.

 

[reefrick.M]

For what it's worth I run a RDSB, carbon and a GFO reactor. I also dose Vodka/Rf-Fuel and ZeoBak a couple of times a week.

 

[SWINGRRRR]

I was going with a large middle chamber for a DSB in my fuge, much like a traditional fuge, sand, rocks, cheato. My Cheato does not grow at all in my current set-up and I have no un-manageable algae problems. I am wondering if I should just ditch the Cheato in the new tank and fill that compartment with extra LR.

I guess the reactors stay then. Thanks reefrick

 

[skippyreef]

I started the cooking my rock today and have been removing my sand bed (it is almost gone). Getting ready to embark on the ULNS approach

 

[rpeeples]

This could have been posted in this huge thread but can some folks recommend the types of surfaces used for the barebottom and width recommendation (i.e. 1/4" , 3/8", 1/2", etc ?)

Also wondering what the technical names of the surfaces used on the barebottom and how the barebottom is attached to already existing glass.

Thanks

 

[fishnugget]

Sean, Great info in this thread. I have a 220 that I emptied a year ago do to major aptisia and phosphate issues causing havoc with my tank.

Got rid of alot and moved the rest to a 90. Still have phosphate and aptisia issues as well as mojano. Phosphates under some control with GFO- Phosar HC. Have not atempted peppermint shrimp.

I went bare bottom a year ago when I switched. Have had same minimual success keeping sps & lps. Leathers still grow like crazy.
Zoos not doing as well. Really want aspectacular lps/sps tank with bright colors. Thinking of redoing 90 to see if I can succeed before I convert back to 220.

Uisng 2 Tunze 6100 w/ controller. Ocean runner 2500 as return pump. 2 14k Phoenix 250 DE in lumenix3 reflectors. Octo NS150 skimmer with mesh mod. Phosban reactor. If i go and cook rock, will this eliminate need for phosban reactor or will phosphates and aptisias come back?

If I remove all rock @110 lbs, dos this not effect the biology? How will the fish & corals survive? Do I need to add something during this period? Additive etc? I am really confused. I also have lr in sump.

I am trying to have sucess in this system so I can justify going back to my 220.

 

[trueblackpercula]

Yes it will be a poblem for sure on the bio load. try and keep the sand bed around until the rocks are cooked.
this is a tough question to answer...........maybe its better to start over fresh or have someone you trust keep the corals and fish until you are set up again.

Michael

 

[fishnugget]

There is no sand bed

 

[trueblackpercula]

No what I am saying is set up a rdsb to build up a bio load and then cook the rocks. Live sand is easy to come by theses days and it can be discarded after you set the tank back up with the cooked rock.

Michael

 

[fishnugget]

Could you explain what RDSB is? I have no idea

 

[trueblackpercula]

Its a remote deep sand bed...........I will try and get you some information through PM as i do not want to Hijack this great thread with sand beds

Michael

 

[trueblackpercula]

you got a PM

 

[Tanksalot91]

Ok I will start off by saying great thread, I am cooking my rock as I write this. Now my first try at a BB tank was not thought out as well as it should have been. So I have to ask you guys what type of water movement methods are you using. I am having a hard time deciding between Tunze or an Oceans motions system. I know both are great options so I would like some feedback on the pros and cons of each system. My tank is an AGA 90 gal. The tank is not drilled which is why I initially opted for the Tunze. But I would like to see some details on how some of you are keeping your tanks so clean.

 

[sherm71tank]

Not one of your options but I use 3 X Vortech MP40W + about 500 GPH return pump. I run them in Reef Crest or a combination of Reef Crest and Pulse mode. Tank is a 90.

 

[Tanksalot91]

I was looking into Vortech pumps also, I just forgot to mention it. I am not familiar with how these pumps work. Is it similar to the Tunze where a controller makes it pulse or change modes? Also where do you have the pumps located? Up top on bottom or both?

 

[sherm71tank]

They have a controller for a few different modes and all can be controlled from one unit. I have two of them on the bottom, one in the left front blowing across the front of the tank and one in the right rear for across the back of the rockwork. The third pump is in the top 1/4 of the right side tank wall about 1/2 way in to get the detritus to the overflow and filtration equipment..

 

[kaskiles]

The main advantage to the Vortech's is that the motor is out of the water so there is less heat, and no cord going into the tank (pain if you have euro bracing or acrylic tank lips).

The Tunze's can be tied into the Neptune aquarium controllers, while the Vortech's have their own controller. The Vortech controller has memory for only Night mode (50% of day speed). If the power goes out, you need to reset your night mode. You can plug the Vortech power into a timer, but this will totally stop the propeller instead of slowing it way down. You need 3 inches opposite of the Vortech, on the outside of the tank, so if your tank is close to walls, or if your stand has a full bottom, you might not be able to place it where you want to...