The official WP40 running on controller thread.

O

octopus737

New member
This thread is needed to clarify all the modding being done. 99 pages of useful information is too scattered. Lets see pics and videos of what you are running. Settings and coding is also important to share. Let this be a collective of information only to be used to mod the WP40. Apex, RA and any other controller can be used from what i have read.

Good luck and happy modding.
 
If i posted this in the wrong location please move it to DIY. Do not mention any links not allowed by RC in order to keep integrity of this thread.
 
I have an Apex controller and will probably wire my two wp40s up to it soon. I want to have more control over the stock jebao controller. Else mode is ok and all, but I would much rather make my own profiles like for tunze pumps. I will lose the random of 'else', but it doesnt seem so random to begin with. The two wp40s when switched off at the power strip and back on sync up perfectly with the same rise and falls in else mode. This means its not really random. The following is how I plan on hooking up the pumps up much like tunzes.

First off you need to understand the pump's wiring and how it works. There are 3 wires +24vdc, ground, and 0-5v analog signal. You can hook the apex's 0-10v wire directly to the pump, but you have to keep your coding at 50% or less.

An accidental 10v signal may ruin the pump. I will just wire in an inexpensive voltage divider aka two resistors. If you wire in on the 0-10v line two resistors of the same resistance value in series, the voltage reading from between the two resistors will be cut in half. This will effectively cut a 10v signal down to 5v max and will scale with every voltage value in between.

I will probably sketch up a couple of ghetto schematics to post later. Basically what will be done is remove the stock controller and stash it. The connector issue will have to be done based on how you want to do it via hard wire, salvaging from controller, or sourcing matching ones to make a simple patch harness. The basics here that I will explain is just where each wire needs to go.

+24vdc and dc ground will come from the stock power brick that came with the wp40.

Two of the same resistors (I will use 2x 1k ohm) will need to be wired in series to the end of the apex positive 0-10v signal wire. The end of the second resistor will go to dc ground of the power brick. The apex signal ground will need to also go to the dc ground of the power brick. This creates the voltage divider loop that cuts voltage in half between the two resistors. Now a wire that connects between the two resistors will need to go to the pump's va analog 0-5v signal input wire.

That should be it. How you do it is up to you, provided all the wires go where they need to go. It should be fairly inexpensive if you do not mind voiding the warranty and salvaging connectors and resistors from the controller itself.
 
Apex-WP40.jpg


Here is my ghetto schematic as promised. I have no specifics on wire colors coming from the pump side as I have not hooked up my multimeter to it to find out. I know from the Jebao controller side of the unit, the light blue wire is negative ground (-24v), reddish/orange/brown wire is positive (+24v), and the remaining third wire is the va signal wire to the pump. Simply test the 3 wires with a multimeter and label them before starting any wiring or splices.
 
is it able to be controllable by profilux ?

it should be renamed also W25/WP40 once WP25 is available then
 
Profilux controlled

Profilux controlled

chercm said:
is it able to be controllable by profilux ?

it should be renamed also W25/WP40 once WP25 is available then
Click to expand...

Yes, I have done it.
Evg card


Components all tucked away inside.





If you need more details let me know.
 
Looks good.. I have an EVG card sitting here on my desk. Was going to use it on my 2 diy led's but might grab 2 of these 25's and replace my mp20's and use the card for the pumps in my 60 cube HMMMM....
 
Profilux

Profilux

nanotank said:
Looks good.. I have an EVG card sitting here on my desk. Was going to use it on my 2 diy led's but might grab 2 of these 25's and replace my mp20's and use the card for the pumps in my 60 cube HMMMM....
Click to expand...

So don't forget, the pumps run on 5 volt, so easy enough to change that up.


Here is a crappy wire drawing, if you need more, lmk, and I can get a few more pics up.


Nice thing is, I can switch out a pump if need be in literally 2 minutes.
 
I have it now wired up to my apex as per my silly wiring diagram posted above. I have profiles setup for 40%-100% by every 10% increments for each powerhead (left and right). I have it set where every 30 minutes, my tank will switch to 100% for 30 minutes, then switch to a randomly chosen profile for another 30 minutes etc. By random, I mean I rolled a dice as I programmed it in.

The motor doesnt always spin when programmed below 20% power. I have night mode at 35% 16 second long pulse, and 20% 4 second off pulse. My tank is 8ft long, so it takes a long time for a low powered current to reach the other half of the tank.

Then there is the feed mode profile which is a simple 65%/20% profile.

The main reason I got rid of the stock Jebao controller is because of night time and feed mode. I like to have the powerheads on during feeding but not insanely hard. It helps give every fish a chance to get a share without skirmishing with the 13" naso tang. It also helps to keep the cyclop-eeze moving, since my anthias do not like still food.

I was thinking as a touch of randomness, I might be able to switch the variable profile to a weather profile meant for lighting. The cloudy effects will cause a random rise and fall of powerhead output, and the lightning can be the burst current to help kick up detritus. It would be nicer if Apex added a random check box to their pump profile setup.
 
ItzGenX said:
Apex-WP40.jpg


Here is my ghetto schematic as promised. I have no specifics on wire colors coming from the pump side as I have not hooked up my multimeter to it to find out. I know from the Jebao controller side of the unit, the light blue wire is negative ground (-24v), reddish/orange/brown wire is positive (+24v), and the remaining third wire is the va signal wire to the pump. Simply test the 3 wires with a multimeter and label them before starting any wiring or splices.
Click to expand...

So you have 2 resistors on the 0-10v line from the apex?
 
Could someone explain this to me, please? Is there circuitry in the pump itself? Does the analog signal vary the voltage to the pump, or the current?
 
Jewlover said:
So you have 2 resistors on the 0-10v line from the apex?
Click to expand...

Yes that is correct. If you take two resistors of the same resistance value and place them in series, the voltage between the two resistors will be cut in half from the original voltage. It's a very simple voltage divider loop.

You do not have to have the voltage divider in the wiring if you just keep the apex programming below 50%. I like to have piece of mind just in case the apex somehow wipes out all programming and defaults to a 10 volt output. Also, if you switch the variable control from "Auto" to "On" in the apex software, the output voltage will go to max, aka 10 volts.
 
Last edited:
HippieSmell said:
So, all that's needed is a 0-5V analog signal directly to the pump?

Could someone explain this to me, please? Is there circuitry in the pump itself? Does the analog signal vary the voltage to the pump, or the current?
Click to expand...

Yes your assumption is correct. The pump has a 1-5 volt speed driver built into the motor housing.

1 volt = 20% speed
5 volt = 100% speed

Anything less than 1 volt will turn the pump completely off.
 
Subbed to this as I ordered 2 WP40's and am gettin a RA once my 150 peninsula sells. I will be buying the pre made wire's for both pumps from RA but would love to see what others and RA users are doing with them. hopefully this doesn't turn into the other threads.

Please just let this one be what it was intended to be.
 
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